How much power can the stock rods in a 383 B handle with a blower?

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Here is a picture of the victim

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Kind of an odd way to destroke. lol
Yea factory big block rods are pretty tough and can take a beating.
 
I can think of quite a few very strong running 383s back in the day when polishing beams and good bolts would make the stock rods handle the rpm 383s are known for.
 
I'd have no problem running stock rods in a 383 at 12PSI with everything prepped and tuned right. But since aftermarket rods are as affordable as they are, I probably would use those.
 
The tune is everything. Keep it out of detonation, run good fuel, be conservative with timing. The rods aren't the weak link.

Weird that the referenced engine split just idling, what happened?
 
The tune is everything. Keep it out of detonation, run good fuel, be conservative with timing. The rods aren't the weak link.

Weird that the referenced engine split just idling, what happened?

RUN GOOD FUEL

I put this in caps for a reason. You can get away with a much larger margin of error while tuning with 110-116 leaded. I have experimented quite a bit in the timing department on n20. My current combination likes timing and octane. I can also get away with more a little more timng running 1/8th mile vs 1/4. High gear is hard on things
 
this is an old post but ill chime in. i ran a 6-71 383 with 15lbs of boost no problem with stock rods. i bought the car that way and it had been run for years with stock rods. 10 second street car and never had a rod failure. previous owner ran it HARD with some insane rpm shifts. b engines take way more abuse than a rb. would i build it again with stock rods though? no.

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this is an old post but ill chime in. i ran a 6-71 383 with 15lbs of boost no problem with stock rods. i bought the car that way and it had been run for years with stock rods. 10 second street car and never had a rod failure. previous owner ran it HARD with some insane rpm shifts. b engines take way more abuse than a rb. would i build it again with stock rods though? no.

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That was a cool car!!
 
If I was going to build a high HP blower motor, I wouldn't use any stock parts. Everything would be name brand High Performance.
 
What if you were building a low HP blower motor?
Then I would do some research. Maybe some of the stock 383 parts would be up to 500 or so HP. I am NOT a professional engine builder, and I could be wrong, but I would not try to build a 700 HP 383 with any stock parts. I just think it makes sense. Just like I might have been able to use a stock 340 clutch behind my modified 340, but I went with a HP clutch.
 
If a person was on a strict budget I would spend $ on H beams with ARP bolts before buying an aftermarket crank or cylinder heads. Unfortunately this puts us on the slippery slope because if you buy rods and pistons it makes sense to buy a longer stroke crank (or offset grind the OEM to 2.200 rod journal. A 500" short block with some dish pistons, ported large valve 906's and 8-10 lbs of boost should easily break the 600hp mark.
 

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