Have No Power help!

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BJDEALER

BJDEALER

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Ok i was messing with my dash trying to ground the fuel gauge and see if it works and i got a spark and smoke from the ignition switch touching the dash. It was the ignition switch i am sure. I dont have any power to any accessories or head lights etc. now and the car wont start. Do you think i burned the ignition switch up or any other ideas? Can i fix it or buy a new one is the only option? Thanks
 
You blew the fusible link at the firewall/bulkhead connector. Damage to the ignition switch may be found too.
 
i checked the fusable link at the firewall on the engine side and it had 12 volts. Can the link burn up without physical damage? I have 12 volts on both sides of the ammeter. Could it be the ammeter? How do i check to see what is wrong? How do i check the ignition switch? I just assumed it is the swtch cause before it sparked i had power and the car started just fine. Thanks for any help
 
If the headlights and everything else is off the main power supply is broken somewhere. The fusible link is what's supposed to blow.
 
Fusible links SUCK. Dude that invented um needs to be dug up and killed.
 
I did notice that the ground on the switch was unhooked. Is that normal or am i supposed to ground that terminal? The plug only has enough terminals for the other plug and that one is left out.
 
BJDEALER said:
I did notice that the ground on the switch was unhooked. Is that normal or am i supposed to ground that terminal? The plug only has enough terminals for the other plug and that one is left out.
Click to expand...

The early headlight switches didn't have that ground lug. Later models did and all reproductions do have it. I dont think it is related to your problem.
 
I was poking around with my volt meter today and i found a few things. When i first checked the alternator stud it had only 6-7 volts with the key off. When i turned the key on it had 0. So i thought well the ignition switch is bad. I checked the switch with the key on and turn over and it checks out with about 4.5 ohms continuity between the Batt post and all the others. So i dont think its the switch. I then decided to pull the whole dash and poke around. Of course i unhooked the batter first. I then bolted the big black wire from the ammeter and the red one together to bypass the ammeter. I checked the ammeter for continuity at the same time and it had about 4.5 ohms across. Let me know if these are ok #s please. I checked voltage at the ignition switch and i had nothing? I then checked the big red wire and i got only about 7 volts. I am really confused at this point. I checked the fuse box and realized that a wire that is hooked to the first fuse terminal on the right was unhooked at the bulkhead connector. I figure it pulled lose when i messed with the speedometer cable. Is that the battery feed to the fuse box? Could be a big problem i figured. That could explain why my radio is not. working either. I obviously have a problem at the bulkhead connector so i unhooked the bottom one with Z fusable link. I discovered that the connector was burned and cracked. It fell apart when i took it off. I guess i found my main problem. My question is how do i fix it? Can i replace the spade and a new fusable link? I did notice the alternator bulkhead connector where the big black B+ wire goes in was also burned. I would like to know the easiest cheapest way to fix this problem. I just want the car to run again. Thanks!!
 
4.5 ohms resistance repeating is most likely the resistance in your meter and its leads. The fusible link has a service disconnect at the bulhead connector but you can delete it if you want to by a fusible link from a part store and install it with crimped or soldered connectors. Otherwise you would need the OEM type fusible link that is available at YearOne.com .
there is also info with pics at madelectrical.com which detail drilling through the bulkhead connector and wiring straight through deleting those connectors too.
 
RedFish said:
4.5 ohms resistance repeating is most likely the resistance in your meter and its leads. .
Click to expand...

YUP. What sort of meter do you have, is it "analog" If so it should have a zero adjust for the ohms, OR sometimes the meter face gets static charged.

If it's digital, you might unhook one lead at a time, and short across to see if just one lead gives you a close to zero reading. Shake the lead to make sure it's not intermittent. Some meters (Fluke) have a procedure on "low ohms" to cancel out lead resistance.

I agree that you probably have either a trouble(s) in the bulkhead connector OR OR there is a huge splice in the harness that can fail--I've seen 'er.

I assume you are working on your 66 Cuda? If so, I'll try 'n post some of the trouble spots.
 
Yeah its my 66 cuda. thanks for the help on the alternator/regulator problem i had 67Dart. Now i have this freaking problem to deal with. What about the feed to the fuse box is that in the main wiring harness? Cause my radio does not work either. I know it is getting power from the fuse block through one of the accessory light fuses. I was on even when the key was not in the ignition so when it stopped working i knew had a problem.
 
amp gauge......fried!!!! hook the two wire together and she'll run again,to test this theory....run hot wire to coil then jump across starter relay and car should run and amazingly everything else will work properly,if that is the case you have fried the amp gauge
 
^^^^ like above, hook the two wires together on the amp meter, they are both postive also is your tester digital? If so you need to touch the two leads together and record the number you get then subtract it from any resistance checks you do.

For instance if your meter reads 2.0 ohms resistance with the leads together you would have to subtract that number from your 4.5 ohms. my guess is your meter will read 4.5 ohms with the leads touched together
 
OK, if you don't have a manual, the post by abodyjoe has a 66 manual for download:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1966_Plymouth_Service_Manual.zip

Electrical starts page 189 (Your reader page, not what it says on the "paper")

Wiring diagram index 289

Valiant/ Barracuda diagrams start page 304

Also, at the bottom are the links for the reworked diagrams from MyMopar. Easier to use in some cases

If you look at diagram A, find the bulkhead connector on the left, "Z" is a big thick wire on the diagram feeding from your fuseable link. So this connection in the bulkhead connector is ONE (of several) that is prone to problems because it's a high current connection

"B" is another one, which connects to the alternator

Now if you look on diagram "A" find the ammeter down near the bottom of the page. Follow the black wire off to the right and notice that it is connected to some other wiring. THIS IS THE "in harness" splice which is a factory splice wrapped up somewhere in the under-dash harness, there at least two of these and THEY CAN FAIL.

Some other trouble points are the connections THEMSELVES for the ammeter, that is, the factory crimped eyelet ends. These can become heated and deteriorated internally. It is wise to clip these off if there is any hint, and put new crimped eyelets on, or if you are going to permanently do away with the ammeter, just "butt splice" them together.



http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1966/66BarracudaA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1966/66BarracudaB.jpg
 
fixed it! Just stuck a wire through the firewall at the bulkhead connector and the car started right up. Should i go ahead and wire the alternator to the starter relay like the schematic on madelectric.com, or can i just leave it the same as it is? What is better is my question? Now just need to put a new power steering hose on and i can finally drive it a little. Thanks for all the help this site rocks!!
 
BJDEALER said:
Should i go ahead and wire the alternator to the starter relay like the schematic on madelectric.com, or can i just leave it the same as it is? !
Click to expand...

I used to be somewhat against this, but it is obvious that, more and more, these old girls need some help. Even back in the '70's I had trouble with the bulkhead on my 70 RR and ended up threading some wire through the high--current terminals of the bulkhead.

I say, do the MADD MOD, you can always hang a voltmeter off the bottom of the dash.
 
This was a good learning experience here for all of us.
Always disconnect your battery when messing with wires under your dash
until your ready to fire it up or test it.

Glad you solved your problem!:thumbup:
 
norshorblufish said:
This was a good learning experience here for all of us.
Always disconnect your battery when messing with wires under your dash
until your ready to fire it up or test it.

Glad you solved your problem!:thumbup:
Click to expand...

While we are at it, here's another.

In the fall of 68 I was starting Navy Electronics "A" school at Treasure Island. We had been getting lectures about safety and "REMOVE your watch and other jewelry."

I had met a guy named Grote, a gearhead from back east, who had a ring scar around his wrist. He explained that a couple of years earlier, he had got it against the alternator stud on his Chev, and welded the expansion band pretty much into his wrist
 
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