hard starting

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reddishdsb

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73 318 2bbl new fuel tank, carb and fuel pump. Has to turn over for about two minutes before it has fuel if it sits for more than a day. If you pour alittle gas in carb it will run for a second. once it cranks it is usually ok for the rest of the day. Any ideas?
 
You're sucking air some place. Check any hose connection between the tank and the pump to make sure the hoses do not have holes, or a loose hose clamp.
Your carb has issues if the bowl is going dry over night........Does your oil smell like gas? If it does, dump it and the filter, put in fresh. Figure out why your carburetor is leaking fuel into the crank case.
 
If using ethanol gas there is a problem with evaporation. If my car sits overnight it is hard to start the next morning
 
You're sucking air some place. Check any hose connection between the tank and the pump to make sure the hoses do not have holes, or a loose hose clamp.
Your carb has issues if the bowl is going dry over night........Does your oil smell like gas? If it does, dump it and the filter, put in fresh. Figure out why your carburetor is leaking fuel into the crank case.

An Eddie or TQ carbed motor pulled in at running temp and parked can evaporate the fuel in no time.
Didn't used to, but with these new fuels they can for sure.

My car with an electric pump doesn't have that problem, but my Wifes 72 Dart with a mechanical pump does the same thing as yours.
(And I guarantee there are no fuel leaks, bad carb or fuel hoses on her car)
But it does have a small bowl carb.
 
My 2 barrel 273 does the same.
I've rebuilt the carb, swapped carbs, changed the fuel line, all with no improvement.
I just got a small fuel pump that I will be using to prime the carb with a momentary switch.
 
I've not had that problem with my 750DP,lol. Even up from Sunday night to Friday evening.
My Dad's 5th Avenue Teener2bbl, tho does that in 7 days, exactly. He said, before he died, that he had had the carb off several times and could not find a leak. So my conclusion is that teener 2bbls and 10% ethanol are not good friends,lol; but 750DPs have big enough bowls and pumps to not be as sensitive.
However, the line from the tank to the fuel pump should not run dry, almost ever. So the pump itself could have defective valves in it. I would perform a vacuum test on it, then a pressure test and finally a volume test. Two minutes of cranking is a very long time. When my slanty runs completely out of gas, after the refill, it would never take that much cranking.The spec on the teener pump is about 1 quart per 60 seconds at 500 rpm. The bowl should thus be full after about 10 to 15 seconds. I prime the accelerator pump as I am cranking and in just a few seconds the engine is bucking and farting and in a few more seconds Vroom,vroom.
2 minutes is a very long time. I would have to agree with the fella that said your pump is sucking air. Either that or it is weak.
 
I've not had that problem with my 750DP,lol. Even up from Sunday night to Friday evening.
My Dad's 5th Avenue Teener2bbl, tho does that in 7 days, exactly. He said, before he died, that he had had the carb off several times and could not find a leak. So my conclusion is that teener 2bbls and 10% ethanol are not good friends,lol; but 750DPs have big enough bowls and pumps to not be as sensitive.
However, the line from the tank to the fuel pump should not run dry, almost ever. So the pump itself could have defective valves in it. I would perform a vacuum test on it, then a pressure test and finally a volume test. Two minutes of cranking is a very long time. When my slanty runs completely out of gas, after the refill, it would never take that much cranking.The spec on the teener pump is about 1 quart per 60 seconds at 500 rpm. The bowl should thus be full after about 10 to 15 seconds. I prime the accelerator pump as I am cranking and in just a few seconds the engine is bucking and farting and in a few more seconds Vroom,vroom.
2 minutes is a very long time. I would have to agree with the fella that said your pump is sucking air. Either that or it is weak.

Holleys have bowls suspended at the ends in open air and the TQ's and Eddies bowls are right in the body where the heat concentrates for the longest time.
That's my theory anyway.
 
Holleys have bowls suspended at the ends in open air and the TQ's and Eddies bowls are right in the body where the heat concentrates for the longest time.
That's my theory anyway.
have any of u guys ever thot about a small check valve at the rear of the car? it would keep the gas line and pump full, instead of draining down.
 
The standard mechanical fuel pumps HAVE check valves in them... at least 2: in at the input and 1 at the output. It should not drain back.

I am voting for a bad pump check valve. New pumps are not always 100% right. OP do you park with the car pointed uphill or??
 
I try to never argue with theory. I have so many theories I'd just never get anything done.lol
I have conducted some evaporation tests on our local E10.And some smoke tests to go with those, and color tests. When that fuel first hit Manitoba in about 98/99 I was working at a Honda shop, working on small engines, generally under 1000cc. We saw the fuel crises almost right away. Especially amongst the farming community who tend to sneak their farm-gas into their small engines. Farm gas can often be in their atmospherically vented storage tanks for several months. The results were disastrous;all their small engines quit running.With the possible exception of their 2-cycle units. It seems there was fuel stabilizer in the oils they were often using. In any case they (the farmers) all had to learn to buy smaller quantities of fuel and stabilize it, for their small engines. We did a lot of carb work that first summer.
What I found was that vented,un-stabilized gas was good for about a week, before the smallest engines;(sub 80cc) had trouble starting on it, the carbs had to be readjusted, and they were down on power.By the end of the next week even 500cc ATVs were complaining and often pinging. Another week and Carb'd cars were fighting to start,with full bowls no less.
With stabilizer added the gas was still good after many weeks and I don't know were the drop-off point might have been.
Interestingly, the un-stabilized fuel turned color as it aged, and I learned to tell how old the fuel was by it's color!
This came in very handy, when, after educating the customer as to the fuel issue; three weeks later, the customers would come in complaining about my shoddy carb job. I would, with them present, drain some fuel out, and compare the color to my samples. Shazzam! No free second carb job for you Dick! Then I would light there sample on fire, still with them present, and compare it to the fresh stuff we had on hand all the time. The results spoke for themselves. Their sample would be hard to light, smoke, flutter and often die before it was all consumed. The new stuff; stand back!
Yeah so, that's how I saved my boss money.
Sometimes when I was very busy, and to select non-dicks, I would just tell them to home and swap the gas out. Problem solved. I was always back-logged with work there, and I used this opportunity to generate good-will. And it worked, I was busy there non-stop 12months a year, lotsa OT .
Yeah so, when that stuff came in, they simultaneously pulled all other non-oxy fuels in our neighborhood. And that was the year my 367 was born. With around 11.3Scr!.
I've been stabilizing all my yard fuel ever since.I have had zero fuel issues,since.
 
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Holleys have bowls suspended at the ends in open air and the TQ's and Eddies bowls are right in the body where the heat concentrates for the longest time.
That's my theory anyway.


Pretty decent theory.
I have never personally checked the volume of Holley bowls verses any other carb. It's possible the Holley bowls have more volume as well.
 
I think my center-hungs are 50 to 60CCs


I have to pull my crap apart this week. I guess I can CC one of them when it goes back together just for giggles.

I do know you can get bowls from Braswell (and I suppose BLP, QF, Cubic, Devane etc) that are called "fuel chute" bowls that have more volume and a different inlet configuration IIRC. They take their own floats, screws and accelerator pump arms. I have 2 sets on dominators.
 
I've had this problem on almost every carburetor equipped vehicle I've had the last several years except my dart with an old 780 Holley whisk runs $8 gal race fuel and my truck with new QFT but the truck never sits long. With the eddy and qjet. The bowls litterally dried over night. I honestly believe that crap ethanol is the problem with a vented carb. Think the center hung Holley type carbs hold enough fuel the bowls don't dry out over night
 
It did this when I got it someone had replaced the tank already, I put on a rebuilt carb had same prob, then fuel pump and filter and still have the same prob, it will crank fine all day but if it sits for a couple days real pain in the butt. Gonna add electric pump.
 
No issues with mech fuel pump here. Can sit for a week or more and will crank up after about 4-6 pumps of the pedal. Running a eddy thunder series avs carb
 
Possibly a pinhole air leak in fuel line but if you run ethanol, I'd about guarantee that's the problem. Electric pump to prime it will fix it though. Don't need a big Holley or automotive. Bout any little parts store pump will work fine
 
Also depending on where you live the ethanol content can be higher. They can claim ethanol free and STILL legally ad up to 10%
 
I can use ethanol free gas and the issue mysteriously disappears.
 
I absouletely despise ethanol fuel!!! Around here, you drive 30 miles to find decent fuel, then pay 2.69 a gal for it. Funny though, engine runs a few degrees cooler, an extra mile or 2 to the gallon, runs smoother and it don't boil out when hot or when it sits a few days. I guess the extra price is worth it to me to lose the headaches.
 
With my old Carter AFB I had to usually crank at most 15 seconds to get the bowls filled enough to get it to fire and that was only if they were bone-dry (sitting for a week or more). If it's really taking you 2 minutes to get it fired you might have a fuel supply issue. BTW now I'm running a new Street Demon with the plastic body and it handles the modern fuels MUCH better, more consistent temps and AFR (I have an O2 sensor and digital readout). It will boil ethanol gas on the hottest summer days if I'm idling around in bumper-to-bumper traffic but besides that it's a lot more 'drivable' than my old Carter. Usually still has gas left for the next cold start as well, if it's only sat a day or two I can pump the gas pedal 2 or 3 times and it fires right up.
 
I try to never argue with theory. I have so many theories I'd just never get anything done.lol
I have conducted some evaporation tests on our local E10.And some smoke tests to go with those, and color tests. When that fuel first hit Manitoba in about 98/99 I was working at a Honda shop, working on small engines, generally under 1000cc. We saw the fuel crises almost right away. Especially amongst the farming community who tend to sneak their farm-gas into their small engines. Farm gas can often be in their atmospherically vented storage tanks for several months. The results were disastrous;all their small engines quit running.With the possible exception of their 2-cycle units. It seems there was fuel stabilizer in the oils they were often using. In any case they (the farmers) all had to learn to buy smaller quantities of fuel and stabilize it, for their small engines. We did a lot of carb work that first summer.
What I found was that vented,un-stabilized gas was good for about a week, before the smallest engines;(sub 80cc) had trouble starting on it, the carbs had to be readjusted, and they were down on power.By the end of the next week even 500cc ATVs were complaining and often pinging. Another week and Carb'd cars were fighting to start,with full bowls no less.
With stabilizer added the gas was still good after many weeks and I don't know were the drop-off point might have been.
Interestingly, the un-stabilized fuel turned color as it aged, and I learned to tell how old the fuel was by it's color!
This came in very handy, when, after educating the customer as to the fuel issue; three weeks later, the customers would come in complaining about my shoddy carb job. I would, with them present, drain some fuel out, and compare the color to my samples. Shazzam! No free second carb job for you Dick! Then I would light there sample on fire, still with them present, and compare it to the fresh stuff we had on hand all the time. The results spoke for themselves. Their sample would be hard to light, smoke, flutter and often die before it was all consumed. The new stuff; stand back!
Yeah so, that's how I saved my boss money.
Sometimes when I was very busy, and to select non-dicks, I would just tell them to home and swap the gas out. Problem solved. I was always back-logged with work there, and I used this opportunity to generate good-will. And it worked, I was busy there non-stop 12months a year, lotsa OT .
Yeah so, when that stuff came in, they simultaneously pulled all other non-oxy fuels in our neighborhood. And that was the year my 367 was born. With around 11.3Scr!.
I've been stabilizing all my yard fuel ever since.I have had zero fuel issues,since.


Hey AJ/FormS, what do you use as a stabilizer?
 
I'm not fussy; any brand is better than nothing. I used whatever the parts department was supplying.
On my own stuff, I buy whatever I can get a good price on. Currently I think I have a product in my little shop called Sta-Bil, go-figure.....
 
Well, the evaporation theory is shot to hell. At least for the Holley.

I pulled mine off today. It has sat for at least 65-70 days and there was enough fuel in the bowls to start it right off.


I'll measure bowl volume here soon.
 
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