Going to take a crack at Index racing next year

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dusterbing the peace said:
Slightly more redneck approach, how bout you restrict air at the filter, instead of the throttle plates? Quick testing would be duct tape over part of it, then cutting a metal strip as a more use-able/easily removable primary killer, then trim the timing in your EFI table to fine tune. Basic example (numbers are made up), say you have a 3" tall, 14" dia. round filter. Tape off half of the circumference and see how much ET you kill...add or remove tape to get you in the ball park of where you want to be. Then cut a strip of sheet metal/aluminum/SS/unobtaneum/whatever to the height and length of tape you found that worked. Then like I said, pull timing to get the last few hundredths you need...as @SLOPAR72 mentioned you'll need lots of data to get the timing dialed in relative to weather. Then, when you're running your normal brackets you can pull the filter restriction and reload your primary tune. Maybe simply dropping filter height will restrict enough, or getting a restrictive paper type filter? Dunno...just throwing some ideas out.
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I remember that once the owner (RIP Dickie Allen) decided to throttle stop race the car never changed again. It was a budget deal and one thing we all learned is you need enough power to make a throttle stop work.... When I say work the biggest struggle outside of running mechanical injection was setting the car up to "like" the loading and unloading of the tires during a run...

Most people think it's boring and to most spectators it is. But to the guys who are really good at it they have done their homework....

JW
 
RockinRobin said:
Since I'm running EFI it would be a pain to swap to a carb for index 1 week, then back to EFI the next, then back to carb, etc. Intake is too tall for a 1" restrictor plate. The plates are allowed but no electronics. I haven't been able to find any bolt type throttle stop for the 4500 size Throttle body.
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Angle iron (obviously aluminum is preferred) off the rear drivers side tb hold down bolt, threaded hole, fine tread bolt and lock nut lined up with throttle linkage of carb/EFI.
 
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SLOPAR72 said:
I remember that once the owner (RIP Dickie Allen) decided to throttle stop race the car never changed again. It was a budget deal and one thing we all learned is you need enough power to make a throttle stop work.... When I say work the biggest struggle outside of running mechanical injection was setting the car up to "like" the loading and unloading of the tires during a run...

Most people think it's boring and to most spectators it is. But to the guys who are really good at it they have done their homework....

JW
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That is true like what is used in the Super categories, however those types of stops are adjusted by use of electronics and air , the air operates the unit and the electronics operate when the stop is activated via a timer. The throttle stops talked about here I believe are only adjusted by adjusting a bolt , plate ( as in the Willys setup ) or changing plates with different size holes to go faster or slower. I myself am working on a Biondo/ #1 Stop I purchased, it was operated with an electric solenoid since the electronic aspect isn't permitted in the classes I run I removed the solenoid and installed a spring to work as the solenoid did for keeping the blades open or closed. I like it because it also has a dial that has been indexed with numbers on it as well as a scale below the dial also numbered so it will be easy to adjust and keep records of my settings only problem is its two inches tall and I have to figure out how to fit it under my hood

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BVoelzke said:
What does your linkage look like to the efi? are you using a Mopar stock style throttle cable ? does your linkage attach to the refi unit like it does a Holley carb? if it is you might be able to use a bolt system similar to my setup. Mine basically just keeps the linkage on the throttle blades from opening all the way and I move the bolt in or out for faster or slower.
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Yes, straight mopar cable, attaches just like a carb.
So you have a 4500 style carburetor? That's great! All I have been able to find for bolt style is for 4150 carbs.
Where did you get yours?
 
33IMP said:
Angle iron (obviously aluminum is preferred) off the front drivers side tb hold down bolt, threaded hole, fine tread bolt and lock nut lined up with throttle linkage of carb/EFI.
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Made mine from 1/4 aluminum angle. Forgot to mention: drilled a hole through the angle and the carb base plate for a roll pin. It won't loosen the hold down bolt that way.....
Also, I drilled the hole and tapped it at an angle, so it was 90° to the carb throttle linkage.
(Had a low 11s car I wanted to run at the bottom of a 12 sec bracket. I like to chase.)
 
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33IMP said:
Made mine from 1/4 aluminum angle. Forgot to mention: drilled a hole through the angle and the carb base plate for a roll pin. It won't loosen the hold down bolt that way.....
Also, I drilled the hole and tapped it at an angle, so it was 90° to the carb throttle linkage.
(Had a low 11s car I wanted to run at the bottom of a 12 sec bracket. I like to chase.)
Click to expand...
Here is a picture of the Moroso one I use however mine is modified , the car is in my trailer I will take a picture of my set up for you tomorrow

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