Hydraulic clutch revisited

[mguner]

Thanks to Robert's and everyone elses contributions on the other post this is what I've come up with. The emergency brake cable has been relocated to the hole where the clutch rod used to go through to make master cyl mounting easier. More pics are on the way including the mods to the pedal arm etc.... The master cyl fits 95 Nissan Pathfinder $16, Slave cyl and banjo bolt 95 Nissan Altima $28 and $6 respectively, Front brake hose from a 95 200 SX left I believe since it's only about $8, shortest section of Jap metric 3/16 double flair brake line you can find, axle bolt for lawn mower and a brake spring to keep the fork snug against the slave assy so hopefully the T/O bearing won't continually ride the clutch fingers and fail prematurely. I bled the system today and fired it up. The clutch did release but I have not picked up a brake spring yet with the hooks in the proper location. Still not sure if I'll have T/O to clutch clearance... It will be very close.

No new holes drilled or threaded in bell housing. Square hole fits over knob near bottom of starter. Second bolt can be used and hole is easily located by using fresh paint.

Back side of slave bracket.

The adapter block is made of mild steel and the rod is an 8mm 1.25 pitch. I will make a firewall stiffener that looks like an oversized gasket and has 5/16 bolts welded into it to make master cylinder installation easier. Pic in the works...

This is an alternative but the crossbolt size 8.02 mm may not handle the load adequately. Available at Midwest Controls... http://www.midwestcontrol.com/buy.php?item=227

The holes on the slave are opened up to 7/16 for use with common us wrench-bolt sizes and 3/8 flat washers fit snug and shim for final alignment.

Part#s for banjo bolt and steel line...

Slave part#

Brake line part#

Master Cyl part# and overview of misc...

Slave mounted with pushrod installed

metal was added on both sides of the pedal arm to give a flat surface for the pivot bolt shims and jamb nut. A hole was drilled and threaded for 3/8 NC

A look at the pedal lonkage without spacers.

Pushrod linkage installed on pedal with spacers and jamb nut.

The firewall stiffiner with bolts welden in place.

Another view. The thin part on the side of the hole had to be ground for clearance of the emergency brake bracket.

Mounting location on the firewall. The washers are just enough to compensate for the rib thickness.

Mounting detail

Frontal view

The slave from above

 

[OUTLAW]

Nice! I also developed my own hydraulic clutch system, but used International Harvester master/slave setup, but yours is a little cheaper and more compact than mine. May have to look into using your parts when its time to replace. Again .. go going

 

[mguner]

Don't jump ship on the IH stuff yet.... I may not have enuff travel to keep the clutch fork stock on this rig. We'll see.... I've been looking at Jeep stuff that has more volume and travel also. I love the size and price of the Nissan parts but I am really wanting more of a bolt on deal. Took more pics today and almost have it ready to test. I will may end up doing like Robert did and move the slave in closer to gain the travel needed on the fork. I had another thought if I do modify the fork. I would cut off the eye and weld on a section of 7/16 grade 8 SAE bolt with enough shank and threads that I can bolt on a heim end and move it in or out enough to change the throw for adjustment. After a discussion with fstfish66 we found that the components for a 1985 vette (though a little more expensive) have the volume and travel to do the job with a stock fork and plenty of travel.

Here is the Corvette slave shown upside down

The master cyl looks similar to Jeep and Wilwood units.

 

[fstfish66]

how are you attaching the slave to the fork ?? im very intrested in which ever works, im giving up on my tilton nascar unit. and im looking for a set up that will work with a fork and slve cylinder,,

 

[racingsnake440]

why are you giving up on the tilton?

 

[Duster]

Mguner

Looking at what you done and mine I cut my fork this mean that I get more travel for the same stroke of the slave. Just a though.

Robert

 

[mguner]

Here is today's pic. I was unable to add it to the original (my edit button was not available). One of many ways I have pondered on mounting the return spring.

For those of you wanting to convert to a hydraulic clutch and use stock fork configuration DO NOT use a 5/8 " bore master cylinder!
There are several slave cylinders available with long travel that will do the job if you have a master cylinder that will move enough juice. The 3/4" is the absolute minimum to use and the 13/16 or 7/8 are needed on the larger bore slave units. The 84' Jeep scrambler slave has long travel and an interesting mounting flange. It has a 7/8 bore though so plan on using a large master cyl.

I am hoping to find tha the KIA unit below has a smaller bore than 3/4. If so I may have some success with the 5/8 bore pathfinder master cyl.

 

[res1vw21]

interesting. I like it

 

[fstfish66]

why are you giving up on the tilton?

ok heres the deal,,to service my tranny or clutch,,, because of the way my K frame is midified,,i havew to lift the motor,,so a ton of things has to be removed,to do so,,,

as for the tilton,,even tho it has been in the car for 12 years, it only has 7000 miles on it,,it has never released the pressure plate completley,,there for no speed shifting under full throttle,,

the unit i use it a nascar type unit,, not the style that bolts to the nose of the tranny,,it seems to not have enough travel,,and on this unit can only be adjusted by using a longer piston,, it currently has the longest available,,

it sprung a leak some place ,,so i but a seal kit in it,,and 25 miles later leaking in the scattershield again,,

so i will now try the fork/slave cylinder set up,,and im sure it will release much better,,and if it ever gets a leak the slave isnt in the bell housing like the tilton currently is,,

ive been searching around for info on this set up,, i like the dodge truck 1965 to 1971 style slave cyl,,and also the wilwood slave cyl that is a pull type,,

i have custom made 2 inch tube headers,,and i might have just enough room for a fork to stick out of the belll

thats my next search,, to see what the difference is in fork length,, i have 3 different length forks,,

 

[mguner]

I am 99.9% certain now that the master cyl (13/16 bore) and slave cyl from a 1985 Jeep CJ or Scrambler (7/8 bore) will do the trick. The slave is at O'Reilly for $18.19 and the master at advance is about $57. Part #s CSA11956 and 39738 respectively.... Have to fab a bracket for the slave and get your flex line figured but no big deal. The push rod will be rather simple 3/8 bolt or all thread cut and rounded at proper length. Just figure out your pedal travel and geometry and it's a done deal. :read2:

 

[mguner]

Here are some new pics of the Jeep parts and a hose I had made. You can have a hose made that will reach all the way but I wanted to eliminate the possiblity of a spongy feel from a long section (32") of hose.

The Cherokee master has the side to side mounting flange and I believe the Scrambler master has the top to bottom style. The Cherokee unit has a different style slave flange than what I used here which is the Scrambler unit that by the way is only $20.00

The mounting detail of the slave unit. I did grind for header clearance on the bottom of the barrel end and for mounting bracket clearance on the inner bolt hole ear. The adjustable actuator rod is just a piece of 3/8 all thread with one end rounded and polished. If you have a really stout pressure plate a grade 8 bolt may be substituted. I also borrowed the adjustable plunger rod from the Nissan unit to expedite the installation.

The master cylinder mounted. Much easier to run the steel line with the new outlet location.

The jeep slave installed. The alignment is not perfect but it functions perfectly. There is a trade off on push rod alignment and bleeder clearance on the starter. If using a later model starter you can roll the slave position in a bit more and have a straight shot on the fork.

Notice the addition of gussets on the bottom of the bracket. While bleeding the system I noticed the bracket was flexing a bit so off it received a trip to the welder.
The jeep units do the trick and have the travel you need.

 

[hemitheus]

Crap. came back to revisit this and the photos are gone

 

[67Dart273]

Well YAH!!! LOL. Your post bumped this now I'M here LOL