Hei woes

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MoparMatt77

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so I'm doing my hei conversion on my 73 slant six Duster as I do on all my mopars and this one has me pulling my hair out.

I've follow my diagram and experience and I can get fire back, it well grounded all my connections are soldered and vacuumed.

But I can get any combo to work. By resistor is properly bipassed and original module unplugged.

Anybody have an hei on a 73ish 225 that they can't shoot me some pics of?

I have my hei module mounted on the inner fender where I put all of mine that have worked in the past.
 
MoparMatt77 said:
so I'm doing my hei conversion on my 73 slant six Duster as I do on all my mopars and this one has me pulling my hair out.

I've follow my diagram and experience and I can get fire back, it well grounded all my connections are soldered and vacuumed.

But I can get any combo to work. By resistor is properly bipassed and original module unplugged.

Anybody have an hei on a 73ish 225 that they can't shoot me some pics of?

I have my hei module mounted on the inner fender where I put all of mine that have worked in the past.
Click to expand...

I am assuming it's a 4 pin module.
Wiring is the same no matter what motor it goes on.

4Pin.jpg
 
M;t;t your tyupind ahs gomu a1l teu 7ell, eh?

You can or cannot get spark, you said "can." Maybe the reluctor wires need to be reversed that is IF you have spark.

MAKE SURE you have the module grounded and heat sink'd

If you have a tach try unhooking it.

NOTICE on that diagram the small blade on the HEI connects to the BARE end of the dist. connector AS PICTURED
 
I'm wondering if you forgot the coil bypass circuit when you did the resistor bypass. Put your meter/ lamp on coil +

That terminal is also what should be supplying 12V to the module. Make sure it has 12V BOTH in "run" and "start" positions of the key

On a side note, I have one of these wired up in a box with a coil. I built it to carry as "spare ignition" but I've also used it to test fire several junk engines. You plug in the dist, hookup the ground clip and battery power clip, and hook up the coil high voltage wire, and you have IGNITION!!

hwlcfa.jpg


34nf6l0.jpg
 
What I would do is unroll the harness wrap so you can strip out the ECU and distributor wiring connections with a minimum of cutting. All you eliminate is one power wire to the ECU, and the wire coming to the ECU from the resistor. That's TWO

The two distributor wires make three and four

the wire from ECU to coil NEG make the FIFTH

If you do this right, you will end up with the ECU connector still connected to the distributor connector.

You will have the wire which went to the coil NEG still with the eyelet

You will have two wires from the ECU connector up to the resistor connections which are now cut

So now the ECU is gone. You can leave the original coil+ wire this will become your new power wire for both the coil and HEI

Now just splice everything that was at the resistor together. There should be nothing "left over"
 
Did you do the test above in post 7?

You do/ don't have 12v in both "run" and "start?"
 
Explain exactly how you are testing for spark. Connect a spark plug (or tester) directly to the coil top wire (before distributor).
Is your module case grounded to BAT- (blue wire in diagram). How did you verify? Are you using a multimeter?
 
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