j par
Well-hung Member
I didn't say anything about legal, but I would say if your being cool you should pass 98% of cops with no problems...
how do you make 550+hp hook on the street ??
- Thread starter j par
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I did and if ya run around here with a wrinklewall and you trip the loud meter you are busted.
As with almost every car I've ever worked on, there is more time tied up in hooking and 60's in places OTHER than the rear suspension!
There used to be a huge difference in the cars that could hook and those that didn't on the street. My car would hook in a sandbox and lots of guys I ran had trouble hooking on a decent track. Come play on the street and my stuff would go 1.40 on even the worst roads and run mid 9's. Try catching a car like that even if you run a full second faster popping off a 1.80 or worse 60' like a lot of guy ran on blacktop.
Lots of examples of a chassis that doesn't work on the net.
There used to be a huge difference in the cars that could hook and those that didn't on the street. My car would hook in a sandbox and lots of guys I ran had trouble hooking on a decent track. Come play on the street and my stuff would go 1.40 on even the worst roads and run mid 9's. Try catching a car like that even if you run a full second faster popping off a 1.80 or worse 60' like a lot of guy ran on blacktop.
Lots of examples of a chassis that doesn't work on the net.
j par
Well-hung Member
you can start a whole new (probably controversial) thread on the differences between your modern muscle car and an older one with the c.i.d., but not here...
If you're willing to run wrinkle walls then handling means absolutely nothing to you. At that point just throw ladder bars and a spool on it.
Seriously though, take a car that handled like **** new, let the suspension age 50yrs, and then add 250hp. The outcome shouldn't be surprising. Once the suspension is fixed there's no need for wrinkle walls or the like. Nitto 555r's are the best I've used for real street driving. You can actually drive it like a normal car and even enjoy some corners. Tire life is decent too (roughly 10k).
Seriously though, take a car that handled like **** new, let the suspension age 50yrs, and then add 250hp. The outcome shouldn't be surprising. Once the suspension is fixed there's no need for wrinkle walls or the like. Nitto 555r's are the best I've used for real street driving. You can actually drive it like a normal car and even enjoy some corners. Tire life is decent too (roughly 10k).
j par
Well-hung Member
that sucks! Here we can still get away with pretty loud pipes, and very under inflated cheaters.
j par
Well-hung Member
This is kind of making my point. Did you have 550+ hp ?
Its not just tractiin control that keeps modern cars from spinning. They use drive by wire throttles and modulate the initial throttle opening so as not to give the driver whiplash. And other than a select few they dont produce as much immediate torque as the engines we are building. They are also heavier and they use very wide soft tires.
And I have been in a Hellcat roasting the tires while merging onto the interstate at 65. Freaking awesome !
And I have been in a Hellcat roasting the tires while merging onto the interstate at 65. Freaking awesome !
Oh I've owned my fair share of "old school" muscle cars. I've had cars with leafs, 3 links, 4 links, big blocks, small blocks, you name it. Old or new makes no difference. 500 is 500, the road doesn't know the difference.
probably, when crackedback speaks, I listen and learn.
Who cares? Make it hook on the track, where it counts.
j par
Well-hung Member
Agreed, but at what point is it just over over overkill for the street ?
ha,ha,ha overkill a stock 440 dart with 4.30 gears
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Damn, Idaho ain't usually like that.
Only law in my state is if it's 25 years or older you just have to have a muffler. There is no decibel level.
What's the dB limit in Idaho?
j par
Well-hung Member
It must just be my badly miss matched combo? The power band reminds me of my 2-stroke stuff (Not complaining). My street tires are stock hemi magnum 18's (modern muscle). Don't dump the clutch at 55, just stab it to the floor in 3rd and at this point I would recommend a last prayer as the the world will be going round and round til it's over.
the db limit is when the windows in local businesses rattle.
whitepunkonnitro
Well-Known Member
See, that is absolutely not true. You may have a legit 1500 horsepower, and you may be hooking, no questioning you there...BUT, you ain't hooking 1500 horsepower.
Your traction control is dialing it back to what the surface will hold. Your theoretical 1500 horsepower is 400 to the wheels when all that science fiction kicks in.
Yes, you can dead hook and create a violent enough reaction to make a moon shot out of the hole, but 60 foot out, you are subject to the same laws of friction as anyone else.
If the street will hold 400 horse with your tire and weight, that is all your traction control is going to allow.
but I know people that don't care about hook'n on the track, it's on the street that counts. They feel that's where the real braggin' rights are at
j par
Well-hung Member
I found out afterwards my combo is a bit much for the street (but fun on the track that the motor was built for).
100-150hp move than what I already have on the street?
No thanks...
100-150hp move than what I already have on the street?
No thanks...
Jpar, while I have not had that much power on the street, what have have done in the past with my heavier E body 4spd and BF Goodrich tires was a low rpm dump or a slight higher rpm launch with a slower engagement of the clutch. Once it grabs, the pedal goes down as quick as the tires can handle it.
It takes a lot of practice and understanding of the road and the day's conditions to learn what the car will handle for that moment.
When in doubt, walk it out, stomp the go pedal as much as permissible by the car.
The E body chassis set ups was never extensive. Basic parts. S/S springs, soft air shocks, dead front shocks, snubber about 1/2 to 3/4 from the floor. 275/60/15 rear tires.
It takes a lot of practice and understanding of the road and the day's conditions to learn what the car will handle for that moment.
When in doubt, walk it out, stomp the go pedal as much as permissible by the car.
The E body chassis set ups was never extensive. Basic parts. S/S springs, soft air shocks, dead front shocks, snubber about 1/2 to 3/4 from the floor. 275/60/15 rear tires.
How much power do you think it takes to move a decent weight car in the mid 9's? North of 140 mph in the 1/4 if that helps at all, only a glass hood, steel everywhere else and a happy hole saw.
Your car doesn't hook because the set up is off. WAY OFF!
Lots of cars with 10.00 engines in a chassis good for 13.00.
Read up. Books like Doorslammers and other chassis related material for the type of car you run. Reading about a 4 link doesn't help you. If you know anyone that runs a Stock or S/S mopar that's willing to 'talk' (lol some of you will get that one!) is another good source. Go watch some videos of 4 speed stock eliminator cars from the 80's early 90's leaving the line and compare. It will be eye opening.
Your car doesn't hook because the set up is off. WAY OFF!
Lots of cars with 10.00 engines in a chassis good for 13.00.
Read up. Books like Doorslammers and other chassis related material for the type of car you run. Reading about a 4 link doesn't help you. If you know anyone that runs a Stock or S/S mopar that's willing to 'talk' (lol some of you will get that one!) is another good source. Go watch some videos of 4 speed stock eliminator cars from the 80's early 90's leaving the line and compare. It will be eye opening.
Walker434
Well-Known Member
The type of street you are trying to hook on makes a big difference. Concrete is much easier to hook on than asphalt. But as Crackedback has pointed out its all about the setup. In watching some of the OPs videos it does not appear he is hooking at the track. If you can't hook at the track you have no prayer on the street.
My little budget build will pull the front tires at the track, hook really well on concrete streets (although hard to find in TN) and currently blows the tires off on asphalt. I hope this helps in some way.
My little budget build will pull the front tires at the track, hook really well on concrete streets (although hard to find in TN) and currently blows the tires off on asphalt. I hope this helps in some way.
j par
Well-hung Member
Okay steering This Thread back on track again LOL I'm not asking about my car at all. I know it sucks on the tracks I know I'm not getting traction I know my rear end is junk I know my suspension is junk I know I know I know. I'm asking if you will again, how would you you you you you make 550 Plus horsepower hook on the street. Not me not my car.
j par
Well-hung Member
Once again I am not asking about my car at all! I do not have nowhere near 550 horsepower!
LOL........
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