How do you get a Suspension to hook, when the track surface is marginal at best

-
"Summit racing' for the SS Springs and the back brace.
"Doctor Diff" for clutch packs, spring relocation kit and axle perches.

Did you notice that one spring pack has wear pad on it and the other does not??????

Descriptions says right side has 8 leafs with the last two facing forward only...and it does.
left side has 6 leafs...and it does.
They have the right part numbers
Not going to stress too much over it, but it is odd....
 
I did notice that they were different but I figure they know what they are doing. Yeah, don't stress over it. Thanks for the references. Much appreciated. Time to order the same things for me. Then get it all ready and order axles from the DR or Moser.
 
What car do you have? Probably don't need the 3800 pound ones............But it might be a good idea to weigh your car.
What is your plan for the car. aka street, street strip
 
73 scamp. I need the ...002 and ...003 springs. Street/strip 510 stroker, efi, trick flow heads, Possible NOS
 
Now i'm just taking out my "ARSS" here but wouldn't you want a higher rated spring for a big block aka "more then the car ways"..........because your trying to pack all that extra weight from up front.

Every one talks about the "002 and 003" SS Spring for a A Body, but i never seen any part numbers that represent that.??
 
I Am planning on degreasing my rear housing tomorrow but decide to do a test tonight.
chucked up the housing so that i could rotate it off the ground. using a small 6" level. I set it on the right spring perch and then rotated the housing until the bubble was perfectly centered. Put it on the left spring perch..........Perfect!!!!!!!

My off set front hanger doesn't fit without re bending my fuel feed, and return line and the brake line on the other side.:(
Got the fuel line massaged tonight. Will have to cut the brake bracket out of the way tomorrow to get the driver side to fit and then fined a new way to support the brake line..........
 
sst3193 said:
You might want to have close look at that 8 3/4, to see if it's twisted and lost pinion angle. Seen that happen often, especially with one used for a long time.
Click to expand...

sst3193 said:
Take a good light under the car with you and have a look at the housing. Pay particular attention to the lines formed in the housing axle tubes. If I am not mistaken the axle housing is rolled from flat sheet and it will have die form lines, scratched into it. The tubes also are welded into a round shape so, you may be able to find the weld line. If they are straight, the housing is golden. Helped a racer once that had changed the spring perches 2 weeks consecutive because, I kept loosing pinion angle. We got under the car and found the housing a mess.
Click to expand...

Well i think i'm golden!

IMG_1042.JPG
IMG_1043 (1).JPG


:thumbsup:
 
To me it was a lot of worry, out of no where, for nothing.
 
Cudafever said:
Now i'm just taking out my "ARSS" here but wouldn't you want a higher rated spring for a big block aka "more then the car ways"..........because your trying to pack all that extra weight from up front.

Every one talks about the "002 and 003" SS Spring for a A Body, but i never seen any part numbers that represent that.??
Click to expand...

Back in the day, the mopar race manuals always said, for dragracing , if u can`t hit the weight of your car with the exact spring weight recommendation, ''TO GO TO THE NEXT ONE LITER", engine had nothing to do with it !
 
famous bob said:
Back in the day, the mopar race manuals always said, for dragracing , if u can`t hit the weight of your car with the exact spring weight recommendation, ''TO GO TO THE NEXT ONE LITER", engine had nothing to do with it !
Click to expand...
002-003 springs are definitly the right springs for a 3100 pound A body ---------We used to run them on a 3600 pound hemi belvedere, with the back of the leaves de clamped, ''used Imperial shocks'', there were a few times when the track was prepped good and our slicks were new, it carried the front wheels to the second gear change. But not often, the track usually sucked !~!
 
Thanks for the education.
So was the 002-003 all you had or do you believe the light spring does a better job.
I stepped up to a heavier spring(to match my cars weigh) this time.......Do you think that was a mistake?
 
rumblefish360 said:
To me it was a lot of worry, out of no where, for nothing.
Click to expand...
When my back brace in install, My Worries will go a way.

440outlawdart said:
time for caltracs
Click to expand...
Caltracs are not in the budget.
SS Spring, relocation kit, back brace, new clutch packs for sure grip, new pinion Yoke, seal and larger u-joint and .........maybe ....by spring, new wheels and slicks.
When you start a project, it just snowballed from your original plans.
 
cut old perches off and ground down, ground all the rust and paint off where the back brace and perches will go.
Now to center it back in the car and get proper driveshaft angle.........Then i will be waiting on my welder friend to come and tac the perches, remove and weld it all up.
IMG_1044.JPG
IMG_1045.JPG
 
Cudafever said:
Thanks for the education.
So was the 002-003 all you had or do you believe the light spring does a better job.
I stepped up to a heavier spring(to match my cars weigh) this time.......Do you think that was a mistake?
Click to expand...
Not going to say it was a mistake , but Chrysler did say it was better "for dragracing" to go the to
the next ones liter. More spring action------------
 
Cudafever said:
Thanks again to you all!
I can answer some of you question but some i will have to get back to you tomorrow night!
Rear shackle is rear word 1 inch, as in the left spring part of the shackle is 1 inch back.
Rear shock are MP " race shock (purchased also in the late 1990's)
Front shock are standard worn out shocks
Rear segment of the SS Spring are not unclamped
When i installed the pinion snubber it was at the highest spot without having to raise the body to get the pin in it. (also installed back in the 90's)
This is a full Dressed car that hasn't see the street in over 10 years. It's a race cars...just a heavy one. Aka track us only car.
Front travel......just went and check. I have exactly 5" of travel. I have threatened to cut the bumper off to get me a little bit more travel.
Rims are a 8" x 15 finned alu wheels. fronts tires are 165 80R 15 and backs are 26 10 15 M/T ET Slick with tubes
When the track has some teeth in it, my best 60' was a 1.707 "Disclaimer" I race at 1/8 mile track and the elevation is 6600 feet.
best ET to date, is 7.86@87 mph 1/8 mile.
I will have to jack it up to check my pinion angle......and find my angle gauge
Click to expand...

6600’ what do they call it, Hypoxia?
 
Not a lot of progress with this blast cold weather but did buy my new slick and mocked them up.............i think my wheel well lip is going to have to be trimmed, even with my .080' inboard spring relocation. It looking real close on the inside of my factory wheel tubs as well.

Got the slicks! now need to figure out what back spacing i need and if it can be had with the wheels i want to buy.

Any ways took a pic, starting from the left, my first slick. it was a cheater slick recap, then my M/T 26x10x15 to my now 28x10.5x15

When you read the spec's it said that the side wall clearance is 11.5 for the 26 slick and 11.7" for the 28 slick.
You can see in the picture there a lot bigger sidewall. I own them, got to make them fit now.

They sure look nice in the wheel well opening!
IMG_1194 (2).jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top