Do you have trouble getting the axles out,if so its pretty bent otherwise jig it and have them brace it while there or move to a dana or something,thats where i'm at but that 8 3/4 still going 10.70's @ 3450lbs and i'm not sure if you said but some aftermarket axles would be in order as well but i understand about a budget only so much to go around
How do you get a Suspension to hook, when the track surface is marginal at best
- Thread starter Cudafever
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Cope
Fusing with fire
I was surprised at how cheep good axles are. Summit brand with a ton of holes drilled in the face are 300 each. Strange sells sets of custom made axles, no extra holes, bad ***, not cut to length China carp with bearings and retainer plates for 700.
Guess where my axles are coming from? (Not summit)
Guess where my axles are coming from? (Not summit)
Dr Diff for $295?
Cope
Fusing with fire
405.00
With studs, bearings and plates.
Strange Alloy Axle Package Axle Bearings & Wheel Studs 35 Spline
My bad, that's with out plates..
With studs, bearings and plates.
Strange Alloy Axle Package Axle Bearings & Wheel Studs 35 Spline
My bad, that's with out plates..
yup that's where my axles came from. Bought then last year. look like there going it, This winter.
No i have never had a problem getting the axles in or out. but the last time i pull a axle in was 5 years ago.
they are the stock chry axes in there and when i put my 4.56 gears in i made a white paint mark all the way across the axles. Will be interesting to see how much the axle shafts have twisted up!
Cope
Fusing with fire
Just watched your video.
Shocks look old as (they done), your springs are DONE, your leaking oil out the diff and your slicks look older than my grandma...
If you look at your video it looks like wheel hop when you walk your burnout. Shocks are dead.... also looks like not a clean stripe it heavy on the inside. (Bent housing?)
So you got slicks not sitting flat, bad shocks, a leaky dif, old rubber, old springs and maybe a bad housing...
Start changing the cheaper stuff first and work up to what you can afford.
I think you will see it get better just with some new shocks...
On the positive side your car sounds GREAT!
Shocks look old as (they done), your springs are DONE, your leaking oil out the diff and your slicks look older than my grandma...
If you look at your video it looks like wheel hop when you walk your burnout. Shocks are dead.... also looks like not a clean stripe it heavy on the inside. (Bent housing?)
So you got slicks not sitting flat, bad shocks, a leaky dif, old rubber, old springs and maybe a bad housing...
Start changing the cheaper stuff first and work up to what you can afford.
I think you will see it get better just with some new shocks...
On the positive side your car sounds GREAT!
Thanks. I like the sound of it myself.
At this point SS Spring will be ordered next week. as well as a housing stiffener.
I will have new slicks just haven't decide if i'm sticking with the 26x10x15 or step up to 28X10.5X15 (I will have to buy wheel with the right backspace to get then in there.....not sure it is in the budget)
New Racing axles.
And yes i will be fixing my pinion seal and installing a better pinion. or, i will be replacing the the chunk with taller gears.
Taller tires, or taller gears! haven't decided yet.
Shocks? we will see when the axle housing comes out.
At this point SS Spring will be ordered next week. as well as a housing stiffener.
I will have new slicks just haven't decide if i'm sticking with the 26x10x15 or step up to 28X10.5X15 (I will have to buy wheel with the right backspace to get then in there.....not sure it is in the budget)
New Racing axles.
And yes i will be fixing my pinion seal and installing a better pinion. or, i will be replacing the the chunk with taller gears.
Taller tires, or taller gears! haven't decided yet.
Shocks? we will see when the axle housing comes out.
Cope
Fusing with fire
If your housing IS bent welding the back brace on will pretty much make it bent forever.
Yup but i don't think it is bent and a back brace before is a good idea. I don't weld but i have a friend that does.
If he "stitch welds" it SLOW i hope it don't warp.
That's the plan any ways.
Cope
Fusing with fire
I just did a back brace today.
I layed out the welds in one inch sections.
Welded right side tube bottom right, then left side tube top right side. Then right side tube top second weld, then left side top second weld. Then right side bottom center, ectera.
I was also cooling the housing with compressed air. Not on the hot welds but you do want to be able to touch the housing at all times. Dont get it hot...
I layed out the welds in one inch sections.
Welded right side tube bottom right, then left side tube top right side. Then right side tube top second weld, then left side top second weld. Then right side bottom center, ectera.
I was also cooling the housing with compressed air. Not on the hot welds but you do want to be able to touch the housing at all times. Dont get it hot...
I disagree with this idea of not to run one because they weren’t designed to use one. Reason being, at a stock spring level, there is a snubber. And most engines of the era were not strong enough to “NEED” a snubbed but yet the cars cams with them. Of the cars that had the engine to bend the spring to make use of the snubber, the Chrysler design worked.
Now with the SS springs, the arc is changed but the possible need for them remains the same. The Sox & Martin adjustable pinion snubber (now a MP part) is suggested for use with manual trans cars at a 1/2 inch to a 0 distance from the contact point. Not preloaded.
There use on automatic cars isn’t exactly needed (as MP writes) but suggested for safety & extremes @ 1 - 2 inches.
Just for the record.. before the CalTracs made their debut (1990?), there were LOTS of guys in Stock Eliminator with shivi's and phords (even John Calvert) running Mopar SS springs. None of them used a snubber. (that I know of..) Just sayin..[/QUOTE]
While probably true (not arguing!) Did they run the Chrysler rear in the GM/Ford car? I have seen Chevies back in the day run the Chrysler banjo rear & SS springs (as well as swapped in 727’s.)
Never a Ford though....
But! As I was getting to... the GM rear has no provision for a snubber. IDK about a Ford rear.
The springs are pretty good alone as well a little better when the front half is clamped and the rear half is set free. (Unclamped)
make sure the shock can travel further than the housing so you know its not running out of travel and unload the tires and also check the length of your rear brake hose with the housing hanging, and check your shock to brace clearance,this is after you get the new stuff in of course, you may be seeing more rise out the back esp if you unclamp the rear leafs
These are things that i will be checking for sure.
Funny thing about the brake lines. Was under my car deciding the process of removing it all and look at the brake line going Hmmm.
It don't matter, because i have some braided line that will be replacing that old rubber hose that is a little bit longer.
Still, need to verify coming apart and going together.
As far as the pinion snubber, I have it, i will use it.
I can't wait to get my new SS Spring, and lay them next to my old ones just to see how bad the front segment arch is bent.(You can't bend a spring backward without first removing the arch) I'm hoping, at least that it is real bad. that way i know where my "nose down", pinion angle when, and will feel better that my housing is not damaged!!!!!
The springs are pretty good alone as well a little better when the front half is clamped and the rear half is set free. (Unclamped)
I have never remove the back half spring clamps because i have see then move. And i don't have enough tire clearance to take that chance.
I may have to come up with a compromise......
Funny thing about the brake lines. Was under my car deciding the process of removing it all and look at the brake line going Hmmm.
It don't matter, because i have some braided line that will be replacing that old rubber hose that is a little bit longer.
Still, need to verify coming apart and going together.
As far as the pinion snubber, I have it, i will use it.
I can't wait to get my new SS Spring, and lay them next to my old ones just to see how bad the front segment arch is bent.(You can't bend a spring backward without first removing the arch) I'm hoping, at least that it is real bad. that way i know where my "nose down", pinion angle when, and will feel better that my housing is not damaged!!!!!
The springs are pretty good alone as well a little better when the front half is clamped and the rear half is set free. (Unclamped)
I have never remove the back half spring clamps because i have see then move. And i don't have enough tire clearance to take that chance.
I may have to come up with a compromise......
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Imo I would just start with them as they come or add some clamps to the front depending on how they come,want that as stiff as you can make it,then if your looking for more you can unclamp just 1 leaf in the rear does not have to be all,we had all unclamped on our tired ss springs but ran one right behind the axle to help keep them together,with this fresh stuff in there i suspect you will be fine without having to get crazy with it
I run the SS springs with the Competition Engineering slide-a-links. It does pretty good with track prep. Haven’t played with the double adjustable rear shocks yet. 1.451 sixty foots. Kim
I seen a duster at a car show that a guy copied how the mustang has that little shock mounted from the body to the diff/bracket so the housing can’t move fire wards and backwards. Says it helped a lot for traction on the street. Kim
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I would like to see a picture of that mod.
Just look at any 88-90 something mustang. I didn’t take any pics. Or should be able to google it. Kim
Well i feel much better about my 8-3/4 housing, NOT being bent!
Slide my axles out last night. They came right out and also the paint mark that i put on them was straight as a arrow!!!
The only damage? Was the splines were shiny were they were being used. Wouldn't be afraid to re use them. But have racing axles that i bought over a year ago that will replace them.
Replacing my pinion seal but, i think part of the problem was my clogged vent tube.
Slide my axles out last night. They came right out and also the paint mark that i put on them was straight as a arrow!!!
The only damage? Was the splines were shiny were they were being used. Wouldn't be afraid to re use them. But have racing axles that i bought over a year ago that will replace them.
Replacing my pinion seal but, i think part of the problem was my clogged vent tube.
sst3193
Well-Known Member
Take a good light under the car with you and have a look at the housing. Pay particular attention to the lines formed in the housing axle tubes. If I am not mistaken the axle housing is rolled from flat sheet and it will have die form lines, scratched into it. The tubes also are welded into a round shape so, you may be able to find the weld line. If they are straight, the housing is golden. Helped a racer once that had changed the spring perches 2 weeks consecutive because, I kept loosing pinion angle. We got under the car and found the housing a mess.
thanks for the info
I will take a good look at it after i degrees it.
I got a scare tonight as i was removing the u- bolts. The perches were rocking back and forth on the springs, like the tube was twisted.
Got it on my flat table and set the spring perches on a couple of 4x4 pieces of wood. Its flat, wooh!!!!
I will take a good look at it after i degrees it.
I got a scare tonight as i was removing the u- bolts. The perches were rocking back and forth on the springs, like the tube was twisted.
Got it on my flat table and set the spring perches on a couple of 4x4 pieces of wood. Its flat, wooh!!!!
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This is what all the hardened washer look like when i remove my SS Spring.
The Front bracket where it bolts to the frame and front part of leaf spring.
These are the hardened washer that came with my frame connector kit. They were vary tight all 8 of them.
Needless to say, these will all be replaced with the new springs.
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