Guess what broke...... Centerforce Dual Friction + slicks

[skep419]

Took the Dart to the track Saturday (1969 GT 5.9 Magnum cam/springs, 2.66 A833, 3.91 8 3/4), first pass left gingerly went 8.5X something (don't have time slip in front of me). Second pass decided to try and leave off the 2 step at 4500 (set the pressures to 20psi) was hoping it was enough rpm and tire pressure to spin........ Didn't make a noise really, but every gear is now neutral. Plan on taking the trans out after work tonight, should have listened

 

[RustyRatRod]

Pinion shaft.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

This is my guess. The rear was not braced and the housing flexed and took out the ring and pinion.

 

[Dart Frog]

Super bummer.. hard to say hopefully it's not a big problem maybe you just lost the linkage rod I'm not sure if that would affect every gear. I I would leave at 4 k with my similar setup and 275 drag radials I know I was pushing my stuff but it held up for the most part . I did crack a clutch plate.

 

[TT5.9mag]

Any noises? Clutch hub?

 

[skep419]

My plan of attack is to get it up on jack stands throw it in gear and see if the driveshaft is turning (a buddy suggested to try and shift gears without the clutch and see if it grinds).
Didn't make much noise (when it broke or when I attempted to back it off the line)
Haven't tried it since.

 

[junkyardhero]

i'll take the under on the clutch hub and the over on an input or 1st gear

 

[Newbomb Turk]

I’m not surprised.

You can’t buy components that will handle that parts breaking clutch.

My suggestion is IF you are going to continue to do what you are doing, BUY A REAL CLUTCH.

If you think a real clutch is too much money, add up the costs you’ve already incurred and will continue to incur. The right clutch is cheap.

If not, at least buy a clutch tamer.

Or, continue on breaking parts because that’s what that clutch is good for.

 

[AJ/FormS]

May I ask what mph that pass was?

 

[Dan Brewer]

I would say the input shaft twisted a little more than this one did

 

[skep419]

Ran it through the gears up on Jack stands with no odd noises and the tires spinning away. Engaged the emergency brake and it still nothing.
Rear end seems fine (no odd noises while turning by hand). Still have to pull the side cover, also planning on swapping the 3.23’s back in (get a look at the gears/axles). Forgot to grab the time slip.

 

[skep419]

 

[skep419]

 

[mopar head]

Figure what blew yet?

 

[skep419]

Figure what blew yet?

Nope, it got late so I didn't get a chance to look at the internals.

 

[NC Engine Builder]

Check the side gear splines in your sure grip

 

[NC Engine Builder]

You will know it that's the issue as soon as you pull the axles

 

[Newbomb Turk]

Two things. I agree with NC Thats it’s probably rear axle related.

5hats still the clutch killing parts.

Two, I went to your YouTube channel (which BTW I can’t find this video in there for some reason) but I did see the short video of the two step switch.

From that video it looks like you have to move the pedal a long way before the switch clicks. That means you are loading the engine on the two step.

That’s very hard on the engine.

The two step should let the engine go as soon as your foot barely moves. As soon as the pedal starts up, you should hear the click.

I’ve seen several stick engines get beat to death doing it the way you have it.

Just my .02.

 

[Killer6]

Nope, it got late so I didn't get a chance to look at the internals.

I did a quick search of Your build, so You swapped in an 8.75" that had the perches moved in & LBP, those axles wouldn't happen to be a set of C-body axles shortened re-splined by Moser would they? If so, I'd have warned You not to use them with slicks &/a stick.

 

[Killer6]

You will know it that's the issue as soon as you pull the axles

Lol, if it's re-splined C-body axles, He'll know when they don't come out......around '92 We found that out the hard way!!!!

 

[skep419]

They are Yukon axles that I’ve already ripped up once

8 3/4 A body axle question

 

[cpearce]

I'm sorry this happened to your car.

I see a common trend of clutch companies over clutching peoples cars. I believe they do not want their clutch being the weak link in the chain so they sell you one way over capacity. I am in the process of swapping to an aluminum flywheel, aluminum driveshaft, Dana 60, and McLeod Borg Beck Long pressure plate with 2000lb static clamp load. With this PP I am using an organic disc. I had a McLeod twin disk RXT before and hated it. Was more of an on/off switch than a clutch.

This setup is NOT at all what any of the clutch companies recommend. Oddly enough it does come recommended by quite a few successful stick racers though.

Personally, if something is going to be consumed in the driveline, I'd prefer it to be the clutch, over time, rather than transmission, driveshaft or rear-end. Automatic cars have the benefit of cushion from the convertor on launch which stick cars don't, unless you build it into the equation.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

I'm sorry this happened to your car.

I see a common trend of clutch companies over clutching peoples cars. I believe they do not want their clutch being the weak link in the chain so they sell you one way over capacity. I am in the process of swapping to an aluminum flywheel, aluminum driveshaft, Dana 60, and McLeod Borg Beck Long pressure plate with 2000lb static clamp load. With this PP I am using an organic disc. I had a McLeod twin disk RXT before and hated it. Was more of an on/off switch than a clutch.

This setup is NOT at all what any of the clutch companies recommend. Oddly enough it does come recommended by quite a few successful stick racers though.

Personally, if something is going to be consumed in the driveline, I'd prefer it to be the clutch, over time, rather than transmission, driveshaft or rear-end. Automatic cars have the benefit of cushion from the convertor on launch which stick cars don't, unless you build it into the equation.

EXCELLENT POST.

 

[mbaird]

I'm sorry this happened to your car.

I see a common trend of clutch companies over clutching peoples cars. I believe they do not want their clutch being the weak link in the chain so they sell you one way over capacity. I am in the process of swapping to an aluminum flywheel, aluminum driveshaft, Dana 60, and McLeod Borg Beck Long pressure plate with 2000lb static clamp load. With this PP I am using an organic disc. I had a McLeod twin disk RXT before and hated it. Was more of an on/off switch than a clutch.

This setup is NOT at all what any of the clutch companies recommend. Oddly enough it does come recommended by quite a few successful stick racers though.

Personally, if something is going to be consumed in the driveline, I'd prefer it to be the clutch, over time, rather than transmission, driveshaft or rear-end. Automatic cars have the benefit of cushion from the convertor on launch which stick cars don't, unless you build it into the equation.

My RXT modulates nicely . Maybe I did something wrong? Lol

 

[perfacar]

cpearce good choice for a clutch, i ran that style for years, i changed to a softloc number of years ago, both have performed excellent