rapom65
Well-Known Member
Auto to 4 speed hump conversion is done. Any interest in a how to thread?
It's a stick car now!
- Thread starter rapom65
- Start date
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ryansiki
Well-Known Member
I'm gonna have to do this to my Duster, so I'd be interested. Man I wish my floor pans were as nice as yours:crybaby:
plugger340
Well-Known Member
... x2 ...
caferacerx
BAND MEMBER
x3
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
nice.. i have pedals in mine but no hump yet.
73SwingerBuild
Well-Known Member
Looks great man! I wish my spot welds came out that well.
As a side note, I have step by step pics on a front drivers side floor pan replacement and auto to four-speed transmission hump conversion. If anybody could recommend an easy way to make the picture files smaller so that I can upload them, I would be more than happy to create a thread similar to Rapom's.
As a side note, I have step by step pics on a front drivers side floor pan replacement and auto to four-speed transmission hump conversion. If anybody could recommend an easy way to make the picture files smaller so that I can upload them, I would be more than happy to create a thread similar to Rapom's.
rapom65
Well-Known Member
Wish my floors were as good as you think they look! The passenger side front is rotted out so it's replacement is next on the agenda. Then I have to find and fix the leak that caused it.
Although there are other ways to accomplish welding in new sheet metal I decided to use a lap joint/spot weld technique as it is simple and fast to do. Once seam sealer and paint are applied top and bottom it will look like any other seam on the floor.
Pic 1: Interior cleared out for the work. If using an abrasive disk to cut the sheet metal be sure to protect your glass by covering it (I tape cardboard over them). Hot sparks will pit glass very easily.
Pic 2: AMD replacement hump. Fit was exceptional except near the gas pedal where the panel was flat and the floor was curved. A little hammer and dolly work reshaped the curve in the floor after the hole was cut.
Pic 3: Floor was scribed around replacement panel, paint was removed a couple of inches on either side of the scribe mark and then a "Sharpie" was used to retrace the panel outline on the floor.
Pic 4: Another line was drawn approximately 5/8" inside the panel outline. This is your cut line as you need to create a flange to spot weld the hump flange to.
Pic 5: Hole was cut with a 4.5" grinder with an abrasive wheel. I forgot about my brand new air saw sitting in the tool box. There were 4 spot welds attaching the floor section to the trans cross member that needed to be drilled out. Be careful and don't cut into the cross member when you slice the floor. Inside of cross member was cleaned and painted as far as I could reach.
Pic 6: Bare metal edge was coated with SEM Copperweld (weld thru) primer ($27 a can-ouch!). I also removed the paint on the underside of the weld flange on the AMD hump and primed it with Copperweld per their instructions. Highly recommend not leaving the metal bare between the lap joint even though it is going to be sealed with brushable seam sealer on both sides.
Pic 7: Starting at the corners 1/4" holes were made approximately every 3 inches around perimeter of the hump. I used my air flanger/puncher but a drill would work just as well. Got my son (with safety glasses, stocking cap, heavy gloves and jacket) under the car to support the floor with a piece of wood as I pushed down and spot welded the hump to the floor. Spot welds were ground flat with a flap wheel on said grinder. Shot a couple of coats of paint on the spot welds and now it's ready for seam sealer and final paint. Front passenger floor pan replacement will be accomplished in the the same way.
Although there are other ways to accomplish welding in new sheet metal I decided to use a lap joint/spot weld technique as it is simple and fast to do. Once seam sealer and paint are applied top and bottom it will look like any other seam on the floor.
Pic 1: Interior cleared out for the work. If using an abrasive disk to cut the sheet metal be sure to protect your glass by covering it (I tape cardboard over them). Hot sparks will pit glass very easily.
Pic 2: AMD replacement hump. Fit was exceptional except near the gas pedal where the panel was flat and the floor was curved. A little hammer and dolly work reshaped the curve in the floor after the hole was cut.
Pic 3: Floor was scribed around replacement panel, paint was removed a couple of inches on either side of the scribe mark and then a "Sharpie" was used to retrace the panel outline on the floor.
Pic 4: Another line was drawn approximately 5/8" inside the panel outline. This is your cut line as you need to create a flange to spot weld the hump flange to.
Pic 5: Hole was cut with a 4.5" grinder with an abrasive wheel. I forgot about my brand new air saw sitting in the tool box. There were 4 spot welds attaching the floor section to the trans cross member that needed to be drilled out. Be careful and don't cut into the cross member when you slice the floor. Inside of cross member was cleaned and painted as far as I could reach.
Pic 6: Bare metal edge was coated with SEM Copperweld (weld thru) primer ($27 a can-ouch!). I also removed the paint on the underside of the weld flange on the AMD hump and primed it with Copperweld per their instructions. Highly recommend not leaving the metal bare between the lap joint even though it is going to be sealed with brushable seam sealer on both sides.
Pic 7: Starting at the corners 1/4" holes were made approximately every 3 inches around perimeter of the hump. I used my air flanger/puncher but a drill would work just as well. Got my son (with safety glasses, stocking cap, heavy gloves and jacket) under the car to support the floor with a piece of wood as I pushed down and spot welded the hump to the floor. Spot welds were ground flat with a flap wheel on said grinder. Shot a couple of coats of paint on the spot welds and now it's ready for seam sealer and final paint. Front passenger floor pan replacement will be accomplished in the the same way.
rapom65
Well-Known Member
My computer geek boy showed me how to use "PAINT" to resize my pics. It's a little cumbersome but now that I know how I can do it pretty fast. Open "paint", press the blue box with the down arrow to select pic to be resized from your files, select "resize" then select "pixels", change pixel count to 1000 x 750 (largest size FABO allows), select "save". Go to "add reply" on thread and then use "manage files" to upload pics. There are other programs but "paint" came on my computer. Hope this helps.
caferacerx
BAND MEMBER
so that is a 67 up hump in a 65?
rapom65
Well-Known Member
No this is in my '74 Duster. "The Mongrel" in my avatar is already tucked into bed for the winter.
caferacerx
BAND MEMBER
AH! I was hoping to see how a late hump fits in an early car
still some great info there on a job well done
still some great info there on a job well done
73SwingerBuild
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the pointer. I'll try that and maybe I'll start another thread. Never hurts to have more references.
-Mike
rapom65
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the compliments guys. Sorry don't have any pics of the install. I swapped the auto pedals out for a clutch set up after I rebuilt it. Straight bolt in swap, not too hard other than the space constraints working under the dash.
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