340doc
Well-Known Member
Got the bars with the new clocking and really satisfied, no problem getting height where I wanted and plenty of adjustment left.
Got the bars with the new clocking and really satisfied, no problem getting height where I wanted and plenty of adjustment left.
I'll be putting mine in tomorrow. Not sure if I'll get it finished up but that will happen this week. Glad to hear they went in well.
My hemi swap TTI headers are literally less than a 1/16th from my drivers torsion bar and I have no rattle or clunk. I have poly-loc engine mounts, so that may make a difference for engine mvmt and preventing any rattles/interference. Just a thought if yours makes noise...
Joe
Its good to know I'm not the only one that close. If I do have the rattle I was thinking of throwing on a torque strap or the mag style mounts from Mancini
Curious, what is the height you were aiming for? Factory? Lowered? Please let me know, as I'm interested in knowing what to expect from the new bars.
Thanks
Mark
Hey Mark, I'm lower than stock just a bit. I got just over 1/2 inch clearance on lower bump stop.
So from what you have described, sounds like they're working great. If you were so inclined, could the car be dropped, say 2" lower than factory? That's what I'm shooting for.
I know you were asking 340doc, but I don't think they will drop that far.
Someone recently said they backed the adjusters all the way out of the blocks and it was just a little lower than stock.
It only takes about 3 turns of the adjusters once these bars are in to hold the car at approximate factory height.
If I remember correctly just raising the wheels off the ground pretty much takes all the load off the bars to where they are loose at the adjusters.
They don't twist much.
I know you were asking 340doc, but I don't think they will drop that far.
Someone recently said they backed the adjusters all the way out of the blocks and it was just a little lower than stock.
It only takes about 3 turns of the adjusters once these bars are in to hold the car at approximate factory height.
If I remember correctly just raising the wheels off the ground pretty much takes all the load off the bars to where they are loose at the adjusters.
They don't twist much.
I was thinking the same thing, that the adjuster bolts are going to be out quite a ways. I just want to double check my install with you guys.
I had the LCA's laying on the k-member at about a 45* angle. I had the adjusters backed all the way out. Then had to twist the socket for the TB in the control arm and it actually raised the lever out of the arm then slid the bar in. I pushed the control arm to touch the TB and it was about half the distance it was before say about 20* or closer to being level.
Does that sound correct to you guys?
I wanted a little over stock height, and the PST 1.03 bars did it easily with about half the adjustment left and the lever is about half way between the adjusting block and the frame rail.
With 15 inch 70's I have about 2 inches between the top of the tire and the fender lip on my 73 Dart Hard top.
They adjust between a little lower than stock to about 4 inches over stock.
Man you are not kidding about the couple of threads. I was finally able to get everything buttoned up and the car on the ground. I spun the adjusting bolt in until it was flush with the bottom of the LCA. Dropped it down and it was sitting high enough I could crawl under it with out jacking it up, after I rolled it about 5-6' forward and back about 4 times. So I readjusted it until the bottom of the head of the bolt (near the threads) was flush with the bottom of the LCA. Dropped the car again and this time it was much closer to where I had it prior to starting. Except I really only have about 2-3 turns of it being snug on the arm with it suspended. This isnt going to cause a problem is it?
I measured both sides from the pivot shaft and the bottom of the lower ball joint. Both measured exactly the same. 11-1/2" from the pivot pin and 8-1/4" from the ball joint. Im curious because the LCA bump stop is about a 1/2" from the pad on the drivers side and about a 1/4" on the passengers. Why the difference?
I've heard the bars will relax some as I drive it so Im wondering if I should maybe raise it up a little bit to compensate or just do that at a later time when I notice its dropped? How will that affect the alignment?