Hydraulic roller Rhodes lifters in attempt to tame cam

-
Im going to spend some time with the car this weekend. Ill be sure and post videos, hopefully provide some closure for all that have helped
Thanks
 
I don't like those lifters and wouldn't use them. Something seems wrong with the numbers you are posting. The first thing I would do is to check true TDC and compare it your timing marks. And one question did you degree it in?
 
Yes, cam was degreee’d in.
Do you have an alternate lifter option? I built this while back and melling or sealed power were my only options
 
You might want to try just timing it with the vacuum gauge bringing it up to maximum vacuum at idle and then backing it off a little bit just to see what happens. Run it see how it runs and then check to see where your timings at. It might not be your best answer but I would try it. Also make sure you're using quality octane fuel!
 
Last edited:
If you put solid roller lifters on a hydraulic lobe profile you have to tight lash them because of the lack of clearance ramps. .004 or .006 lash isn’t going to change the aggressiveness of the cam in any appreciable way.
Sounds like you have done this before, I have not. Would you say that each .001 of lash equates to 1° less of duration as the youtube talking heads claim?
 
Yes, cam was degreee’d in.
Do you have an alternate lifter option? I built this while back and melling or sealed power were my only options
No I don't but if you think the cam is too large I'd just swap it out for something smaller and stay away from those bleed down lifters.
 
Sounds like you have done this before, I have not. Would you say that each .001 of lash equates to 1° less of duration as the youtube talking heads claim?
I have done it, and am doing it currently. My 8.1 has solid rollers on a hydraulic cam. I wouldn’t say there is a direct correlation between lash and duration, far too many variables.
 
Been stuck at work for a while. Thank you all for the comments. I’ll try to answer all here

Newly rewired car and starter with American auto wire kit

4 speed car, no concern of converter clunk

Lunati VHR18-VHR20 set to 112* LSA and installed on 108* ICL

239/243 @ .050" .367/.373" lobe lift

Engine doesn’t respond to more timing at idle. Rpm stays the same once I raise past 20 ish. Full mechanical in by 3000 at 32
degree. I use vacuum on ported for driving and transitions great from cruise to all out.

Rpm air gap
Edelbrock 800avs2 I previously had a quick fuel 780 4 corner carb that ate my lunch with stumbles and lean low rpm cruise. After several IFR changes I gave up. Car runs better than ever with this 800 avs2 out of the box. I’m really close and think this cam will be fine after some more tuning.

Idle screws 1 1/2 turns out is best setting. I just don’t like the sound of a 1000 plus idling engine… just picky I guess. The build of this motor and my goals have changed over the years as I have aged.

Pulling carb off tomorrow to confirm transfer slots and I will post the pics

PCV is a fram 191

View attachment 1716528612

What mufflers do you have on it?
 
Have you tried gently closing the choke flap (or slowly blocking the carburetor by hand to see what effect it has? If it does not kill the engine, or if it is slow to kill it, my bet is on a vacuum leak. That would explain why it won't idle down. Also worth checking on, is the secondary throttle adjustment. If they are too far open, it also will not idle down. Easily adjusted by removing the carburetor.
 
Last edited:

Just keep on mind that if you DO decide to ultimately use variable duration lifters, try to utilize the Z-Max. They are adjustable for the amount of duration they knock off at low RPM. With any of the rest, you have no idea how much duration you lose at low RPM, OR IF you ever gain it all back at high RPM. At least with the Z-Max, you have some control over that. I really think this is tuneable without those type lifters, though.
 

I have done it, and am doing it currently. My 8.1 has solid rollers on a hydraulic cam. I wouldn’t say there is a direct correlation between lash and duration, far too many variables.
Yes, it sounds like the op is trying to make a daily driver, and not sure your application? Did you originally start off with hydraulic rollers and switch to the solids rollers and if so, did it change the characteristics for better or worse?
 
Yes, it sounds like the op is trying to make a daily driver, and not sure your application? Did you originally start off with hydraulic rollers and switch to the solids rollers and if so, did it change the characteristics for better or worse?
Mine is a turbocharged big block in my daily driver dually with 630,000+ miles on it. It ate a hydraulic lifter and killed a cam when it broke a spring somewhere around 400,000 miles, so I had comp grind a hydraulic roller cam for it. And I put hydraulic roller lifters back on it at first. Right about that time engine masters was doing an episode about this very topic and Steve Brule convinced me to try it for longevity testing reasons. The engine acts exactly the same as it did with hydraulics and it’s still running today.
 
Mine is a turbocharged big block in my daily driver dually with 630,000+ miles on it. It ate a hydraulic lifter and killed a cam when it broke a spring somewhere around 400,000 miles, so I had comp grind a hydraulic roller cam for it. And I put hydraulic roller lifters back on it at first. Right about that time engine masters was doing an episode about this very topic and Steve Brule convinced me to try it for longevity testing reasons. The engine acts exactly the same as it did with hydraulics and it’s still running today.
I would say with 230k since the rebuild it has passed the longevity test!
 
-
Back
Top Bottom