Hood coil spring unwound

-

glhx

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
690
Reaction score
48
Location
Middle Tennessee
For years I’ve popped the hood of my 69 dart. It’s always sagged on one side.

I took the fender off the driver side to find out why.

The coil spring is there and attached. However, it’s unwound.
I haven’t been able to get it wound back up to where it’s got tension.

Is there a trick to getting this done so both sides go up evenly
 
Show a pic, there is supposed to be a "keeper/spring washer" on the post to "hopefully" hold it on.
There was a thread on here a while back about this.
 
There is a how-to on putting it back on.

Basically there is no large amount of preload.

 
Last edited:
I’m just trying to get that hook rotated back to the stud. 180 degrees.

I thought about cutting a slot in a socket and using a breaker bar to move it back. Which would still be pretty complicated.

6B7C6E82-1DCB-43A0-83AC-C103ED3129C7.jpeg
 
Make sure the hinge is in the "up" position
 
I’m just trying to get that hook rotated back to the stud. 180 degrees.

I thought about cutting a slot in a socket and using a breaker bar to move it back. Which would still be pretty complicated.

View attachment 1716021626
I had one do that on the Wife’s Dart.
The center stud came loose and spun.
Had to take the assembly off and weld the stud back in position, then put the spring back on it. (Lots of fun)
They have a pretty good preload on them.
Putting it back on I drilled the mounting studs and used a washer/cotter pin instead of the OE press on washers.
 
I’m just trying to get that hook rotated back to the stud. 180 degrees.

Your tool needs to be inline with the spring so that you have leverage. I believe I used regular vice grips on the tab where yours is and pulled following the coil around then tapped it on the pin with a hammer. There is supposed to be a cap that taps onto the pin and grips it once it's home.
 
Make sure the hinge is in the "up" position
This is what the hinge should look like in the up position.

Screenshot_20221213-110921.png
when the hinge is closed there is A LOT of load on the spring.

In the up position maybe an inch or so of movement to get it on
 
You can't use an old fashioned pair of brake spring pliers?
 
I did this with the fender still on the car. Went in between the passenger area and the open door with a strap. Looped part around the spring and ratcheted it back into place. Pushed it on with a big screwdriver between the door and fender.
Temporarily in place with a duct strap until I can weld a washer on the end.
(Kept popping off - will not stay on)

112DF350-06FE-4035-829E-C0798C9C9114.jpeg


58975056-32CA-480D-83EB-C7EA75C95896.jpeg
 
I’m going to try some of these things tomorrow or when I can. I’ll post back. What I did to get it to go one.

I like the cotter pin and washer idea. Seems like it might work pretty well.

The fender is mostly off now.
 
I’m going to try some of these things tomorrow or when I can. I’ll post back. What I did to get it to go one.

I like the cotter pin and washer idea. Seems like it might work pretty well.

The fender is mostly off now.
Yes, split pin and washer is definitely the go!
 
That video posted. with the vice grips and the crescent wrench.

it took 1 try and went as fast as the video showed. It worked great.

it took me a couple of hours trying different things.

that method took 2 minutes.

I did have to hammer the hook part off the vice grips like the video showed.

I used a c clamp to press the spring into its slot in the center.
 
So now there is the decision to use a washer and cotter pin.

or go back with the factory method.

does anyone know where to get a cap for the factory method???
 
it looks like it’s called an axle hat nut or a type of push cap nut.
made to go on 1 time and not come off. Used for radio flyer wagons. Size is 1/2” and fits very tight on there.

the one on top and bottom are the same size. It was also used for wagon wheels. It also moved 1/2“
the internal tooth ring washers from lowes…….
did not fit.


id like to go back factory style with this

6A0585BF-A3FD-49BB-9668-6141B7803835.jpeg


D90A8F5A-487A-47CB-8715-55F76D9122F0.jpeg


35CE8350-A1E7-4D90-92AE-737450BC0A0B.jpeg


04C10E64-1140-4252-8556-0E3CB437D4CA.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Big channel locks + vice. Takes about 10 seconds with little effort. They sell the 1/2" ID (15/16" OD) push washers on Ebay for $10.00 for a pack of 15.

Resized-20220614-185603.jpg
 
The hat nut fit really well.

the push washers from lowes did not fit. They were too loose

I was able to attach the hood and check it.

in the beginning. I was cautious. The hood wouldn’t go down. I had to work it some, to get the print to work. I think it had been so long not connected, that it became stiff. it did go down though
 
So now there is the decision to use a washer and cotter pin.

or go back with the factory method.

does anyone know where to get a cap for the factory method???
Use the washer and pin method, much better!
 
-
Back
Top