Holley Sniper EFI

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Johnny Pace said:
It will accept the simple 2 wire module if you want to try that.
TSP-JM6919 Ignition Distributor Magnetic Pickup for 6600 & 7600 series Distributors

i have one apart on my desk. You'll have to disassemble it, but it does go in. (knock out roll pin, and pull out circuit board, and then bolt in the simple pickup)
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Aussiemopars said:
Should be able to make one so long as they haven't used custom plugs, I haven't looked at my unit yet, $50 for a lead is a bit steep.
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Aussiemopars said:
Should be able to make one so long as they haven't used custom plugs, I haven't looked at my unit yet, $50 for a lead is a bit steep.
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I am wishing I went the other way I bought a Sniper and MSD distributor with adjustable rotor also running six AL box and MSD coil. Hooked it up without timing control per instructions ran pretty good but couldn't control the idol called Holly they sent me a IAC valve. While I was waiting for that I converted over to timing control locked out the distributor adjusted the rotor. Now I can control the idol but it runs for a while and just shuts off it turns back on backfires through the mufflers goes for a while shut it self off over and over again Till it dies starts back up dies when i come to a stop I barely make it back home. I could start it in the garage and it idols and runs OK for a while once I start going down the road it starts barking like a bronco I've blown the exhaust seal out of my exhaust manifold from all the backfires I have called Holly at least eight times sent them pictures of my wiring sent them a video of the handheld when it happens. The TPS goes red shows -20 or -40 and the O2 sensor changes to heating when it turns itself off voltage stays steady. Then it turns itself back on and runs a little bit longer I have stomped it in between and it runs up through the gear just fine soon as I come back down to a 35 mile an hour cruise it starts shutting itself on and off
Maybe I should've bought the FItech unit
 
I have read all the FItech reviews on the Facebook page. That's why I went with Sniper I thought Holley would have better tech-support. Holly has also sent me a TPS they said it should never go negative but it still does. Chevelle.com also has a good blog on Snipers and one of the guys there has my exact same problem he manually set some of the timing parameters and did away with adjustable rotor it seems to have fixed his that doesn't make any sense to me.
 
If any of this came from me, you're welcome to refresh my memory in an email or PN, and we can go over what you have, and see if there are any glaring issues. I do have direct contacts at holley... First real issue i have heard of with the sniper.
 
Johnny Pace said:
If any of this came from me, you're welcome to refresh my memory in an email or PN, and we can go over what you have, and see if there are any glaring issues. I do have direct contacts at holley... First real issue i have heard of with the sniper.
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No sir this did not come from you. I wish I did buy it from you and thank you very much for trying to help me with it.
 
mr65cuda said:
No sir this did not come from you. I wish I did buy it from you and thank you very much for trying to help me with it.
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no problem. As discussed on the phone, sent you a picture of the coil driver. it should be in there. if not call holley or the jokers that sold you the unit :)
eliminate the box to make sure its not your noise source, and go from there. also double check your rotor phasing before trying again.
 
I finally made some progress on the install this weekend and after a few issues with fuel fittings and the corvetter fuel pressure regulator/filter I managed to get the unit to the point were I have installed the engine parameters and am now in the process of trying to start for the first time. I called it a night tonight after the engine tried to start and a puff of white smoke came out of the unit when the key was returned to the run position, maybe a timing issue?? I'm trying to start the engine with the timing control added. I'll check the timing again tomorrow. I found the instructions weren't very clear and I have had to connect both pink wires, the one from the igniter unit and the one from the main harness.
 
Well what a difference a day makes. After fixing the timing light 'cos of dropping it in a bucket of coolant, I hooked it up to check the timing and turned the engine over by bridging the starter solenoid with a screwdriver. To my surprise... it fired straight away. Haha... I don't know what we did last night for it not to start, but at least it's running now. It is a little skittish and is mostly idling at 750-800 rpm after I set it for 750. IAC is happily doing it's job at about 50% and is doing a great job of controlling the idle. I had to re-adjust the timing and will have to re-check the rotor phasing and then button everything up and start the fun part of the tuning... driving the hell out of it. I'm pretty happy so far.
 
So the problem I had is repeating itself again, only this time I got the car started. The engine goes to start and then as the key is backed off the engine tries to catch to run and coughs up white smoke. After the 3rd time I tried it, it caught and started running and idling. The IAC when it starts is at 100% which makes a loud sucking air sound and it settles down to 40% as the engine temp warms up, air noise goes away as well.
 
Aussiemopars said:
So the problem I had is repeating itself again, only this time I got the car started. The engine goes to start and then as the key is backed off the engine tries to catch to run and coughs up white smoke. After the 3rd time I tried it, it caught and started running and idling. The IAC when it starts is at 100% which makes a loud sucking air sound and it settles down to 40% as the engine temp warms up, air noise goes away as well.
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Try adjusting the butterflies to be a bit more open, and then reset the unit so tps gets zero'd out. Also check rotor phasing was the correct way. What's your initial timing at?
(Got your email but it won't open for some reason)
 
Hi Johnny, I'm still having a few issues, haven't been able to play with the car much due to bad weather here. I'm looking at replacing the manifold with a single plane one I had in the shed, going to see if it makes a difference. I noticed too, when I make adjustments with the SD card out and on the computer software, I go to put the SD card back in the car and some of the new settings that I changed don't seem to take. Do I need to make these adjustments with the USB dongle to the Sniper unit while in the car?
 
Changes should be saving, even w/o the dongle. I don't think a dual plane intake is your issue at all. Where is holley at with this? I put you in touch with their tech, and was hoping they could straighten this out. They should have more knowledge than me on the baseline adjustments. The holley rep and I both pointed to timing being the culprit, and i know i responded to some emails of yours with what idle and cruise timing settings to adjust. Did anything come of that?
 
Yeah Woody was supposed to get back to me after he got back from holidays today, by the time I get the new manifold on he should be back online.
I wasn't able to adjust the idle anymore, I set the timing at 15 deg and the warm idle at 750 rpm, turned off the idle spark control and checked the timing on the crank. Both the crank and the sniper controller are on 15 deg so that is synced, can't get the idle below 850 now. At least the headers aren't glowing now. if I turn the idle spark on it gradually starts pulling timing out and the idle comes down towards the target of 750 rpm, but then the headers start glowing again. I'm thinking there might be a vacuum leak as well somewhere.
 
Yeah, i can't help with a vacuum leak via the keyboard. I'd try to bump timing up to 20 initial and see if it likes it. and leave the idle control out of it as you have. Again i think you're just throwing ideas at the wall with the manifold swap, but if you have a vac leak, you may correct it in the process. Try to email woody again, and if you want my input, its extremely important for you to CC me, even if he doesn't. Keep in mind if i can't see what you guys tried or talked about, I'm jumping into the middle of it completely unknowing every time. i want to get it going for you, just tough to do w/o all the info.
 
Yeah I'll keep you in the loop by posting on here as well as CC on emails.
Any idea what the static timing setting should be on? I've put the cranking timing on 10 just to make it a bit easier to start.
 
I've solved the issues I've had recently. I gave the motor a wash and apparently it's a bad idea to get any moisture near the TPS. From the symptoms presented - TPS not zeroing and an eratic/non responsive IAC - I replaced both and now its settled. I narrowed it down to the TPS getting moisture in it. Apparently its a common problem so I thought I would post it up.
 
I bought Holley cause if it needs parts down the road holley is more likely to still be around. Still got to install it.
 
It's good that they used GM style sensors, they are a direct replacement by the looks, the TPS and the IAC I know are the same now.
 
I don't know what there is to think about Bob. I'm still using a dual plane manifold at the moment and have the single plane on the shelf ready to go if need be, haven't needed to change it yet. No issues with the dual plane. By the looks, the sensors that Holley use are el cheapo one's.
 
Aussiemopars said:
I don't know what there is to think about Bob. I'm still using a dual plane manifold at the moment and have the single plane on the shelf ready to go if need be, haven't needed to change it yet. No issues with the dual plane. By the looks, the sensors that Holley use are el cheapo one's.
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I watched a video of a comparison between the manifolds. Don`t remember where or who, but the engine cleaned up and ran better w/ a single plane. My throttle body is bigger than a dual plane opening, no question for me ! Not arguing w/ anyone that, "I`m sure knows more about it than me" ! My setup is a fast 2.0 , I haven`t had any of these problems, and Dave and the guys at Fast (comp cams) have been very friendly, and answered all my questions/ great tech support. Yeah theirs is a little pricey, but comes w/ everything needed for the average install., no need to go hunting corvette parts or anything else. the biggest thing is their timing controlled dist. is based off a chevy, and very short. It requires a but load of clearanceing if u run aftermarket alum. heads. Not that this has anything to do w/ u, but I`d go single plane anyway if it were me,--- JMO.
 
In the Holley forms they say if the intake has a divider all the way to the top. Either a open spacer or cut down the divider some or a single plane.
 
273 said:
In the Holley forms they say if the intake has a divider all the way to the top. Either a open spacer or cut down the divider some or a single plane.
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273: I Have read A TON about the sniper, and the fitech. I wouldnt overthink the manifold issue. As you stated, holley just recommends a spacer, and fitech states their unit doesnt much care. You guys even have a vendor here helping with the same thoughts above.

In general: Im missing why the fast unit keeps being referenced in the sniper and fitech threads. It is not a fitech, or a sniper. It isnt designed the same, uses different psi fuel, has an external ecu, its much less forgiving...its just not the same. The fast is 10 years behind the others.

I dont see a point in jumping in with how you set holley carb floats everytime someone brings up edelbrock metering rods.
 
273 said:
In the Holley forms they say if the intake has a divider all the way to the top. Either a open spacer or cut down the divider some or a single plane.
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I've had the Sniper with a dual plane for almost a year now and have no problems because of the manifold.
The thing with Holley though is when you talk to tech support they are inconsistent. One tells you use the spacer and the next time you call they say not too. Before I installed my unit i called and asked about the spacer and i was told, not need, don't use it. Based on that I never tired it and its been fine. I had a few other issues and had the same kind of problems with support, different answer every time you call.
 
dgibby said:
I've had the Sniper with a dual plane for almost a year now and have no problems because of the manifold.
The thing with Holley though is when you talk to tech support they are inconsistent. One tells you use the spacer and the next time you call they say not too. Before I installed my unit i called and asked about the spacer and i was told, not need, don't use it. Based on that I never tired it and its been fine. I had a few other issues and had the same kind of problems with support, different answer every time you call.
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Im gonna be installing mine this winter.
Right now I have the M1 single plane.
But in the summer Im switching to airgap, Ya I was only gonna put a spacer if needed.

Does your manifold have zero crossover in its divider ?
 
273 said:
Im gonna be installing mine this winter.
Right now I have the M1 single plane.
But in the summer Im switching to airgap, Ya I was only gonna put a spacer if needed.

Does your manifold have zero crossover in its divider ?
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Not sure on the crossover. It is an airgap.
 
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