Is this a good cam for my 416 stroker

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SGBARRACUDA said:
CR is 10.5, I was looking at Autolite 5224.
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I don't know autolite #'s but for 10.5 to 1 in an NGK I'd use a BKR7E. I think the stock # is 4644 but don't quote me on that. I've been using NGK's for close to 20 yrs. because I get good service out of them. If you like Autolite run them.
 
fishy68 said:
I don't know autolite #'s but for 10.5 to 1 in an NGK I'd use a BKR7E. I think the stock # is 4644 but don't quote me on that. I've been using NGK's for close to 20 yrs. because I get good service out of them. If you like Autolite run them.
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I've used Autolite for ever but I do like the NGK's too.
 
I've been working on getting the brake system plumed lately. Happen to know where I can buy a master cylinder fitting so I can make up the line from the MC to line loc?
 
The duration at 50 is a good range for your converter especially considering it being installed at a 107. Now if you go with a higher stall converter I feel you will be disappointed with top end power. If you go with a 4500 converter your duration at 50 should be 265+. And you will hate cruising the car. It'll feel like you have to mash the pedal when taking off from idle at a stop light.

The car seems to me with gear, converter and cam to work well as it is on the street. If you want more top end power retard the cam 2-4 degrees, if you want to fry the tires advance it 2-4 degrees but it'll have its tongue out quicker on the big end.
 
I went there first this morning and then went to a hydraulic hose shop and picked up every fitting I needed except the MC Nut. Oh well I can run a adapter I have if i can't find one. Thanks
 
1969Fish said:
The duration at 50 is a good range for your converter especially considering it being installed at a 107. Now if you go with a higher stall converter I feel you will be disappointed with top end power. If you go with a 4500 converter your duration at 50 should be 265+. And you will hate cruising the car. It'll feel like you have to mash the pedal when taking off from idle at a stop light.

The car seems to me with gear, converter and cam to work well as it is on the street. If you want more top end power retard the cam 2-4 degrees, if you want to fry the tires advance it 2-4 degrees but it'll have its tongue out quicker on the big end.
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Thanks, yeah I can't wait to try this combo out.
 
Well I bit the bullet today and called Sean at Frank Lupo Dynamic converters and order a new converter. They are building me a 9 1/2" with billet cover. Flash stall of 4200 but is suppose to be street friendly. Should be here in a couple of weeks.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Well I bit the bullet today and called Sean at Frank Lupo Dynamic converters and order a new converter. They are building me a 9 1/2" with billet cover. Flash stall of 4200 but is suppose to be street friendly. Should be here in a couple of weeks.
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Good choice and smart money spent.
 
Well the day finally came and I cranked it up today. Really sounds great with the open headers it was deafening. My new Autometer gauge cluster wasn't working so I shut it down till I can get a mechanical oil and water temp gauge on it till I figure this cluster out. I primed it with a mechanical gauge hooked up so I know it had 70 PSI. Plus I want to get the 3"exhaust on it so I can hear if I have any issues with noise in the engine.
Now I just have to buy the TTI X pipes and mufflers. The money pit continues!

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mopowers said:
Damn, that's clean! Is your regulator plumbed into the supply or return line?
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If you look at the trunk picture, I have it plumbed in the return line just before returning to the tank. I put a gauge also there so I can check the pressure at the end of the system.
 
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