Ignition problem

[Spencer James]

I got a strange problem for ya’ll or at least it is for me. I bought a ‘72 Dodge Dart swinger with a ‘82 360, when I bought the car I had no issues with starting the car. But now when I get the engine to turn over, the electric clutch works, and spark plugs fire. However as soon as I let off the ignition it sounds like I’m loosing any sort of combustion. The Engines flywheel will still be spinning but no ignition to keep it going. I changed the ignition switch in hopes that would do it, but I still have the issue. I’m really hoping some one knows what’s going on here because I’m scratching my head. Thanks

 

[Lefty71]

Have you checked for 12 volts at the ignition box from the ignition switch?? You would have it while cranking, but could have a broken wire after the ignition switch, or a failed ballast resistor.

If the blue wire shown here lost continuity between the ignition switch and the ballast resistor, then it would act as you've described. Possibly the bulkhead connector should be checked??

 

[RustyRatRod]

Here's a VERY simple diagnostic technique to see if the ballast resistor is bad. Switch the key to the START position but HOLD IT there and see if the engine starts. It won't hurt it for a second or three. The starter will grind with the engine running, but it will be ok for the very few seconds you will need to see if the engine starts. If it starts when held in the start position, the ballast resistor is bad.

 

[Spencer James]

Here's a VERY simple diagnostic technique to see if the ballast resistor is bad. Switch the key to the START position but HOLD IT there and see if the engine starts. It won't hurt it for a second or three. The starter will grind with the engine running, but it will be ok for the very few seconds you will need to see if the engine starts. If it starts and held in the start position, the ballast resistor is bad.

Ok that makes a lot of sense, I will look at that tomorrow thanks!

 

[Spencer James]

Have you checked for 12 volts at the ignition box from the ignition switch?? You would have it while cranking, but could have a broken wire after the ignition switch, or a failed ballast resistor. View attachment 1715429051
If the blue wire shown here lost continuity between the ignition switch and the ballast resistor, then it would act as you've described. Possibly the bulkhead connector should be checked??

Just did some looking and it seems like there’s been some screwing around with wiring here. The schematic you sent is not what in the car now at all.

 

[Spencer James]

Using the schematic, number 1 pin is connected to ignition coil and electric choke. Number 2 pin is cut off. Number 3 is cut. Number 4 and 5 go together to this connector, but it’s connected to nothing. Any ideas?

 

[TrailBeast]

View attachment 1715429365 Using the schematic, number 1 pin is connected to ignition coil and electric choke. Number 2 pin is cut off. Number 3 is cut. Number 4 and 5 go together to this connector, but it’s connected to nothing. Any ideas?

Oh boy, that looks like a candidate for a wiring exorcism.

 

[67Dart273]

SIMPLE The Mopar ignition you are picturing is disconnected. The clue is the distributor cap. Someone replaced the dist. with an aftermarket one which has the electronics in the distributor. No idea "what they did." The mess at the coil is also a tip off. You need to try and determine WHAT you have for a distributor, then maybe we can help you. The original coil ballast terminals are a starting point. One side gets power from the ignition switch in "run." The other side gets power from the ignition switch in "start." it is likely that the second side of the ballast is supposed to run to coil + and to your distributor electronics.

The two-wire connector you pictured originally went to a Mopar breakerless distributor, which triggered the ECU box you showed

 

[67Dart273]

Start by searching "Skip White read to run distributor"

 

[Spencer James]

Start by searching "Skip White read to run distributor"

Thanks for the advice!