That's pretty cool. A big gas tampon. lol
If I was starting over I'd go 9" too.If you’re starting from scratch personally I’d look at the 9” just from a parts availability standpoint. If you‘re stuck on the “dump truck” rear the S60 is much easier for gear set up with its screw/cup side adjusters. I have 4.30 and 4.56 gears set up and it really doesn’t take too long to swap between the two once you get the pinion shim pack for each.
cage…. if I had to do it again I’d a gone molly. Mild steel was cheaper and at the time we just didn’t care much. Now I do . With materials costs these days I cringe to think what it’d cost!!
i‘m sure you’ve done your homework on the 9 deal. Chassis cert (every 3 years), competition license, pants/gloves/jacket and I believe by next year a HANS type device will also be required. Out west here it’s been a pita getting lined up with the tech guy to get recertification at times.
Exactly why I'm gonna settle for low/mid tens with my new ride.If you’re starting from scratch personally I’d look at the 9” just from a parts availability standpoint. If you‘re stuck on the “dump truck” rear the S60 is much easier for gear set up with its screw/cup side adjusters. I have 4.30 and 4.56 gears set up and it really doesn’t take too long to swap between the two once you get the pinion shim pack for each.
cage…. if I had to do it again I’d a gone molly. Mild steel was cheaper and at the time we just didn’t care much. Now I do . With materials costs these days I cringe to think what it’d cost!!
i‘m sure you’ve done your homework on the 9 deal. Chassis cert (every 3 years), competition license, pants/gloves/jacket and I believe by next year a HANS type device will also be required. Out west here it’s been a pita getting lined up with the tech guy to get recertification at times.
Just curious, how much glass parts you have to get that light ?I think with the little bit of added weight, low 10's is easily doable. I've already been there (10.28 best) with a 408 4" stroked small block. The 416 that is almost complete went 9.40's in a 2800 lb car and my car was 2500 lb with the cast iron headed 408.
.... and the thicker axle tubes make up for the lack of rear brace you find on hi-horsepower 9" and 8 3/4 applications.. Kind of a pick-your-poison. Thick tubes to keep the housing straight, or lightweight tubes for minimum weight penalty.I have seen axel tubes in Dana 60's anywhere from 5/16'' to a hair over 1/2'' depending what it came out of . So weight varies .
Curious, yep. Me too. Tube chassis car? That's only a couple (well, three) hundred pounds more than my back-halfed mini car with an aluminum headed small block.Just curious, how much glass parts you have to get that light ?
I wouldn't mind getting my car down to 2800
He pm'd me the details. Lots of fiberglass, lexan, aluminumCurious, yep. Me too. Tube chassis car? That's only a couple (well, three) hundred pounds more than my back-halfed mini car with an aluminum headed small block.
Thanks, Maga!He pm'd me the details. Lots of fiberglass, lexan, aluminum
Went from an 8.75 to a Dana years ago on consecutive weekends when I was racing all the time.
Close to 70 extra pounds.
That said, I saw zero difference on the time slips. I suspect the Dana must be more efficient for it’s extra weight to not hurt the time slip at all.
Regards the frame connectors and cage. Cage might make a tiny bit of difference, the frame connectors you might actually gain some ET from.
Lots to be said for making a unibody car a much stiffer “ one piece” deal.
All these changes I bet you would be unlikely to lose half a tenth, just good upgrades all around.
Just remember if it’s a drag race only duster you can get them very light. Mine used to be 2550 with my son in it, 8.50 cert cage, Dana 60, and old style build 2 x 3 box frame. Going to a strut frontend help bigtime. Mines up to 2850 now with me driving and I removed the fiberglass doors and put stock doors on with wind up windows. Fenders are steel and it has a heavy fiberglass hood and trunk. Also fiberglass front and rear bumpers.
Would love to go down the track in mine 510 pounds lighter just a couple of passes. Would be fun.
John, are you weighing them at the track? Digital scale, or beam type?
(I haven't seen a scale open at a track I race at, in a decade. Pomona, yeah, of course, but Joe Shmoe can't race there....)
I have a torch and a sawzal
You are clearly weight conscious.My 1972 duster weights 3240 with a small block and 8.75 rear end and a full tank of fuel (16 gallons) all steel and glass.soon to be a 512 with victor heads. Question what would be the difference in weight from a 8.75 rear to a Dana. What would I need cage wise to run low 10’s height 9’s and what would the weight be for the cage and frame connectors. One more question could I just run 5 gallons in my stock fuel tank so I could save 11galx6pds= 66 pounds from having less fuel weight in my car. I know I’ll probably need to put a fuel cell in at some point but can I do this or would the fuel slosh around to much and cause fuel starvation problems. Thanks Guys
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I'm pretty sure my car is going to be a 4000 pound dart, judging by the weights of other people's cars lol
I saw a rat motored 67 ElCamino once that was claimed to be 4600 lbs at the starting line. I didn't believe it .....till I saw the driver get out.Mine I took a picture of on the scale after making a pass and posted it on here. Not all that long ago( this past summer). And anybody who has seen it knows it has no glass and no stripped down interior. And knows the size of me ..lol
I am a hater of people who say there car is heavier to make it sound faster.