Ideas for what everyone is using for traction devices?

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View attachment 1715213504

Lets see if it works for me.

I can't see the entire traction(or assassin) bar you have installed, but if the style like I have are not adjusted right, they won't work. Hence the bad rep. I haven't seen one set that bolt's on correctly to a Mopar without cutting and welding.

slapper bar 5.jpeg
 
i had to cut my frame rail to fit the adjusting bolt for my front hangers. and dented the frame rail behind that to clear my asassin bars as well.
 
Both my Mopars hook hard on the street. Only thing that's beat me out of the hole so far was a Nissan all-wheel-drive GTR with slicks. Properly adjusted bolt-on slapper bars, Nitto Drag Radials and (2800lbs - A-Body & 3200lbs- E-Body) SS spring rated hundreds of pounds below my car's actual weight (both weigh in around 3700lbs).Best rear suspension I've had in 4 decades of trying all the above and then some.
I think I could afford that;What have you got under the front for bars and shocks?
What kind of 60fts are you getting with how much power?
 
I can't see the entire traction(or assassin) bar you have installed, but if the style like I have are not adjusted right, they won't work. Hence the bad rep. I haven't seen one set that bolt's on correctly to a Mopar without cutting and welding.

View attachment 1715213829

I uploaded the wrong pic.

2800# SS springs , old Lakewood bars , adj. pinion snubber and rear sway bar.

408 W2, Solid roller , 4sp car with Mcleod RST clutch and a clutchtamer....

IMG_20171106_202253.jpg
 
I think I could afford that;What have you got under the front for bars and shocks?
What kind of 60fts are you getting with how much power?

For the price of a pair of left or right side Super Stock Springs, some generic Lakewood or Summit Slapper Bars(properly fitted to the rear spring/etc) and maybe even some new U-bolts and nuts; you can have a compliant, nice riding, hard hooking rear suspension. Just make sure your rear shocks are long enough. The cars do lift in the rear of the car as the bars push the rear end & tires into the pavement.

Nitto's are pretty temperature sensitive. If you get them too hot, they get greasy feeling, too cold and they remain hard. It even warns not to use them in weather below freezing due to potential catastrophic failure.

Front end has 1" T-bars in both cars. Koni Shocks on the '68 A-Body (364hp & 476 TQ at the wheels) and AFCO double adjustables on the '70 E-Body(new engine combo not yet dynoed).

They closed all the tracks around here, so I haven't been able to time the 60' etc. I can tell you that with the only change to the cars being the softer spring rate SS springs and slapper bars, both cars hook up harder, spin less and are significantly quicker out of the hole.
 
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