HELP - Cragar SS Lug Nut Washers Keep Crushing - Need Alternatives!

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Hard to tell in the picture he posted, but is there a conical taper inside the lug hole? It looks like a flat surface for a flat washered lug nut, but I see what you're saying Rusty.

It's just hard to confirm that he has the 60 degree conical tapered wheel.

Very difficult to see for sure, but it does not have to have "much" of a seat. Just a chamfur on the inside of the hole is enough.
 
I have never seen a 7/16 left or right hand lug nut have an 11/16 head on it. Ever. Ever. I have probably 25 solid year in tires/wheels/balancing/alignment and suspension. Never seen this problem before, either. Appears that the washer is not fitting into the recess and as the nut is tightened down it is pushing the inside of the washer down against the recess. Did you test fit the washers first to make sure that they do fit completely into the recess where they are suppose to go?
I got 20 of them mounted on my 47 year old Cragars on my Dart. 10 lefts and 10 rights.
 
Does that lug hole have a washer stuck in it? That does not look conical to me........

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Does that lug hole have a washer stuck in it? That does not look conical to me........

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Agree. There's not much, but it sure isn't flat either.

mobilecustoms - you could stick a piece of clay on the hole to better see the shape.
Basically I think RRR is right on this.

I think you may be correct. My wheels don't have any relief cut in them for a conical lug nut but maybe that's just how they are. I'd be a little concerned about cracking the wheel from trying to seat them. They also offer some other conical nuts with a little shank on them which I think would be even better. I would still probably need to install longer studs either way.
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Only thing to watch for on those is the diameter isn't too large. With conical seat, thats what the nut and wheel should center on - the seats.
Thread engagement rule of thumb is equal to the diameter but at least 5 threads no matter what. With the sbp I like to see closer to 10.
Gorilla brand had a good selection of 7/16-20, at least they used to.

will make sure I don't go above 75-80 lbs max, next time I install them
55 ft lbs is all that Chrysler called for. I know its alot less than AMC and GM call for on their 7/16 lug nuts, but 55 is all thats needed to properly tension the Chryslers. I do tend to err on the high side and set the final torque target to 57 ft lbs.
 
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The original 4" bolt pattern Cragars were only 14" wheels with straight shank lugnuts and flat washers. I have no idea what the newly made wheels, especially the 15" versions use.
 
The surface on my wheels are definitely flat, not conical at all... The marks you see in the photos are from the old washers grinding around, trying to tighten them. Once the lugnut sunk into the washers, it would spin the washer around as you try to tighten it. The biggest problem seems that practically there's no shoulder at all on the lugnuts to even grab the washer flat.
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Pretty sure you have the right lug nut, got to have the shank length right?, @67Dart273...I have to agree the washers have to fit into the indents, if not the washer will start to fold and drag. Back in the day I remember washers for rims that that was elongated for different makes, ford/ Mopar rims... chev had their dream.
 
I think it's just a piss-poor lugnut design. The washer should be built into the lugnut as a shoulder... like an ARP type of bolt. not 2 pieces that fight each other.
Basically like @Dicer said, "Mag Seat" type of lug nuts.

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I bought new 15 inch sbp cragars last year. They are the kind with the conical seats. They work great. I torque to 55 ft lbs. pictures attached.

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I broke the same lugnut by overtorquing. Spec for factory stud in 67 I believe is ONLY 55 lb/ft and had trouble finding a replacement lug and washer. I remember checking out here.
Mag
I will see what I have for washers.
 
The wheels look like they have been over torqued, creating an uneven surface for the washer. Cragar has a torque spec for these wheels, and now we all see why.
 
I looked at a bunch of torque charts on the internet and the torque for a grade 5 7/16-20 bolt is 55 ft lbs dry. Assuming that the studs are grade 5, this correlates well with the Chrysler spec.
 
The conical with the shank is known as an E.T. Lug nut. I've used them successfully when not much stud to work with
 
Found mine, same lug nuts, here is washer with dimensions. No issues, they are not chromed. I'll see if I can find receipt to where I got them from. Is the conical style to be used with these rims?

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I have some of those crap washers as well. Many of them are warped. I don't use them. I try to find a more robust washer. The good ones are not only a smidge thicker, but I swear they are better steel too.
 
I wish I could at least just buy some new washers without the the lugnuts and give them another fresh go while keeping a close eye on them and the torque. I'll give Cragar another call tomorrow.
 
IMO, These small Cragar 7/16" lugs/washers were a PITA even 35 years ago. Just not enough clamp surface. They loosened up too easily even when torqued correctly.
It doesn't take long for the "built in" washer on the nut to dig into the flat washers they supplied. So that indent in the washer X 5 is what's doing the work on the wheel. Lol, Over time after repeated re-torque, ya' started working on the hex too.

Was more than happy to swap to 4-1/2" BC discs with the 1/2"-20 lugs.

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Dave, do/did yours loosen up? My washers look same as yours and would "mark up" some. But they didnt loosen up?
Cool old pic!
IMO, These small Cragar 7/16" lugs/washers were a PITA even 35 years ago. Just not enough clamp surface. They loosened up too easily even when torqued correctly.
It doesn't take long for the "built in" washer on the nut to dig into the flat washers they supplied. So that indent in the washer X 5 is what's doing the work on the wheel. Lol, Over time after repeated re-torque, ya' started working on the hex too.

Was more than happy to swap to 4-1/2" BC discs with the 1/2"-20 lugs.

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The old Cragar flat washers were hardened. The new stuff is not. Plus it's probably the cheapest Chinesium-metal they can get. As I mentioned previously, McGard at one time had the correct nuts with nice hardened washers. Not shown in their current on-line catalog, but I'd call them about it anyway. Or possibly try Gorilla Automotive.

By the way, nobody makes off-the-shelf washers that are the correct size for these nuts. I looked at every SAE, metric, aircraft, military, washer in existence and nobody has anything close.
 
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