Hard start...

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TheGreenBastard

TheGreenBastard

The Green Bastard (Parts Unknown)
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So my 73 318 la 5.2 duster is hard to start. I just upgraded to a hei progressive ignition distributor. It has spark now but I literally have to hold in on start, like keep it on the starter and pump it with gas to get it to turn over. I know this is not sustainable as I will burn out the starter. Any thoughts or advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Gus and his green bastard ;)
 
I would guess you forgot to connect the bypass circuit to the run line. This is the wire from IGN2 on the key, often but not always brown, that connected to the coil side of the ballast resistor.

Get a meter. Connect to coil + and ground. Turn key to "run" position. See what voltage reads, which now that you have eliminated the ballast, ???? should be full battery voltage. YOU DID?? eliminate the ballast, right?

Now, watching meter, crank the engine with the key. Read the meter. If zero, the above is your problem. If you still have "same as battery" cranking voltage, then I don't know

DO YOU HAVE a service manual? If not, run over to MyMopar.com and download one, free. Some of us right here is why that and others are over there

The manual, page 8-154, bottom right terminal of the ballast, is J3-24BR, feeds to the coil positive, and goes off the page to the right

Then go to page 8-156, bottom left, find J3-18 BR coming in from off the page. Follow it up to "start and ignition switch." THAT IS INCORRECTLY drawn. It shows that wire going to the same terminal as the "start" wire, S2-12Y. They actually are separate contacts

When the key is in "start," the J3 wire comes alive, and the "ignition run" wire goes dead. The J3 wire, IGN2, is the ONLY power supply during cranking, to the ignition syustem
 
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Sounds like switching to progressive ign...was not that progressive. What is the ign source? A Chrys ECU, HEI module, ?
 
Thanks guys for the response. I'm attaching some pics to see if any help can be put to visual aids with my mess of an electrical system
 
Visual aids;)

20250908_144748.jpg


20250908_144857.jpg
 
Update just tried to start her and cranking now with no start. Will not turn over ugh. Her nick name is officially Christine
 
TheGreenBastard said:
My bad I appreciate the knowledge on that application terminology
Click to expand...


I’m old. It just makes it confusing. I know guys love to hook HEI modules to everything so who knows?? Maybe you hooked an HEI a module to your Progression ignition.

I suppose if I live long enough someone will. And I won’t be surprised lol.
 
DID YOU DO the voltage tests I told you about? THAT WILL tell the story. Looking at photos from hundreds or thousands of miles away will tell us not much. "I am guessing" from the photo here that the problem is EXACTLY as I have outlined.

GET A METER and GET A 12V test light and then we can go to town on this
I am guessing that the black wire you have plugged into the old ballast connector is your "new power wire?" THAT CONNECTION GOES DEAD when you twist the key to start.

See the other two ballast connectors, the whitish ones? Put a test light in one, crank with the key, see if it lights. If not move to the second one. One of them should show power when cranking the engine. JUMPER that one to the black that you have plugged in.
1757363274342.png
 
"Crank" or "turn over." Means the starter rotates the engine, possibly slowly, but does

"Fires" Chugs, coughs, sputters, or starts and run for a short period of time, maybe even only a fraction of a second.

"Starts." Same as "fires" and may or may not stay running. May run or may run for a very short time

"Fires and runs" or "starts and runs". Self explanatory
 

There is a reason, or should I say good reason, why numerous companies are making HEI dists for numerous non-GM engines that never had originally had HEI...but nobody is making Chrys elec dists for those same engines.

img092.jpg


img093.jpg


img354.jpg


img421.jpg
 
67Dart273 said:
DID YOU DO the voltage tests I told you about? THAT WILL tell the story. Looking at photos from hundreds or thousands of miles away will tell us not much. "I am guessing" from the photo here that the problem is EXACTLY as I have outlined.

GET A METER and GET A 12V test light and then we can go to town on this
I am guessing that the black wire you have plugged into the old ballast connector is your "new power wire?" THAT CONNECTION GOES DEAD when you twist the key to start.

See the other two ballast connectors, the whitish ones? Put a test light in one, crank with the key, see if it lights. If not move to the second one. One of them should show power when cranking the engine. JUMPER that one to the black that you have plugged in.
View attachment 1716452309
Click to expand...
I did the test light and the double brown wire lit up red the other one did nothing. I plugged the jumper wire in as it's seen in this picture. She starter up but then when I turned her off. Tried to start her again same thing turns over but stops. My buddy held the choke open she started again. Mind you the electric choke has been broken since the seventies my dad told only as of yesterday lol. I tried to start it again put a screw driver in the choke to keep it open still doing tje same thing won't stay started

20250918_160833.jpg
 
TheGreenBastard said:
I did the test light and the double brown wire lit up red the other one did nothing. I plugged the jumper wire in as it's seen in this picture. She starter up but then when I turned her off. Tried to start her again same thing turns over but stops. My buddy held the choke open she started again. Mind you the electric choke has been broken since the seventies my dad told only as of yesterday lol. I tried to start it again put a screw driver in the choke to keep it open still doing tje same thing won't stay started

View attachment 1716456751
Click to expand...
This green and yellow wire is dead it goes to the 5 pin connector that went to the ecu box that is not hooked up anymore. Should I cut it?

20250918_161740.jpg
 
I tried wiring from the brown to positive coil it's still not staying started. The engine fires but then shuts down. If I hold it just right it starts. But it should not do this

20250918_190735.jpg
 
I can't tell what you have. Is this some aftermarket harness? What is all the wire that's coiled up?
 
Newbomb Turk said:
I’ve said it before but it bears repeating here.

More of this era car has been destroyed by guys screwing with the wiring. Most times without a wiring diagram to boot.

It’s a shame. I feel bad for the OP.
Click to expand...
I do too. It is even harder for him to diagnose and repair. Near impossible for us to help much.
 
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