Not sure at that temp. Most likely not. What's 200° going to give you, possibly a tenth? Will it void any warranty or loosen the ring? I think I'd hone it a couple tenths and maybe make sure the keyway cut is not raised with some bluing.
Yeah I’ll do that tomorrow, the support guy I talked to was super bitchy. Maybe he’ll be in a better mood in the morning
I am a retired toolman but I like using balancer installers. It's easy on the crank bolt threads and doesn't damage thrust bearings like a hammer and a block of wood does. Just sayin'.
Your all wrong. He's fully seated. Agree? <<FAIL!>>> my bad. I measured the distance from nose to back of balancer and they are all equal. It just sticks out height wise.
Does the end of the balancer snout bottom out on the front bearing surface on the crank. I don't like the looks of what you pictured there.
Yeah, it sticks out like a sore thumb. Before you pull it off, measure the depth of the threads. I'm suprised your crank bolt reached as I had to buy a longer one for another fluid damper style that had the extended flange. A Lisle balancer puller available at a good auto parts store has the jack screw the same pitch and diameter As a Mopar crank bolt. Its very easy to push balancer on as far as it will go with your hands, then thread the jack screw all the way in, and then run a washer and nit onto end. You use the 1/2 hex end to hold the jack screw and crank steady while you use a 3/4 fine pitch nut to drive the balancer on. It's really the only way to get a proper torque on the balancer without a stop somewhere like on the ring gear or something stuck in a balance hole on the crank counter balance
pull it off and do some more measuring. If you do enough measuring it should be pretty obvious if the damper is fully seated or not, and how much surface should be exposed. If you want to be absolutely positive, put some Prussian Blue on the inner end of the dampener snout, and see visually if it's contacting shoulder on crank. Definitely, do not operate the engine until you are SURE the dampener is fully seated. Oh yeah, a Harmonica is sometimes called a mouth organ. If you want to really play a harmonica, you'll try some heavy blipping of the throttle with your hand while stretched over the fan area, and a half-a$$ed installed harmonica dampener, hahaha.
CAT sold a similar balancer and in the instructions say put in boiling water. You can take a can of dust-off and invert it and spray down the crank hub with the white substance just before you put the hot balancer on. Use a glove as it will freeze your hand. The balancer will probably bottom out without even torqueing it down. You can do press fit pins like this too, and also break steering wheel club style lock cylinders with a hammer after freezing them to brittle crystalline.
It is normal for some balancers to have a step like that inside. It helps you start the snout of the balancer into the front seal straight. That balancer did get the correct final machining process, according to his measurements. It is common for aftermarket balancers to be on the tight side, and common to require a slight honing inside for proper fit. There is an acceptable tolerance all parts are machined to. Make sure the woodruf key fits in the slot, then just hone it a small amount. A tight fit is preferred, but this one is too tight. Most Professional Products balancers will touch, or nearly touch, the weight on the back side to the front seal when fully installed.
Thanks for the thorough response! On a somewhat related note, how much clearance is there typically between the water pump pulley and the block?
It does have to an interference fit to work. But, I'm surprised he said that. He probably was talking about a stock one that had been on before. No problem there. I would not use the bolt on a tight aftermarket one. Be careful. You may only be pulling on a few threads. (Ask me how I know)/
according to my "black book", there are many types of fits. I would interpret your situation to be a "locational interference fit(classLN2)". As such, if i am reading the table correctly, for a shaft diameter between 1.19" to 1.97" it requires a hole dimension from +0.000" to +0.0010". If you choose to hone it, I would recommend having it honed by a capable machine shop with a Sunnen Pin Hone or equivalent machine. Furthermore, I think if it were me, I'd send the bill for the machine shop to the manufacturer.
Ok got the right tool to press it on and it went on with some force but very smoothly. I pressed it on until I felt a positive stop so I’m pretty sure it’s on all the way. Thanks everyone!
There’s still a fair amount of empty space on the front side, but I’m guessing it’s as designed. Now the only problem is my crank bolt is way too long! If it’s not one thing it’s another
