Identify these lifters

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most, if not all, solid lifters are hollow. it seems that some cups are pressed in while others are held in with a clip.
he was unable to compress them, they are solid.
 
Well, good news....
i put everything back together and set the valve lash on all rockers at .020, started her up and she runs great. The car used to shake when running before (probably because it was keeping some of the valves partly open) Now it runs nice and smooth and the throttle response is great. Haven't been able to take her out on the road yet since i took my steering wheel out, but i'm sure it'll run alot better now. I just hope the PO hasn't driven it too much with the valve too tight, time will tell i guess.

Thanks for all your input, i learned something today :cheers:

Kind regards, Wilco.
 
Thanks for the link. No way to know what cam is in this car. There is quite a bit of different numbers listed there for valve lash settings... any suggestions?

The cam doesn't seem to be very radical and the vacuum reading is between 19 and 20 (engine cold) at idle.
 
remove one valve cover and look at your pushrods with pleny of light while the engine idles. All of your pushrods should spinning.
Check both sides. If you see one thats not spinning, slowly rev it a little and see if it rotates. If it does, its ok.

Flat tappet cams aint flat! lol
 
.028" intake hot
.032" exhaust hot

you can set them at that and drive it and see how it sounds/feels and try tighter settings and compare.

you also need to make sure your oil has enough ZDDP for that cam to survive
 
mopar340dave said:
.028" intake hot
.032" exhaust hot

you can set them at that and drive it and see how it sounds/feels and try tighter settings and compare.

you also need to make sure your oil has enough ZDDP for that cam to survive
Click to expand...

Great, i'll give that a try when the car is back on the road (when spring rolls around and when i have my steering wheel installed) LOL

Any suggestions on who make a good engine oil i could use?
 
You can use Redline breakin additive in small amounts during an oil change. You can run conventional or synthetic of the correct weight (10w40 or 20w50 depends on your temps) but you need to know how much is in the oil before you go adding more.
We have a couple threads on here about it. let me look.
 
Here's the last thread where we were gathering info:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=88914&highlight=zddp

I was just running conventional 15w 40 diesel w/stp. i will be changing to the redline additive. the website I posted on that other thread has a chart to help ya figure out how much to add. the numbers are a little wacky because we are dealing with parts per million.<<<<<READ=CONFUSING the chart helps a lot! LOL
 
mopar340dave said:
Here's the last thread where we were gathering info:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=88914&highlight=zddp

I was just running conventional 15w 40 diesel w/stp. i will be changing to the redline additive. the website I posted on that other thread has a chart to help ya figure out how much to add. the numbers are a little wacky because we are dealing with parts per million.<<<<<READ=CONFUSING the chart helps a lot! LOL
Click to expand...

Great, i'll have to do an oil change anyway so great timing.. LOL
I'll do some reading up on that.
Thanks.
 
im going through the same thing,looking for answers,i mhave a 1964 273 with hydrolic lifters,some people say they cannot be ajusted,others say diff. im confused and in need of a smart old guy to help
 
how about starting a new topic instead of dragging up one that is 4 yrs old...LOL

if they are hydraulic the preload can be adjusted if you have adjustable rockers arms...

if you have non adjustable rockers arms...then they can not be adjusted.
 
it looks like the 273 came with solid lifters until 1968 so I assume you have an aftermarket cam and lifters in there? I think the 273 used to come standard with adjustable rocker arms, have you taken the valve covers off yet to see what the rockers look like (adjustable/ non adjustable)? if you are sure you have hydraulic lifters you need to set a pre-load, if you have solid lifters you need to set a valve lash (to the cam specs).

If you set a pre-load thinking you have hydraulic lifters (like I did) but actually have solid lifters your engine will turn over really quickly since it builds no compression due to the valves hanging open, that is if you are lucky (like I was) and don't bend/break any valves in the process due to the piston kissing the valves LOL.
 
rebel said:
they could be hollow solids,take the clip off one and check.
Click to expand...


x2. Pull one out and pull the clip. If there is a spring behind the plunger it's hydraulic. If there's nothing but a step the pushrod seat sits against - it's a solid lifter.
 
vje55 said:
Solids have that 'C' clip, hydraulic lifters a 'wire' clip.:thumbup:
Click to expand...

Not necessarily. Most good aftermarket Hydros have C-clips too. OEM hydros have wire. I was looking for some C-clips for some MP lifters (I said GOOD lifters come with c-clips!) and Crower sells replacement C-clips for their Hydros as well as their solids but in different sizes. Johnson solids for Mopar are the dumbell design for weight savings and have no clip.
 
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