Hei Swap with Toyota Alternator

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l6hmus

l6hmus

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Hi,

I'm planning to do a hei swap.

Got the kit from TrailBeast and thank you for that.

Only problem is that I'm using an toyota alternator (same as delco swap)
Diagram here: [ame]http://arengineering.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/ARE-AR022-proof.pdf[/ame]

Now I have tried to figure out how to connect the ignition wire coming from the alternator.

All the diagrams show only the S should be connected to the new coli + and that's it.
Like this: http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t304/bherder/GMHEISchematic.jpg

How to rewire the ignition part?

Currently my IG goes from Alternator to resistor and from there to ECU box (like shown here http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb476/waynep712/Mopar_Electronic_Ignition_diagram.jpg~original), but if I remove them then where it should go?


Thank you
Kristjan.
 
Don't overthink. In the factory diagram, see the bright blue? THAT IS "ignition run" as it was originally wired. Now, that will go to coil + AND to your HEI "hot" terminal.

I have no idea how Denso's are wired, there are several different ones

If the Denso has an "ignition" excitation wire, then that should go to ignition run........same as the "new" coil +
 
67Dart273 said:
Don't overthink. In the factory diagram, see the bright blue? THAT IS "ignition run" as it was originally wired. Now, that will go to coil + AND to your HEI "hot" terminal.

If the Denso has an "ignition" excitation wire, then that should go to ignition run........same as the "new" coil +
Click to expand...

1. As above, the IG alternator wire will connect to the car's blue ignition 1 wire that has 12v from the ignition switch when in RUN; the coil + and HEI hot will also connect to the blue wire to receive 12v in RUN.
2. The brown harness wire that provides 12v to the ignition system in the START position of the ignition switch will also have to connect to the blue wire, so that you have ignition power when cranking.
3. The S wire is probably best connected to the large stud terminal on the starter solenoid, where it will 'sense' the system voltage.
4. Completely eliminate the original Mopar regulator and the original ballast resistor. (If it is still there.)
5. If you have any issues with the alternator charging when you first start the car, and have to rev the motor to make it start charging, then you will likely have to connect the L wire through a resistor to the 12v system. The L wire normally goes to an idiot lamp in the dash to show if the charging system is working or not; that lamp does not exist in A body Mopars. The dash lamp connection is also sometimes used to help 'kickstart' the internal voltage regulator when you first fire up the engine. This is the case for some Delco and Denso alternators, but this may not be one of those. Just hook it up as in steps 1-4 and see how the charging system operates; it may be fine as is.
 
l6hmus said:
... Currently my IG goes from Alternator to resistor and from there to ECU box ...
Click to expand...
Part of the confusion is that above description is not exactly right.
IGN goes to the Alternator, it is not an output.
You will not use the ballast resistor w/ HEI. You can remove it and replace with a jumper in its place.
You need to run IGN also to the HEI module. You can tap it at either end of the wire, wherever closest to your module. If you run a new blue IGN wire, best to use 12 or 14 awg for any section shared by the alternator and HEI.

Re wiring the "sense" wire of the Toyota alternator, the instructions suggest connecting to BATT+ (big stud on starter relay), but I would be concerned that might draw current when off and run down the battery if sitting for weeks. Research if you can connect it to switched 12 V, which under-hood is only the IGN wire. If so, connect the furthest upstream you can tap, i.e. as close to the bulkhead connector as you can conveniently, ex. the upstream side of the ballast resistor connector. It can be a thin wire, since just sensing. I would download a 4 Runner schematic and copy what they do.

From the description, it sounds like the Toyota alternator doesn't require a "bootup" from the dash lamp, as do older GM's (post 5, #5). That was the "Motorola type", which my 1980's M-B cars also use.
 
On a denso the L wire for a lamp circuit is unneeded to flash the alt field circuit.

I have a denso that has 3 connections
output stud (self explanitory )
IG plug (Ign hot input)
L plug ( fault light)

I am wiring in a fault light on my ammeter that i converted to volts. If using a led for this remember they are polarity sensitive.

Denso fault light circuit shunts to ground at the alternator to turn the light on. This requires the positive wire for an LED indicator to start at the gage ign switched circuit.
 
although not necessary on a denso, i added a 12v led fault light to my Ammeter to volt gage conversion. I drilled a #50 drill hole with a tiny machinest drill, and soldered the + wire to the 12v in on the gages internals which are ign switched hot. The black wire on tge led is the output to terminal L on the denso.

Fault light pix
 

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Here's the real Toyota factory wiring diagram
 

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