Holley Confusion

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Creedmoor

Recovering Fordaholic
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So I just did full blown rebuild on my ancient Holley 1850-3 (made in 1971 or 1981), ultrasonic cleaning, Holley TrickKit, the works. Still can’t tune it acceptably. Both primary and secondary shafts have play. I think it’s just worn the eff out. As a result, I’m looking at new Holleys but am somewhat confused on their offerings. My preferences are:

600 cfm
Electric choke
Vac secondaries
Would like a dichromate finish instead of shiney. Don’t think it’s available anymore though.

Going on a 68 Barracuda with a 318 with an auto trans and a trans go TF2 kit. Stock exhaust manifolds into full 2.5” dual exhaust with H pipe, Edelbrock Performer intake and a mild (RV) cam (PO claimed it was a Performer cam and lifters-is there such a cam?), stock distributor with Pertronix. Initial timing is at 15 degrees (always worked well).

Holley has four offerings that seem to meet my needs, but I can’t figure out what the difference between them is. They all seem to be based on the 4160. Price is pretty much the same. Can the Holley guys explain the differences and perhaps recommend one?

Classic (my initial preference - think it has center hung floats).
Street Warrior
Brawler
Slayer

I know an Eddy 1406 is what most will say I should get. I just like Holley.

Appreciate any and all advice. Thanks!
 
I like the Holley 625 Street Demon three barrel. Really nice carburetors. I have a 750 on my truck and it is flawless.
 
How much play is in the throttle shafts? I’ve only seen a couple that were worn out.

I’m not sure why you can’t tune it but unless the shafts are flopping around like socks on a rooster it ain’t that.
 
I was gonna suggest a holley refurbished. I might trust it more than a brand new one. Holley's qc of late hasn't been great.
I have a brawler that has been great, but mine is a race version 850 dp, a bit different than a 1850.
 
No Offense, just bolt on a 1406 Edelbrock and be done.

I don't like messing with carbs that don't work right. Got better things to do with my time.

Like fixing my main gate that some stranger decided to crash into.


20251204_141107.jpg


Cemented Post... tore out.
Hit and run, they just took off without coming up to the house. Bent the ship.. out of the gate too.


☆☆☆☆☆
 
George Jets said:
No Offense, just bolt on a 1406 Edelbrock and be done.

I don't like messing with carbs that don't work right. Got better things to do with my time.

Like fixing my main gate that some stranger decided to crash into.


View attachment 1716489217

Cemented Post... tore out.
Hit and run, they just took off without coming up to the house. Bent the ship.. out of the gate too.


☆☆☆☆☆
Click to expand...
Wow! That's just lame!
 
George Jets said:
No Offense, just bolt on a 1406 Edelbrock and be done.

I don't like messing with carbs that don't work right. Got better things to do with my time.

Like fixing my main gate that some stranger decided to crash into.


View attachment 1716489217

Cemented Post... tore out.
Hit and run, they just took off without coming up to the house. Bent the ship.. out of the gate too.


☆☆☆☆☆
Click to expand...


If you can’t tune a Holley you can’t tune any other carb.

Just damn. Because you can’t do it no one can.

Got it.
 
The best carb I ever put on a 318 was a Holley 9379 750. Someone once said, "Carter is where horsepower goes to die".
 

C’mon guys, this is a mild 318. With a 7-1/4 rear end and 2.76 gears I’ve already blown up twice. A double pumper isn’t what I need or want. Just want opinions on the four I listed.

I had discovered Holley’s refurb carb offerings a couple weeks ago and would like to save some cash, but the only 600 cfm carb in stock is a Street Warrior. But I don’t know how it compares to the other three I asked about.

The shafts on my current 1850 have a lot of slop. If carb cleaner is spayed near them the rpm’s go way up. It also never goes back to within 150 rpm of the original idle speed when the throttle is blipped. Transfer slots are square, mixture screws are 1.5 turns out and the floats are set correctly. I’ve been fighting with this thing long enough. I think a new carb is in order.

I would just like an opinion on the 4 carbs I asked about.

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Use an Edel carb. Much wider baseplate means support for the shafts is much greater, less wear.
 
Bewy said:
Use an Edel carb. Much wider baseplate means support for the shafts is much greater, less wear.
Click to expand...


How much load is on the throttle shaft?

Not much unless someone uses a barn door spring on the throttle lever to shut it. Or two of them.

They don’t just wear out.
 
Creedmoor said:
C’mon guys, this is a mild 318. With a 7-1/4 rear end and 2.76 gears I’ve already blown up twice. A double pumper isn’t what I need or want. Just want opinions on the four I listed.

I had discovered Holley’s refurb carb offerings a couple weeks ago and would like to save some cash, but the only 600 cfm carb in stock is a Street Warrior. But I don’t know how it compares to the other three I asked about.

The shafts on my current 1850 have a lot of slop. If carb cleaner is spayed near them the rpm’s go way up. It also never goes back to within 150 rpm of the original idle speed when the throttle is blipped. Transfer slots are square, mixture screws are 1.5 turns out and the floats are set correctly. I’ve been fighting with this thing long enough. I think a new carb is in order.

I would just like an opinion on the 4 carbs I asked about.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Then buy a new 600.
 
T/shafts can & do wear out. Often caused by the return spring arrangement. Some GM models were bad for this, but who knows how this old carb was set up in a previous life?
 
Throttle shafts definitely wear out. I had that issue with our old ‘55 Coronet and its original carb, but I had no idea the full history on that carb. It’s also an issue I’ve run into with old SU single barrel side draft carbs. Depending on the old carb model there are sometimes oversized throttle shafts or bushing set ups to solve the issue (ream throttle shaft bore, install bushings, install throttle shaft sized for bushings).

Haven’t had that issue with Holley 4 barrels but the only Holley’s I’ve run are new and haven’t seen that kind of mileage or time. But if there’s noticeable slop in the shafts that’s more than enough to cause a variable vacuum leak that creates all kinds of tuning issues.

As for the new carb thing Holley or Edelbrock doesn’t really matter, both will need tuning and all that matters is if the person tuning the carb knows one brand better than the other, either one can get that job done and they both has their pros and cons.

Just pick a Holley 600 that fits your requirements and run it if that’s what you want, should work just fine.
 
72bluNblu said:
Throttle shafts definitely wear out. I had that issue with our old ‘55 Coronet and its original carb, but I had no idea the full history on that carb. It’s also an issue I’ve run into with old SU single barrel side draft carbs. Depending on the old carb model there are sometimes oversized throttle shafts or bushing set ups to solve the issue (ream throttle shaft bore, install bushings, install throttle shaft sized for bushings).

Haven’t had that issue with Holley 4 barrels but the only Holley’s I’ve run are new and haven’t seen that kind of mileage or time. But if there’s noticeable slop in the shafts that’s more than enough to cause a variable vacuum leak that creates all kinds of tuning issues.

As for the new carb thing Holley or Edelbrock doesn’t really matter, both will need tuning and all that matters is if the person tuning the carb knows one brand better than the other, either one can get that job done and they both has their pros and cons.

Just pick a Holley 600 that fits your requirements and run it if that’s what you want, should work just fine.
Click to expand...

What do you think is causing the wear? Dirty driving environment? I know I’ve seen them worn out but some guys run enough return spring that at a cruise your leg starts to throb because the pedal is pushing back on your foot so hard.

Come to think of it, I don’t think I’ve ever seen worn throttle shafts with billet base plates. The few I’ve seen were zinc or whatever materiel Holley used back in the day. They were pretty soft.
 
Creedmoor said:
C’mon guys, this is a mild 318. With a 7-1/4 rear end and 2.76 gears I’ve already blown up twice. A double pumper isn’t what I need or want. Just want opinions on the four I listed.

I had discovered Holley’s refurb carb offerings a couple weeks ago and would like to save some cash, but the only 600 cfm carb in stock is a Street Warrior. But I don’t know how it compares to the other three I asked about.

The shafts on my current 1850 have a lot of slop. If carb cleaner is spayed near them the rpm’s go way up. It also never goes back to within 150 rpm of the original idle speed when the throttle is blipped. Transfer slots are square, mixture screws are 1.5 turns out and the floats are set correctly. I’ve been fighting with this thing long enough. I think a new carb is in order.

I would just like an opinion on the 4 carbs I asked about.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Put a Rochester spreadbore on it! They work great on the asthmatic low end of the 318.
 
It’s easy to tell if the shafts are leaking air, they either are and causing a problem or they’re not. With the engine running grab the primary throttle linkage and wiggle it hard while keeping it in contact with the idle stop screw. If the rpm changes the shaft is leaking. Holley sells bushing kits to fix that. For your engine a 600 classic 1850 vs will be a perfect driver carb. Classic has no adjustable air bleeds or emulsion or anything else, Just jets. Forget the slayer and brawler they are borrowed from the quick fuel line and for your application not necessary. The street warrior is a similar carb to the classic 1850 but is in a shiny modern finish. If I were in your position I’d use a 3310 750vs with electric choke. My 318 ran killer with that carb. You’ll have to tune whatever carb you put on there so pick one that you’re comfortable with.
 
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