Is this a good cam for my 416 stroker

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justinp61 said:
I always blend mine deep enough that there is no bump in the transition. Pay extra attention to the roof and outside of the ports. Also it's better to have the intake port opening a little smaller than the head port opening.

I glue the intake gasket to the heads with two small dabs of Gasgacinch making sure it's aligned with the ports. After the intake is bolted on scribe a reference line along the top and end of gasket on both sides. Then remove the intake and gaskets (keep the gaskets on their respective sides), bolt them to the intake using the scribe marks on the gaksets to line it up, then scribe the lines to port to. I go around the port openings with a black magic marker before I scribe the line, it makes it easier to see the scribe marks. When you do the port work only grind to the scribe mark, don't cut it out.
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Thanks,that is basically close to the way I've done them in the past. Just want to make sure on my thinking.
 
Well the Smith brother pushrods came in so I installed them and adjusted the valves. I had to notch the aluminum valve covers to clear the Air Gap. Upon starting to gasket match the intake, I discovered the intake wouldn't set low enough with the Fel Pro intake gaskets in place to start both sides of the intake bolts. So now I have to have the intake sides cut. Oh well these things must be expected. The heads were not cut but the block was decked which I guess explains the intake not fitting. Couple of pictures of my progress.
 

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Nice progress. Look like you're just about there....

You might want to prime the oiling system with the intake still off. I'm sure you've read about the "roller lifter puking" situation a lot of us have had converting these old blocks to rollers.

Just something to check, while you can.
 
Ironmike said:
Nice progress. Look like you're just about there....

You might want to prime the oiling system with the intake still off. I'm sure you've read about the "roller lifter puking" situation a lot of us have had converting these old blocks to rollers.

Just something to check, while you can.
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These Comp Roller lifters are a different design than most I've seen with the oil puking because the lifter rises to high or the poor machining done by Mopar. The lifter body on these are solid from one end to the other? Are you familiar with the 828-16 Comp Roller?
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Thanks,that is basically close to the way I've done them in the past. Just want to make sure on my thinking.
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I hope you didn't take my post wrong. I wasn't trying to make sound like you didn't know what you were doing.
 
Hey Roy how thick are those Fel-Pro gaskets? If I'm not mistaken they make them in a couple different thicknesses. Pretty sure they have them in .040 and .065'ish. If yours are the thicker ones you might save having the intake cut by finding the thinner ones. Unless the block was quite a bit I've never had an issue with the intake setting too high too bolt up.

BTW: looks great!
 
fishy68 said:
Hey Roy how thick are those Fel-Pro gaskets? If I'm not mistaken they make them in a couple different thicknesses. Pretty sure they have them in .040 and .065'ish. If yours are the thicker ones you might save having the intake cut by finding the thinner ones. Unless the block was quite a bit I've never had an issue with the intake setting too high too bolt up.

BTW: looks great!
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These are 1213 Fel-Pro's that measure .065. But the intake wasn't even close to bolting up with the gaskets in place. Actually it fit perfect with no gaskets.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
These are 1213 Fel-Pro's that measure .065. But the intake wasn't even close to bolting up with the gaskets in place. Actually it fit perfect with no gaskets.
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Cometic can make intake gaskets in several thicknesses. My Indy gaskets were to thick, so I called FBO after I figured out what I needed and had him order them. I didn't want to cut my intake.
 
IMO. Cut the heads to fit before the intake. Unless this IS the final configuration for sure.
 
Well it's not a question of a thinner gasket would work. It fits perfect with no gasket. Also the heads are bolted on already and I'm pretty sure this is the final set up. Plus my machinist called today, intake is ready. So already cut. Thanks for the feedback.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
These are the lifters I used. They have solid bodies.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-828-16/
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Yeah. They sure are a much nicer design than the 8043-16. I actually owned a set of those......for a minute.

I heard the 828's require a little block grinding. As ya found out, they're a little taller and won't go in with head on:)

I know if I wasn't running MRL, I'd be running those. Still might next time, which I hope don't come to quickly....
 
Ironmike said:
Yeah. They sure are a much nicer design than the 8043-16. I actually owned a set of those......for a minute.

I heard the 828's require a little block grinding. As ya found out, they're a little taller and won't go in with head on:)

I know if I wasn't running MRL, I'd be running those. Still might next time, which I hope don't come to quickly....
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I found out about them not fitting with the heads on ,the hard way, had to pull them back off. With all the issue with other roller lifters exposing the cut out sections and loosing oil pressure, I like the idea of not having to worry about that with a solid body style. And yes took some block grinding to get them to work.
 
Do the 828s have pressurized oiling to the bearings like the 8043s?
 
Took a couple of pictures with the 416 together. But I ordered a set of NGK plugs for it and guess what , I assumed that the Indybrocks would use the standard full size spark plug? Nope, I need to order a set of 5/8 size plugs!
 

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They do not take the small hex head replacement plug RC12LC4?

And did the 828 roller lifters need grinding to fit & work?
Just looking to be clear.
 
rumblefish360 said:
They do not take the small hex head replacement plug RC12LC4?

And did the 828 roller lifters need grinding to fit & work?
Just looking to be clear.
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The large 13/16 plugs won't work. There is not enough room for the plug socket. Yes you have to grind clearance for the cross bars to clear the block. You can see it in some of the first pictures.
 
I have the standard Edelbrock heads and they use the above plug.
Thanks on the roller lifter info.
 
I've run FR5 Ngk's

Not sure what heat range you need

Should be the same plugs as edelbrocks use.
 
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