how do i remove these drums?

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diymirage

diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
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so I picked up an A body 8 3/4 rear end the other day and it has 10 inch drums on it (I think)
they are the bell type drums

i backed off the adjusters to loosen the shoes up and when i put a screwdriver between the backing plate and the drum i can wiggle it but they refuse to come off
it almost seems like the drum is still attached at the very center of the axle

there is a cap in there (hard to explain, ill try to post pics tonight)
is there any chance this is threaded?

of do i just need a bigger hammer?
 
Sounds like it is struck around the center of the axle. Common point for rust to accumulate. Spray PBlaster around where the drum center hole slides over the axle and give it a few sharp whacks with a large hammer. It should loosen up.
 
if it is rusted on there the rust is bad enough that i can not discern where the hub ends and the axle starts
that's why i wondered if it might have a screw on cap or something
(ill post a pic soon)

thanks
 
Is there a big nut in the center? Hopefully it's not an early tapered axle rear. That would suck.
 
could be a nut, i hope not (sorry, couldn't resist)

if it is a nut i need one of them tools to open 50 gallon drums




it does seem to slowly be getting looser

ive been spraying it wth WD40 (don't have the PBandJ blaster)

i just wanted to make sure i don't brake it (again, sorry for the bad pun)
 
Have you backed off the adjusters?

If the drum is stuck to the shoes, I would try grinding the head off the nails in the back that go to the round springs that hold the shoes to the backing plate.

Then pry the brake drums with a long pry bar...
 
Follow Rusty's recommendation and soak the hub to drum area with penetrating oil and hit the drum with a hammer to loosen it. Do yourself a favor next time you're at the parts store or Wally world. Get yourself a can of PB Blaster. WD is fish oil and stops squeaks.
 
Yup. Spray HELL out of that piece stickin out of the center all the way around with PBlaster then smack the face of the drum in 90* rotations all the way around hard. It will loosen up and come off. Looks like it's stuck pretty good.
 
Spray penetration oil on all studs too while turning the drum to get the most you can...
The back of the drum can rust to the axle face !!!
If the drum move in and out some without coming off then cut the hold down pins like
krazykuda suggested.
 
allright guys

i will keep at it

Krazykuda, i did actually loosen up the adjuster
i ran into Bruce (bad sport) over at mopars at the red barns and he shared that little tidbit of advice with me (amongst other things)

and i will put the PB blaster on the list


on the bright side, i can definitely see a little progress in it
the seam between the drum and the hub is now becoming apparent
 
I pry the hold down pins out enough with a small screw driver to get some dykes under it and cut the heads off and be done with it.
Hardware kit will be in order anyway !!!
 
TXDart said:
I pry the hold down pins out enough with a small screw driver to get some dykes under it and cut the heads off and be done with it.
Hardware kit will be in order anyway !!!
Click to expand...

might not be a bad idea but i really don't think it is hanging up on the shoes
it seems to just be sticking on the hub
 
Look at this way if the drum is worn you will have a ridge on inside where the shoes do not hit...if you can move it back and forth some, the shoe are hitting the ridge and will not come off....
 
Maybe try to heat the center of the drum with a propane torch, then give the drum a few good hard whacks with a BFH, then spray more PB blaster on it, then whack it some more... :violent1: :violent1: :violent1:

Keep whacking it off until it comes free... :violent1: :glasses7:
 
Ya what he said keep whacking it off with plenty lubrication till done !!!
I prefer cut heads with Dykes though.......
 
Plenty of whacking with a 2.5 pounder, or the air-hammer(which usually works very quickly).
Also on stubborn cases I whack vertically about every 2 to 3 inches around the perimeter. This seems to pound the rust out. I also wire wheel the narrow exposed part of the axle flange before I start,and again after the drum pops off.
 
If it seems to be sticking in the center, "it's rust." Use wire brush, etc, to clean / scrub / scrape that off. Penetrating oil. If not heat the drum in a pie shape area to cause the drum hole to enlarge.

be sure it's not the shoes catching on a worn ridge. If so, as suggested above, cut the "nails" off around the back of the backing plates
 
yes, wire brush the center hub & lug nuts off. also pound around the diameter --though not as hard as the center. if you have air --blow out the debris you created.

I use 2 ball pein hammers of the large variety one next to the surface & the other to strike the hammer-- this does not mar the brake drum as much.

hammer around the center in a circle-- pattern work your way from the inside diameter to the outside(stay on he flange area)
Take a break & use a smaller hammer & tap lighly around the whole drum-- you might be surprised & it will just "pop" then slide it off.
REPEAT
Lawrence
 
I would use heat in conjunction with the PB blaster and a BFH.
Clean as much rust scale and debris as you can away from where the axle and drum meet, spray a good amount of the penetrating fluid on the axle studs and where the drum meets the axle, heat the drum evenly between the studs and the axle ''big end'' flange in the middle evenly, a very dull red at the most.
Strike the top of the drum firmly, and work your whacks 90 degrees from each other, and it will come loose.
Don't beat it enough to break the drum, but firmly.
Wear gloves, or you will burn yourself!
A screwdriver between the backing plate and the drum pried toward you might help some when hitting it.
I would also suggest that you put a lug nut on by a couple of threads so if it suddenly lets go, it won't end up in your lap or face and stay on the axle.
It's amazing what a little heat will do in conjunction with the penetrating oil.
Brake lines are the worst........
 
When your banging on those drums don't forget to wear safety glasses.
Here's my persuader for them sticky drums............
 

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There's probably rust around the studs as well.
You could wack those back a quarter or half an inch, this would free up the drum's movement around the hub too.
Use a block of hardwood between the studs and hammer if you want to save them.
 
Don't get too froggy beating the drum with a hammer, unless you plan to replace it! Clean with wire brush, heat with propane torch, soak with PB. Lather, rinse, repeat.
 
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