Hopefully not a dumb question.

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73 Duster 360

73 Duster 360

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I know there are about of threads on here regarding fuel gauges and sending unit and all the problems that can arise with OEM sending units.

Here is my potentially dumb question that I've been unable to find an answer too...

If I replace both my fuel gauge AND my sending unit with OEM replacements will the linear ohm issue still be a problem or will an OEM gauge properly read the signal from an OEM sending unit?

I ask because a lot of the threads on here seem to be from folks trying to keep the original gauge and just replace the sending unit. I happen to already have a brand new in the box OEM gauge that looks original and a stock gauge that suddenly reads empty all the time. Since accurate sending units are so difficult to find I'm curious if my potential solution of replacing both would work.

Any info would be appreciated.
 
I would imagine if your replacing both parts with OEM mopar parts, you shouldn't have any problem. The issues have always been with the inaccuracy of the aftermarket sender unit.
 
As Moparmat2000 said..

OEM MOPAR Parts.

Don't confuse reproduction parts that are for sale by aftermarket suppliers (usually Chinese manufactured) with original equipment parts made by Mopar. Also. make sure the unit is grounded properly. A quick check is to take a lead with alligator clips on each end, connect on side to the tank and the other to the chassis of the car. Should eliminate a grounding problem with the sending unit.
 
You're going to have a difficult time finding OEM Chrysler parts.

That said, I always chuckle to myself when guys ***** about the accuracy issues of new parts. Here's the thing. Like everything electronic and Chrysler.......it SUCKED. All those factory gauges are just approximations at best. Just to give the driver a general idea of what's goin on. The biggest thing to "ME" is knowing where empty is. As long as that's pretty accurate, I'm good. Best thing to do there is carry a can of gas in the trunk and run it out. That way you'll KNOW where NOT to move the gauge to again. lol
 
don't overlook the fact that the float could have sunk if it's reading empty all the time.
" Back in the day " when these cars were just cars we used to get 1 or 2 a year in with a crack in the float where it clips onto the sender arm.
in which case all you need is a float...
 
motorpirate said:
don't overlook the fact that the float could have sunk if it's reading empty all the time.
" Back in the day " when these cars were just cars we used to get 1 or 2 a year in with a crack in the float where it clips onto the sender arm.
in which case all you need is a float...
Click to expand...

I dont think u can buy a correct built sending unit these days , I replaced all my stuff and it still dont work, even tried the aftermarket voltage reducer thing ----??
 
Alright a lot to consider. I just got the car. Had one in my 20s and always regretted selling it. The guy I bought it from says he replaced the tank and sending unit and the gauge stopped working. So he put an aftermarket gauge and it just reads empty all the time.

On the way home about 82 miles total, it ran out of gas after about 60 miles. When I got to the gas station it only took 10 gallons before it over spilled. The guy says he replaced the tank with a 16 gallon tank but the carburetor was bone dry and would not squirt when the pedal was pressed after it "ran out of gas"

So with all that said anyone have any ideas on what steps I should take. I can definitely check the ground pretty easily.
 
Something may have happened to the pickup when it was installed, maybe bent when it was installed and not at the bottom of tank. Hopefully it was the right pickup to begin with.
 
The wife says I should take it to the shop have them take the tank down look at it tell me what it needs. It's just hard to find mechanics you can trust. But at the same time having read a lot of threads on here about people experiencing problems with their sending units and the poor calibration of aftermarket units as well as not having the original to compare I am tempted to go to the shop.
 
Your second sentence tells it all. That's why I do as much work as I can, it seems like I'm the only one I can trust.
 
First, here is a video on checking gauges for an E-body. Same procedure for any Mopar though. Second it is never a good practice to let the fuel level get below 1/4 tank unless on a trip where it can't be avoided. Also download a Factory Service Manual if you don't already have one. Here is a link for that also.

Service Manuals – MyMopar
 
In my quest to find a good sender I have done many run it out of gas tests.

One sender "ran out" with 3 gallons in an 18 gallon tank. The tube needs to be bent down so the pickup is at or mush closer to the bottom of the tank.

As to accuracy... The shape of the tank, and the needed curve of the guage dictates the curve of the sender.
Look at the chart in this post
Product Review: A100 Fuel Sender For 67 Dart
 
MoparLeo said:
First, here is a video on checking gauges for an E-body. Same procedure for any Mopar though. Second it is never a good practice to let the fuel level get below 1/4 tank unless on a trip where it can't be avoided. Also download a Factory Service Manual if you don't already have one. Here is a link for that also.

Service Manuals – MyMopar
Click to expand...

Thanks for the links! Helpful.
 
Dana67Dart said:
In my quest to find a good sender I have done many run it out of gas tests.

One sender "ran out" with 3 gallons in an 18 gallon tank. The tube needs to be bent down so the pickup is at or mush closer to the bottom of the tank.

As to accuracy... The shape of the tank, and the needed curve of the guage dictates the curve of the sender.
Look at the chart in this post
Product Review: A100 Fuel Sender For 67 Dart
Click to expand...
Thank you so much.
 
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