moparstud440
Well-Known Member
What high build primers do you like to use? Is it better to use one spray on via a paint gun vs a rattle can?
high build primer
- Thread starter moparstud440
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Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
2-parthigh build primer with spray gun. Many brands out there. Harbor freight sells decent cheap guns.
https://www.amazon.com/acme-Sherwin-Williams-Finish-Urethane-Primer/dp/B09DNLMTKB/?tag=fabo03-20
https://www.amazon.com/acme-Sherwin-Williams-Finish-Urethane-Primer/dp/B09DNLMTKB/?tag=fabo03-20
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I restored and prime and painted my two Darts with a cheap kit like this. My good guns are packed away and inaccessible right now. 1.8 tip for primer.
https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Professional-Regulator-Automotive-Touch-Up/dp/B0FNK7PRHS/?tag=fabo03-20
https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Professional-Regulator-Automotive-Touch-Up/dp/B0FNK7PRHS/?tag=fabo03-20
ir3333
Well-Known Member
what is it you are priming...the whole car, a door or hood?
moparstud440
Well-Known Member
The whole car. I have it torn apart now so was going to work on like the roof/qts now than later do the doors, fenders, hoods, truck lid as I have time.
ir3333
Well-Known Member
..a spray gun is the normal way and hi build primer may spray easier with a bigger 1.6 or 1.7 tip.
In winter i have primed single panels or sections with a high density roller. As long as you will be blocking
your panels the fine texture is no problem.Very easy with no masking, overspray or excessive fumes.
Eastwood have a convenient roll on system just for primers.
In winter i have primed single panels or sections with a high density roller. As long as you will be blocking
your panels the fine texture is no problem.Very easy with no masking, overspray or excessive fumes.
Eastwood have a convenient roll on system just for primers.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
Well, the OP asked what kind of high build primer we like. I like Evercoat Featherfill G2. I always use a 2.2 tip. You can use a 1.8 tip, but I would recommend reducing the mixed primer wit 5-10% Acetone (allowed by Evercoat). This is the best high build primer I have ever used. It sprays on nicely, it covers very nicely, it does not shrink and it sands easily. I always strip to bare metal, do major body work, clean and prep the metal and then spray on a few coats of epoxy primer. Then I do the minor body work with Evercoat Rage Gold Body filler on top of the epoxy. Then I spray 3 coats of G2. Then I block sand with Dura Block sanding blocks and 220, 320, and 400 dry. Then I wet sand with 320, 400 and 600. Then I spray sealer and paint. This primer covers even minor dents and ripples. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. Don't go cheap on primer. it is the base for your paint job.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Use a spray gun, not rattle cans. If you're going to strip the car down to bare metal, use epoxy primer first and then use high build over that. Auto paint supplies are expensive nowadays, so be prepared for a little sticker shock when you purchase. Evercoat and UPOL mentioned above are good products. I tend to use Southern Polyurethane primers and clears. I'm not a pro painter like @harrisonm , but just a hobbyist that enjoys doing my own work. I've used all 3 of the brands I just mentioned with good results, but have just gotten in the groove of ordering my primers and clear from SPI. Look on You Tube, for Paint Society channel. I've learned a lot of good tips and practices from Brian. Enjoy your project!
www.southernpolyurethanes.com
Automotive Refinishing | United States | Southern Polyurethanes
Southern Polyurethanes is a manufacturer of automotive coatings for the restoration, repair and custom markets. Epoxy Primers, Clear coats, Primers, Basecoat, Single Stage and more.
www.southernpolyurethanes.com
ir3333
Well-Known Member
i agree wit all above posts. I use CRE exclusively start to finish. If your body is rough sprayable polyester filler
is an easy way to "skim coat" I made my blocks out of cherry hardwood to straighten wavy panels.
is an easy way to "skim coat" I made my blocks out of cherry hardwood to straighten wavy panels.
ir3333
Well-Known Member
That looks great, a dart is very hard to straighten if the car is rough to begin with.
Well done!!
Well done!!
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
I agree that UPOL stuff is really good. I would be happy to try their primer, but I like the G2 so much, I am hesitant to try anything else. I did a lot of work to a badly damaged plastic front bumper facia on a car I was flipping once, and I needed to do a lot of filler work on it. U wound up using a UPOL flexible filler designed exactly for what I needed. It worked very well, sanded nicely and the resulting repairs looked great And tou are right; name brand products are not cheap, but you get what you pay for.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the glowing compliment, but I am not a pro painter. I am a just a serious hobbyist like you. I've been doing it for about 50 years, so I've gotten pretty good at it. I bet your paint work is just as good as mine. The secret, as you know, is being careful and NOT rushing all bodywork and prep. Then taking your time block sanding primer, and then not rushing the final paint job. I'd like to see some of your paint work.
ir3333
Well-Known Member
keep responding guys...there are probably lots of beginners like me listening!
340six
King Of Bling
Evercoat Slick Sand or Feather Fill depending on how much build yiu need.
Get all your panel fits to your satisfaction after you think you are done the metal work. After priming block sand everything at least twice using a guide coat....180 then 320. I used Dura Block sanding blocks but there are others. I did a lot of reading and watching Youtube (find the good channels) to learn how to do it properly.
LIKE HE SAID!!!!! tip size varies by that companies product!!!!!!
340six
King Of Bling
SlickSand Featherfill requires a large tip. I use a large tip like they say to use. Not only does it get tge materials on , it goes on smoothly.
If you look ar guys like the Clown Bad Chad. He uses a gun with to small a tip, high pressure and thinned out. Gets a rough surface He then has to use lots of materials and half is wasted. He could spray half as much or less and get a better job. I also use the old style 3-M disposable cup liner system. Saves clean up. Now that patients ran out even Harbor Freight , Amazon and eBay has refills.
This is a good 2.5 tip
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TMZJPKY?tag=fabo03-20
Still spray single stage, base and clear with my old Sharpe HVLP
340six
King Of Bling
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081HFFNV2?tag=fabo03-20
This is the same as the old version 1 3-M. System
This is the same as the old version 1 3-M. System
340six
King Of Bling
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081HFFNV2?tag=fabo03-20
This is the same as the old version 1 3-M. System
This is the same as the old version 1 3-M. System
Icetech
Well-Known Member
I need to do that... i still use a normal mixing cup then cup on the gun which is fun to keep clean...
ir3333
Well-Known Member
My first complete car paint job and i built a small paint booth in 1/2 the shop with a tarp curtain.
exhausting fumes with large fan can be difficult in cold weather so i only panel paint or prime sections at a time.
clean paint gun and reservoir cup each time...it works ok.
exhausting fumes with large fan can be difficult in cold weather so i only panel paint or prime sections at a time.
clean paint gun and reservoir cup each time...it works ok.
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