I yanked the wheel to the left about 30° as I power shifted 2nd in my CSX. It went straight, relatively.It was a blast to drive!! 3rd gear roll on burnouts, hanging onto the steering wheel as the car changes lanes on its own. Fun times for sure... And comments aplenty
I'm sure the engineers had a much more complicated formula, but 10° @ .050" for 42 cubic inches looks like a big jump. It's NOT.
If you separate, performance from non performance the latter has 22 degrees for a 122 cid spread and just slightly more 169 cid spread 273-440. And performance there's only 4 degrees for a 100 cid spread 340 vs 440.
If mopar made a high performance version of the 318 between 68-74 or so it probably would of came with more cr and a 340 top end including cam cause they would of used the parts they already had.
I gotcha, and somewhat agree that a large cids tends to handle a little more duration, I do believe it has a lot to do with port size and flow ratio to cid so if a 273 vs 340 vs 440 all are built with a similar port size/flow to cid ratio then all would need a similar amount of time (duration) to fill the cylinders at a given rpm.
But a 440 is 6-10 degrees more for another 80-100 cid, over 340/360 how does that fit ?
I'm referring to " bore size not cid. Let's work the math for a Hyd street HEMI
Why the focus on bore size ?
I'm a simpleton. This whole thread is about good streetable power. I use the simple factor with a street friendly LSA (110°-114°) to have good, streetable power. Is it perfect, no, but it works. Will it get the last available HP, no, but it works. There's gotta be a factor for stroke, rpm use, cylinder head type, cam base circle diameter, political party affiliation, etc.
It's a turbocharger in a bottle.
Depends on what you mean by "gearing it properly " Are you gearing it properly for a drag race or for a Street car that is driven on the interstate?
We already discussed this at length, one more time, obviously "gearing properly" is a vague term it's all depends by the situations, but most people realize a engine that makes similar power at higher rpm needs more gear (generally a smaller engine) so if geared properly (take advantage of each engines powerband) both should be able to put similar torque and hp per mph to the ground, obviously there's variables, and this usually leads to but "I'll just run deeper gears with the larger engine" but gears aren't magic they only allow the car put use of the engines power for the task. So whatever gear you run in a 375 hp 440 you can always run deeper in a 375 hp 318 cause it has more useable rpm.
It has everything to do with the potential performance of the vehicle the engine is in. When I have the conversation with a customer about how cubic inches will affect the potential performance of their vehicle vs cost and the gear they would like to use they will pretty much always choose more cubic inches within the family of engines they are using. To them it makes sense. Even this guy seems to agree.As for the highway has nothing to do with engines potential performance, for me I don't care about the highway you apparently do, that's a preference that you, not me, would have to design around if your worried about the highway run an O/D
Strawmanning again, obviously most pick displacement over rpm, you don't seem to understand potential, so what if most will pick the 440 over a 318, who cares if only one in a thousand would rather build a 318 it changes nothing about an engines potential, again never said it makes more sense or whatever to build smaller, just if you do it's possible to have similar performance, so can you stop strawmaning the argument.
Again there's a difference between an engines potential and which one fits the application better.
100%
That's where we disagree. If the two motors were of similar performance you wouldn't need a deeper gear and more converter to make them equal.
Yes. Two motors can run 12.00's in the quarter mile with a wide difference in stall and gear ratios. Even though they both run 12.0s their performance on the street can be very different. It matters to people who don't only drive their cars at race tracks.
I think I got loss here somewhere. A good street able car should be one that can be stopped at a reasonable distance to avoid a crash. Most of our older cars are no longer street able, due to all the new braking systems. If I recall correctly, back in the 60's a factory streetcar could not have more than 500HP. Due to braking systems now, I'm sure the HP can or should be raised. Roads are also better constructed today, which would allow I higher HP. I think "Street able" should go along with "Safety". Take the unsafe cars to the drag strip and even those have safety rules for a reason.
Street able in this thread only means idle, normal driving ability ain't too different from stocker, what most would find it reasonable, cause were using cylinder heads to build the power not stuffing overly large cams into a motor, kind of like stock LS and Gen 3 Hemi's etc.. make power.
Why your arguments are strawman, what's the difference running down the track or street other than traction, just cause I bring up track capability doesn't mean were talking about race cars, 1/4 1/8 mile 0 - 60, 0 -100 mph are measure of performance ability a car that's quicker on the track generally gonna be quicker in the streets. You want make an engines potential performance ability about other factors is why your stawmanning this.
