I replaced my turn signal switch, and now I am getting a click when I turn the steering whell to the left, and you can see the turn signal lever move a bit. On the backside of the steering wheel, there is a metal ring (see picture) with a tab that I assume is supposed to cancel the signal as you make the turn. I am pretty sure that this is piece is what is making contact with the signal switch, but not sure why. Did I lose some sort of spacer or something? Please enlighten me. THANKS!View attachment DSCN6396.jpg
Help stop the "clicking"...
- Thread starter redrag64
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805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
does the signal cancel in both directions?? could be out of alignment??
The signal does cancel in both directions. The ring seems to sit flush on the backside of the wheel, and it seems like the teeth on the wheel and collumn would ensure that that stay square. I'm scratching my head.?.
Are you talking about the nuts/bolts that are at 12:00 and 6:00? If so, how do I know if if I am getting it back to square? Is there a trick, do i just count the rotations, or is it just trail and error? THANKS!
Not exactly. I was referring to the bolts that hold the column up to the dash. It really aint necessary to remove those and lower the column to replace the signal switch. Of course the switch does need to be properly positioned to sit flat and centered. Lets hope it doesn't have a wire pinched under it. Let us know what you find.
It's a repop from slant6dan. Doesn't seem like anyone else has has an issues with these switches. I've made sure that teir are no wires hitting on the backside of the switch and that the switch is seated properly, but still having the same issue. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Nope, never lowered the column, and I just made sure there are no wire being pinched. Still clicking.
slantsixdan
=..=
Interesting; new one on me. Haven't run into this and (to my knowledge) neither has anyone else who's bought one of these switches. Doesn't mean I don't believe you or anything like that, I'm just baffled what's up —*quality of these switches is very high and consistent; I haven't seen sloppy moulding or anything like that. You are quite sure everything went back in the correct order and the switch is fully seated?
Everyone seems to love these switches, so it would be a surprise if the switch itself is the issue. As far as I can tell, it all went back like it came out. I reseated the switch three times now, and it seems to be sitting flat. That metal tab on the backside of the steering whell is making contact with the top turn signal tab on the switch (only when turning left. Where's Columbo when you need him?
Here is a picture that shows a very slight difference between the tip of the turn signal switch of the new switch which is sort of cupped (on the bottom) versus the old switch which is pretty flat (on the top). Do you think this subtle difference could be the issue? THANKS!
805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
forgot the pic
I think shaft alignment will correct it. That upper bearing is a pitiful piece of crap when its brand new. Loosen the bolts that hold the column up. One left and one right behind the column cover and one of those may have 2 nuts on it. Possibly a 3rd bolt lower right depending on year model.
Shift the column left and right and watch the shaft position change.
I dont know what the spec is or what is too much play in that bearing. I do know they can rust, roar, squeak, and shorten the life of a signal switch.
Shift the column left and right and watch the shaft position change.
I dont know what the spec is or what is too much play in that bearing. I do know they can rust, roar, squeak, and shorten the life of a signal switch.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
I think you need to use the macro setting on the camera to get things in focus. What is that piece sticking down all the way to the edge of the bearing? Looks like and extra piece of plastic. Take a photo with the switch in neutral and your hand out of the way. Maybe a fresh set of eyes will help.
That actually is the macro setting. I think I need a better camera. The plastic piece on the bottom (by the bearing) is the new switch currently installed. The piece that I am holding is the same piece, just pulled off of the old switch. I was trying to show them side by side to show that there is a slight differerence in the shape of the two tips. I'm wondering if that little difference might be the issue.
slantsixdan
=..=
This is one of those things that I or another participant in this thread could probably get straightened out in a hurry if only we were local… :-(
cudamark
Well-Known Member
You're about 1 1/4-1 1/2 hours north of me if you want to drive it down here and let me take a look at it for you. If you can't, a clearer photo might help us do it here. Maybe get a little farther away using your macro setting or, if your camera allows, a manual setting to get it into focus.
View attachment DSCN1976.jpg
View attachment DSCN1977.jpg
This post is pretty much for slantsixdan, but I couldn't figure out how to attach pictures to a PM, so here it is. Anyone else can feel free to chime in (with advice, or just to moch me).
I actually got the clicking top stop (shaved less than 1/16the of an inch off of the head of the top turn signal cancel cam). But when I put it all back together, I had no turn signal or break light on the right side. I have no doubt that this is an issue I caused, and not an issue with the switch itself (before I worked my magic). I am pretty sure I knocked one of the connections (behind the signal cam) out of whack. So I popped the cam off, but I have no idea what the circuits/connections should look like. It looks quite a bit different than the old one I pull off. I'm guessing I need to start over with a new switch, but any sort of diagram or input would be greatly appreciated. THANKS!
View attachment DSCN1977.jpg
This post is pretty much for slantsixdan, but I couldn't figure out how to attach pictures to a PM, so here it is. Anyone else can feel free to chime in (with advice, or just to moch me).
I actually got the clicking top stop (shaved less than 1/16the of an inch off of the head of the top turn signal cancel cam). But when I put it all back together, I had no turn signal or break light on the right side. I have no doubt that this is an issue I caused, and not an issue with the switch itself (before I worked my magic). I am pretty sure I knocked one of the connections (behind the signal cam) out of whack. So I popped the cam off, but I have no idea what the circuits/connections should look like. It looks quite a bit different than the old one I pull off. I'm guessing I need to start over with a new switch, but any sort of diagram or input would be greatly appreciated. THANKS!
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