Is this cam to much for a stock engine?

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myasylum

myasylum

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I'm looking at the Voodoo #60403. I'll have a 71' 360 w/ headers, intake, and 600cfm carb other then that mostly stock.
I'm going try to get the 2.02 heads done as well.

The 60403 seems to be "the middle class" for Voodoo cams, but for a virtually stock engine might that be too much. I basically want a very cool lopy sound, but with out hurting performance you know? Well... I guess that's what we all want isn't it? :)

Thanks!
 
I think if you do get some 2.02s etc mill them a little to bump the compression for that cam.

Also get a decent ignition and or mod the dist curve to for faster all in and limit the total to 32-36 and a lot of base timing like 12-15 or so.

sounds like it should be Ok with headers to get the air in and out..
 
If the grind is like a street Hemi cam, around 284/484, then you should be fine, just make sure your valve springs can handle it. I agree with djwhog, a good ignition and a little more compression wouldn`t hurt a bit and even a slightly larger carburetor 650-700 cfm.
 
That cam has a .494/.513 lift...maybe a little too much for a "stock" motor,if you have some head work done,get a bigger carb and stall converter,the stock converter is not enough to fully take advantage of that cam..what intake are you running??..i ran that cam in my 416 stroker when i first put it in and got some really good numbers from it,but thats a totally different animal...
 
Well, this is what Lunati says...

"This High Performance street cam likes 2400 RPM stall, 700 cfm carb, dual plane intake and headers. Makes un-equaled power to 6200 RPM with proper valve springs. Very strong cam with great street manners.
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 268/276
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 226/234
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .494/.513
LSA/ICL: 110/106
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
RPM Range: 1800-6200"


It sounds to me like you'll need valvesprings, bigger carb and a new stall convertor for this one to work decent in your combination. If you're already planning on doing some work to the heads I might just wait until then, after all you'll have it torn down about that far anyway. I wouldn't just toss that cam in that engine though, the valvesprings will not be happy for sure, and I doubt you'll see the advantages of that cam without some of the other mentioned upgrades.
 
Get something in the 210-220 at .050" range with .455" - .480" lift. If the manufacturer says to change springs, change springs.
This will make that 360 a real street monster with stock stuff.
It will be fun to drive and dust most others on the road while maintaining good street manners.

With that said, this cam is a little hotter than what I just suggested and is probably the limit on what you should run on your stock stuff:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Luna...c0.m245&_trkparms=72:1171|65:12|39:1|240:1318
The Bracket Master II camshaft is the logical choice for some high performance street machines, off-road jeeps and mild performance Bracket racing applications. They provide excellent power over a broad power band and give that lopey idle so many people like.Hydraulic, fair idle. Good cam for high performance street applications with good low end and mid range torque and horsepower. Needs headers, 9:1 compression ratio and 3.50 gearing.

Brand: Lunati
Part number: 00043
Hydraulic Flat Tappet
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 292/292
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 230/230
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .480/.480
LSA/ICL: 109/105
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
RPM Range: 2000-5500
Includes: Cam Only
These cams are from a cam & lifter kit where the lifters were removed. Cam is stamped with part number on end. White boxed.

Made in USA.

The recommended springs are only 100 pounds on the seat.
You would still have to buy a quality set of lifters.
 
A stock 360 is going to have compression down in the low 8's maybe as low as the high 7's. That cam is going to make the engine very sluggish in the low/mid rpm range where you will be driving on the street.

As previously mentioned something with duration below 220 @ 0.050 will be a much better choice. You just don't need heads with a 2.02 intake on your engine. Magnum heads or new higher compression pistons would be a better investment.
 
I think you are thinking too grand. Do you have power brakes? What rear axle ratio? what torque convertor?
 
The biggest I might consider is the #60402 cam. Really, you'll get much better all-around performance if you go with a smaller cam but higher compression and ported heads (with good intake/headers to match). No matter what you do at the very least get those heads milled as much as possible without severely messing up your intake mounting geometry. I also agree with dgc333, 2.02" valves aren't as necessary as a compression boost or better low-lift flow.
 
That cam is to large for a low compression engine. I used a 218@50 in my low compression 318 and advanced the cam 2 degrees an it as a lot of bottom end power and pulls hard. It has a nice lope at idle.
Make sure you degree the cam in. If it is a few degrees retarded it will kill bottom end power.
 
I run a Isky E-75 in a otherwise stone stock 361 Bog Block with Headers, and a 3-Inch exhaust.. I run a four speed and 2.76:1 gears, and it my family/daily driver:
Cam Specs:
Advertised Duration: 320-Degrees
Duration @.050": 274-Degrees
Lift @ Valve: .570"
Lobe Separation: 108-Degree

The car is alittle sluggish on the bottom end, but after the roughness goes away after 2800-rpm's the car hauls.. The mid-top end charge is unsurpassed.
I had a Isky 280 Mega Cam in the car prior and it was way to small... For me anyways.
 
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