Get rid of points

[1911a1]

For some reason the distributor in my 1974 Duster 318 is a points type. Maybe because it was retrofitted with a 318 from a slant 6.

From my research so far I found out the pro form Mopar kit is junk. I also don’t want to spend 400$ plus right now on the good ignition

I’m leaning toward the HEI module upgrade. My question is could I buy a parts store Mopar electronic distributor say for a 1970s up Dodge truck? And are all parts store distributors the same or is there one brand better than the others?

Thanks!

 

[Dartsun]

I've had electronic distributors I've bought from the parts store for 20$ and they worked just fine. Just on a mostly stock 273 65 dart. Order one for a 1973 and up vehicle.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Points ignitions work very well as long as everything is in good shape and tuned properly.

 

[junkyardhero]

i like the kits that Rick E sells on ebay.

Pardon Our Interruption...

good quality parts, all the bits to do the conversion and a one stop shop

 

[Bewy]

The HEI upgrade is a great upgrade. It has more features than the Chrys elec ign [ variable dwell, hotter spark capability ] & less connection points......which means less connections to corrode or come loose. If you use an E core coil such as the MSD #8207, you do NOT need a bal res. You can run 0.060" plug gaps with this; most canister coils will require a bal res & are not as efficient.

Very easy to set up & cheap also. You will find pics on the web or maybe a member will chime in with a pic.

 

[autoxcuda]

Keep it simple and just buy a parts store 1974 electronic ignition.

The HEI and small block is a mess. The HEI cap is too big for rear mounted distributor.

 

[George Jets]

☆☆☆☆☆

 

[Icetech]

I know it's not the question.. but i would keep the points.. keep a spare set in the glovebox and drive it 200k miles.. points work great.

That being said.. i have a pertronix unit in my car, it works fine and no extra wiring or anything (i do keep the old points dist in the trunk, just in case)

 

[MadScientistMat]

Easy way to go from points to electric is a Pertonix. Bolts into your distributor as easy as changing points, and you could throw the points in the glove box as a back up.

 

[toolmanmike]

Easy way to go from points to electric is a Pertonix. Bolts into your distributor as easy as changing points, and you could throw the points in the glove box as a back up.

This! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[Professor Fate]

For some reason the distributor in my 1974 Duster 318 is a points type. Maybe because it was retrofitted with a 318 from a slant 6.

From my research so far I found out the pro form Mopar kit is junk. I also don’t want to spend 400$ plus right now on the good ignition

I’m leaning toward the HEI module upgrade. My question is could I buy a parts store Mopar electronic distributor say for a 1970s up Dodge truck? And are all parts store distributors the same or is there one brand better than the others?

Thanks!

It all depends on what's remaining in your car of the original wiring and ignition; ie how the points ignition was grafted in.
If the electronic wiring/ballast/ECU are still present and accounted for, then yes you should be able to plop in a factory-type electronic distributor with minimal effort.
If the harness has been hacked/cut up/overly modified in order to accommodate the points distributor; you can either keep the points, add the commonly available factory-style electronic conversion kit, or go for something like the MSD ready-to-run (RTR) distributors (please, avoid the EBay/Amazon el cheapo RTR distributors at all costs).
If you're really sold on an HEI ignition for your car, don't get the full HEI distributor due to potential clearance issues. Instead, do the HEI conversion to the stock Chrysler electronic distributor- LOTS of threads on how to do this- just do a search in the electrical and ignition section.
As far as a parts store distributor, they all seem to be pretty much the same now. Doesn't matter if it's for a 'Cuda 340 or a truck 318, you end up with the same part number, ignition curve and vacuum cannister differences be damned. And one brand doesn't seem to be any different from the other.

 

[Heywodja]

Have you considered a Pertronix or FBO ignition?

I have used pertronics on a few vehicles, always works well, easy 2 wire install, and is ready to run out of the box, the ignition module is inside the distributor so it cleans up the engine bay a little. They sell complete ready to run, distributors or modules to upgrade your point ignition to an electronic. Keeping the stock look


The FBO setup is also very nice, it uses a separate ignition module that mounts on the firewall or inner fenders, very similar to the Chrysler unit.
Mopar Distributors and Ignition Controls for Street-Strip-Motorhomes

 

[RustyRatRod]

Another option that's seldom talked about is the Blueprint Engines ignition systems. They offer MSD style ready to run billet distributors and e core coils.

 

[Mattax]

A. Post some photos wo we're not guessing what is under the hood now.
B. Do you have tachometer and a timing light? You need these to know where it is set now, and you'll need them to set whatever you change to. And a golf tee.

 

[toolmanmike]

For a stock or mild engine, points works fine as long as you use good parts (que Halifaxhops) For convenience to get rid of the points, a Pertronix unit works well. Mopar electronic may be a step up but those quality parts are getting harder to find. GM HEI conversions seem quite popular nowdays and with quality parts, they should be dependable. Another plus is they run with 12 volts and don't need a ballast resistor. I would reserve MSD or similar systems for high performance and race engines although because of the hot output and multi spark, you may see a slight improvement in preformance or mileage on a mild engine.

Has anyone ever done any dyno testing between the systems? It would be interesting to see the differences if any.

 

[RustyRatRod]

i like the kits that Rick E sells on ebay.

Pardon Our Interruption...

good quality parts, all the bits to do the conversion and a one stop shop

Also, those "Hi Rev 7500" ignition boxes that he sells are a lot better than previously thought. I sent one to @Newbomb Turk for extended testing and turns out they are really good boxes, even though they sport the "fake" transistor everyone complains about. Those boxes are advertised to be 100% made in USA, so maybe they are.

 

[RustyRatRod]

For a stock or mild engine, points works fine as long as you use good parts (que Halifaxhops) For convenience to get rid of the points, a Pertronix unit works well. Mopar electronic may be a step up but those quality parts are getting harder to find. GM HEI conversions seem quite popular nowdays and with quality parts, they should be dependable. Another plus is they run with 12 volts and don't need a ballast resistor. I would reserve MSD or similar systems for high performance and race engines although because of the hot output and multi spark, you may see a slight improvement in preformance or mileage on a mild engine.

Has anyone ever done any dyno testing between the systems? It would be interesting to see the differences if any.

And I know you remember from being in the parts business that you USED to could get points in ALL domestic makes with high tension springs to eliminate point bounce at high RPM. A set of those coupled with a good hot coil, good loose curve nice wires and good plugs will rival electronic ignition. The only real disadvantage is that the points system has direct wear items in the rubbing block and distributor cam.

 

[MadScientistMat]

...even though they sport the "fake" transistor everyone complains about.

A real high voltage TO-3 transistor powerful enough to drive an ignition coil would cost as much as a Hi Rev ignition box. I don't know if anyone is prepared to spend that kind of money just to make a 1970s technology transistor work.

If it turns out there really are 50 people or so who would pay $150 each to avoid the fake transistor, I could set up pre-orders.

 

[RustyRatRod]

A real high voltage TO-3 transistor powerful enough to drive an ignition coil would cost as much as a Hi Rev ignition box. I don't know if anyone is prepared to spend that kind of money just to make a 1970s technology transistor work.

If it turns out there really are 50 people or so who would pay $150 each to avoid the fake transistor, I could set up pre-orders.

 

[cosgig]

I got a bunch of point stuff from Hops, and an electro is distributor for future changing. What did he say? “I would stick with the points”!

 

[Dartnut]

For some reason the distributor in my 1974 Duster 318 is a points type. Maybe because it was retrofitted with a 318 from a slant 6.

From my research so far I found out the pro form Mopar kit is junk. I also don’t want to spend 400$ plus right now on the good ignition

I’m leaning toward the HEI module upgrade. My question is could I buy a parts store Mopar electronic distributor say for a 1970s up Dodge truck? And are all parts store distributors the same or is there one brand better than the others?

Thanks!

The Pro Form on my 340 works really well.
And I haven't heard anything bad about them until now.
Just as a heads up to me (and perhaps others), what are the complaints generally about?

 

[413]

Points for the win. Clean and lube the cam, check and set the dwell, look at how much material is left on the contacts, drive on! They have a bad reputation from lazy people who never look under the cap.

If you are scared get a second one for the trunk, back running in minutes of needed. Test it and set it up first.

I've been stranded with Chrysler electronic 3 times over the years on different cars. Never walked with points!

 

[1911a1]

Here are some pics of the ignition parts and wiring on my 1974 Duster. there are several places I need to repair. The car will not start now. I set the floats which were of on the 1405 Edelbrock carb. The car was running rich and smocking when Idling after being revved up some.
Now it wont fire up. first time I traced it to the cup on that accelerator pump (what ever its called) coming off and not sealing.
But now I feel like its not firing. pretty sure its getting fuel and I checked that rubber cup and it was pretty much ok except for not being as round as I would like.
It was timed by the fellow I bought it from and it started very good before though the manual choke is not hooked up.
I bought a new coil today and plan to change that.

question what is that small box on the firewall below the ECU?

Note the sketchy Jumper on the ballast resister. Is that a mod to run the points are is something else burned up?

More phots coming for review.

Thanks!

 

[1911a1]

I did change the vacuumed advance hose to the timed port on the upper left

 

[1911a1]

More pics for comment. *** you can see I have a lot of wiring repair to do.

Thanks!