help needed with 904

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So some of them may be different?
moper said:
If they are teflon vs iron you should still be fine. Personally I like the iron sealing rings more but teflon is pretty common and in some circles considered an upgrade.
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First not comfortable with the front sealing ring not 100% matching the new one.
Second I'm going to crack open that other transmission and start robbing parts.
 
Sealing rings can be different and it's not too big of a deal that some interlock on the ends and some don't. (though I like the iron interlocked ones best)
The trick is to fit them in the bore where they ride and make sure they fit ok.
Basically they are just like a piston ring as far as function.
The outer pressure plates on the clutchpacks can be turned over, but the surface needs to be flat or it will trash the clutches that come in contact with it.

That little feeler gauge is dangerous, and that is why I told you how to make a lip seal tool.
ALL the edges need to be rounded and real smooth.
They do make wire tools like AJ mentioned but I never like those as the were generally a little flimsy for my taste.
Also, you almost can't use too much lube on assembly.
If you think you might have cut a seal, pull it back out and check.

Rings should have a good smathering on them before they go into their bores.
The pump should be packed pretty much full of lube so it quickly picks up the fluid on startup. (most important on used pumps with more clearance than new ones)
The back of the pump seal should be packed full to keep the spring from popping out and going into the pump gears from being seated in the pump.
The pump bushing should be staked AND red Locktite used on the bushing to pump contact area.
Do NOT do this part without asking first if you are not sure.

Oh, and the little check balls in the piston are pressure bleeds.
 
TrailBeast said:
The back of the pump seal should be packed full to keep the spring from popping out and going into the pump gears from being seated in the pump.
The pump bushing should be staked AND red Locktite used on the bushing to pump contact area.
Do NOT do this part without asking first if you are not sure.

Oh, and the little check balls in the piston are pressure bleeds.
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I'm not sure about what your talking about
 
j par said:
I'm not sure about what your talking about
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Which part?

The pump seal that the converter goes through has a spring inside it, and the lube keeps it from popping out of it groove when the seal is being tapped into the pump.

The bushing inside the pump should be staked (meaning peened) in the pump housing to make sure it doesn't spin in the pump casting.
The red Locktite makes sure the bushing stays put.
I use a 1/8 or so steel rod Like a small screwdriver shaft and just ding the edge of the bushing over into those cutouts in the housing.
This means that pump bushing goes into the pump with it's seam where the bushing ends come together are between those two divots in the pump housing.

pump.JPG
 
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Just that last part about the pump. That's the last piece I put in I'm pretty sure and I haven't really cracked it open or got into that yet as I'm not sure about it. I guess I'm finding too much crap going wrong with the first things that I got to put in to start thinking about the last things that I put in LOL. I'm glad you're staying up with me though because one day I could do nothing and the next day it could be in the car LOL.
Remember the whole visual learning thing? I just figured it out it is because I haven't pulled it apart and seen it with my own eyes that I can visualize what you're talking about. I'll crack that open today And maybe review it with you later ?
First things first, I want to get this one two clutch pack drum and input shaft part completely together. Now as far as the input shaft and its drum- I don't have to take those two things apart do I? I tried and it didn't want to come apart and I didn't want to do anymore forcing. I'm not sure if there's a seal of any kind that needs to be replaced inside there anyways?


TrailBeast said:
Which part?
Click to expand...
 
j par said:
Just that last part about the pump. That's the last piece I put in I'm pretty sure and I haven't really cracked it open or got into that yet as I'm not sure about it. I guess I'm finding too much crap going wrong with the first things that I got to put in to start thinking about the last things that I put in LOL. I'm glad you're staying up with me though because one day I could do nothing and the next day it could be in the car LOL.
Remember the whole visual learning thing? I just figured it out it is because I haven't pulled it apart and seen it with my own eyes that I can visualize what you're talking about. I'll crack that open today And maybe review it with you later ?
First things first, I want to get this one two clutch pack drum and input shaft part completely together. Now as far as the input shaft and its drum- I don't have to take those two things apart do I? I tried and it didn't want to come apart and I didn't want to do anymore forcing. I'm not sure if there's a seal of any kind that needs to be replaced inside there anyways?
Click to expand...

Understood on the pump part, but when you see it you will know.
It is VERY important to put that pump bushing in like the pic I posted shows though.
You should see the seam in the new bushing that needs to be between the staking dibits in the pump housing.

The input shaft stays in the drum, and is only removed when the shaft needs replaced.
 
10-4 got it, thank you cool stuff...

TrailBeast said:
Which part?

The pump seal that the converter goes through has a spring inside it, and the lube keeps it from popping out of it groove when the seal is being tapped into the pump.

The bushing inside the pump should be staked (meaning peened) in the pump housing to make sure it doesn't spin in the pump casting.
The red Locktite makes sure the bushing stays put.
I use a 1/8 or so steel rod Like a small screwdriver shaft and just ding the edge of the bushing over into those cutouts in the housing.
This means that pump bushing goes into the pump with it's seam where the bushing ends come together are between those two divots in the pump housing.

View attachment 1715043940
Click to expand...
 
10-4
going out right now to grab the other transmission and start ripping it apart and robbing it of parts. ( that are probably 10 years newer?)

TrailBeast said:
Understood on the pump part, but when you see it you will know.
It is VERY important to put that pump bushing in like the pic I posted shows though.
You should see the seam in the new bushing that needs to be between the staking dibits in the pump housing.

The input shaft stays in the drum, and is only removed when the shaft needs replaced.
Click to expand...
 
j par said:
I'm glad you're staying up with me though because one day I could do nothing and the next day it could be in the car LOL.
Remember the whole visual learning thing? I just figured it out it is because I haven't pulled it apart and seen it with my own eyes that I can visualize what you're talking about. I'll crack that open today And maybe review it with you later ?
Click to expand...

Yea, I get it but that part freaks me out a little. :D
No point in letting this trans fail over something simple yet really important because it got put together before you knew.
 
j par said:
10-4
going out right now to grab the other transmission and start ripping it apart and robbing it of parts. ( that are probably 10 years newer?)
Click to expand...

Just so you know, different years could use different splines and such.
They might look like they are the same, but some had deeper teeth than others and if mixed the shaft would spin in the drum and fill the trans and converter both with metal. (not to mention destroying both parts)

If you use more than just a pressure plate or something that is not splined you are probably ok.
Please ask, if you start to swap parts from one to the other.
This is the specifics I don't remember any more, so we may need a bit of input on that if it comes up.
 
10-4
Don't worry I'm not go that fast LOL yes I was just planning on the accumulator spring and the pressure plate for now but that's 35 bucks or more so I might as well. And the 20 minutes each way driving.
 
Well in typical shape our fashion we may have a whole switch around right in the middle of everything! There was grey matter all over the other transmission filter but apparently the filter was working well because it kept it out of the transmission. I'm pulling this Heather transmission apart and it's looking extremely clean inside the drums aren't all burnt the band look great and everything looks very stock and the transmission is literally 10 years newer. It definitely looks as if it's been rebuilt inside just by exterior appearances of the interior. Oh boy
 
j par said:
Well in typical shape our fashion we may have a whole switch around right in the middle of everything! There was grey matter all over the other transmission filter but apparently the filter was working well because it kept it out of the transmission. I'm pulling this Heather transmission apart and it's looking extremely clean inside the drums aren't all burnt the band look great and everything looks very stock and the transmission is literally 10 years newer. It definitely looks as if it's been rebuilt inside just by exterior appearances of the interior. Oh boy
Click to expand...

Yep, you might just do that one instead then.
Grey and/or black goo is usually aluminum that wore off of something, like the inside of a converter.(the fluid pressures wear the aluminum off vanes and such inside converters)
Black chunks are burned clutches or bands, silver bits can be disintegrating bushings or needle bearings and silver slivers means hogged out bushings.
(Just general info):D
 
Do yourself a favor and take the other trans apart somewhere away from the one you want. There are very subtle differences in some parts that will not interchange without their associated matching parts. Also - you have to take EVERYTHING as far apart as you can. Because anywhere that was exposed to fluid has the potential to harbor debris and future issues. Clean clean clean. Surgically clean everything.
 
Well what a day! I started out trying to rob Parts out of the other transmission and believe me that sucker came apart quick. Turns out it was twice as clean inside as I would have ever thought. So I stripped everything out Cleaned it and took everything from the other transmission away and put the old transmission into place. So far the four clutches and four bands and what I believe is the first second drum is back in. I thought I felt just the slightest bit piece Maybe of a cut on the outer rubber but we'll see. And of course I used the for thinner clutches for that one and three steels. Now for some reason I have 4 larger clutches and I need five? And I have five steals and I need 4? And now I will be at the big dilemma of how to get that Big Spring out of the reverse third clutches?
 
Soooo, couldn't stop thinking about how I was going to get that big spring out of the third/reverse drum. It hit me and I jumped off the couch and to the garage. Got it off simple....
did find a last steel at the bottom, no pressure plate and now still one clutch disk short.
20170503_224455.jpg
 
So I took a look at transmission #1's reverse/3rd basket and it has a pressure plate at the bottom and 4 clutch disks. And transmission #2 has 5 clutches and a steel at the bottom ?
 
Just called portland transmission ( don't look up "Portland tranny"!) Good gravy I'll never make that mistake again! Anyways $2.50 for another clutch disc.
The guy on the phone was trying to give me the best price so he wanted to know if I have business and I said "automatic drive heavy duty" "ADHD transmission". Oh boy he was laughing so hard!
 
j par said:
Just called portland transmission ( don't look up "Portland tranny"!) Good gravy I'll never make that mistake again! Anyways $2.50 for another clutch disc.
The guy on the phone was trying to give me the best price so he wanted to know if I have business and I said "automatic drive heavy duty" "ADHD transmission". Oh boy he was laughing so hard!
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Want me to hook you up with my doctor? He's right in PDX. He can give you mess that will help...well...they will take the edge off a bit and give your brains rest.


Let me know. I think he can work wonders for you.

And this is because I'm concerned for your mental well being. Always have your health in my thoughts.
 
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