Good Streetabe Power

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According to the net, the gt40 head is 145cc and flows about 190. Better than I remember. So if a 318 head is 124cc.. and flows 165-170 'in the sub .500 range' and porting to around the same 195 cfm ends up ime 195-205 cfm with stock 1.78...then bam.. same flow, more velocity.. small cam material with power throughout the entire rom band of idle to 5500
Totally doable for even a porting amateur that takes care to watch a bunch of youtube and removes port stock in the right areas. I know Charles servedio got 230-240cfm out of some 675 castings. He went through some sectioned 920 casting ports I cut up and sent him saying he could get 270 cfm with 2.02 intake valves.
 
Totally doable for even a porting amateur that takes care to watch a bunch of youtube and removes port stock in the right areas. I know Charles servedio got 230-240cfm out of some 675 castings. He went through some sectioned 920 casting ports I cut up and sent him saying he could get 270 cfm with 2.02 intake valves.
Absolutely.
I never went bigger than a 1.88 tulip..which is a terrible flow killer of a valve.. and after hearing about Charlie's ls1 valve experiment.. I tried the same and found the same numbers. Its nice when you can verify with your own hand n eye what's put out there , because sometimes you never know what's hot air and what's actually true.

The caveat is that your typical LS valve is way too short and you can't get a spring in that head. So it leaves you buying longer versions which cost quite a bit and you find yourself weighing the cost versus just better heads to begin with. The 1.89 valve is what I used to get 237 cfm out of a 302 head. The installed height however was in the 1.50's iirr being so short. 1.86 vs mopars 1.97, thats a huge difference. There are some that make .100 pop up retainers, like Manley.. but not sure if its for a 8mm valve stem of the ls1 1.89 fwiw
I really like the early 920 and 315?? I think. The earlier heads. The tulip 1.88 i used for a member here's 318 to 340 bore motor went 228cfm with those early 273 heads. Im a fan of them, really.
 
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There you go. Admission is the first step to rehabilitation. lol

Hello, my name is Matt and I'm a pot stirrer :)
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For those wondering about fixing that installed height issue with the ls valve and the Mopar Head. Let's explore ... say you find .100 pop up, Manley makes some, now you're in the typical mopar 1.65 installed height..limited to a 995 spring 'garbage' , or a hughes mag type drop in spring.
Say you cut .050 off the spring seat, use a +.050 lock set..or and a .050 retainer and end up 1.70/1.75.. still kinda limited on springs , but better.
Pioneer makes some good 1.75 solid flat/hyd roller duals. I use them.
Go price what .050 pop-up lock$ cost as well as +.050 retainer$
When I was 15 building Slants with stock length valves, trying to fit a good spring in there required the .050 pop-up retainer and back then they were $55 from Isky..they are now 155 bucks.
Its not cheap. So you kind of got to way the cost and effort against the end result/return. For some its worth it, for other maybe not.. and the rest its just neat to do regardless.
 
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Absolutely.
I never went bigger than a 1.88 tulip..which is a terrible flow killer of a valve.. and after hearing about Charlie's ls1 valve experiment.. I tried the same and found the same numbers. Its nice when you can verify with your own hand n eye what's put out there , because sometimes you never know what's hot air and what's actually true.

The caveat is that your typical LS valve is way too short and you can't get a spring in that head. So it leaves you buying longer versions which cost quite a bit and you find yourself weighing the cost versus just better heads to begin with. The 1.89 valve is what I used to get 237 cfm out of a 302 head. The installed height however was in the 1.50's iirr being so short. 1.86 vs mopars 1.97, thats a huge difference. There are some that make .100 pop up retainers, like Manley.. but not sure if its for a 8mm valve stem of the ls1 1.89 fwiw
I really like the early 920 and 315?? I think. The earlier heads. The tulip 1.88 i used for a member here's 318 to 340 bore motor went 228cfm with those early 273 heads. Im a fan of them, really.
228-237 cfm is pretty good a mild built engine carb intake cr and headers with a mild cam should be around 1.5-1.7 hp per cfm 340-400+ hp.

It's amazing what just a valve can do, seen Eric do a valve shoot out like 10 different ones but similar valves and some made a huge difference even with the same valve angles on them just a different brand.
 
Got to love these bench builds, comparing apples, oranges and Brand X.
What works for Brand X may not work for Ma Mopar.
 
Got to love these bench builds, comparing apples, oranges and Brand X.
What works for Brand X may not work for Ma Mopar.
Yes and No, Similar builds make similar power. Close enough especially for a street machine, maybe not for a highly competitive race class.
 
Very cool:steering:
that must have been a fun car.:thumbsup:
It was a blast to drive!! 3rd gear roll on burnouts, hanging onto the steering wheel as the car changes lanes on its own. Fun times for sure... And comments aplenty :thumbsup:
 
I had a normal Omni back the day, 2nd car 1st mopar, always wanted a GLH, I've toyed with the idea of building a clone with a turbo 3.6l mounted in the rear :)
Try finding a decent one now a days is close to non-existent... unless you want to pay a lot of $$
 
Here's the sbc 355 think same short block from the 1st video, upgraded heads to aftermarket aluminum and air gap made 323 hp with smog cam and 420 hp with xe268h 224 @ fifty similarly to the 302.

 
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