Kelsey Hayes caliper pistons

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Good resources. Anyone know where to get stainless steel pistons? And is it difficult to hone the bores? Should this be done by a professional?

The bores usually need little or a touch of crocus cloth. The hardest part to clean up is the groove for the boots.

Some pictures in this thread http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=299221
and a link to a store selling SSBC brand stainless pistons for the '67-72 calipers
https://www.npdlink.com/store/produ...brake_caliper_stainless_steel-103845-350.html
 
I need the 4 bolts that hold the caliper on....... any ideas??

If you can't find originals, the route I would explore is top industrial grades (McMasters carries decent selection) and mil - areospace grades. For the mil (AN) bolts, you must know both the overall length and the smooth shank length. The purpose is to provide a stronger bolt. But you must be absolutely sure that the shank is not too long or the threads will bottom out. To make this easier, buy a pack of thick AN washers. Aircraft supply and racing stores (like Pegasus) carry AN and charts to help you select the right ones.
 
SS piston work out great. Went that route about 30 years ago after I got tired of doing brake rebuilds on the car since it sat a lot and they would seize up. Haven't touched them since except for pads and bleeding. One of the best things I ever did to the 67 GTS.
 
I rebuilt my KHs in 99, and installed DOT5. Absolutely no problems. Car now sits outside all winter,for at least 6 months of the year, with no attention at all.
FWIW, pad replacement is super easy,as well. Another thing I like is theres no slider to stick and burn up a pad or rotorface.They also have great seal retraction, which may help with fuel mileage.And excellent feel.
 
Sorry to hijack but are these calipers worth installing on a car if it originally came with drums; or is it better to go with the sliding caliper brakes?
The caliper and rotors are available as replacements (see rockauto, just eat the core charge), but you also need the special spindles and hubs, plus the unique wheel studs. Good luck finding all that. A rusty set commands $200. A member here has sold rebuilt sets for ~$750.

A slider set (1973+) is getting hard to find in the junkyard. You can use spindles from Aspen/Volares, but those are getting rare too. You can buy new slider kits for ~$600 on ebay. Scarebird is the best affordable approach, and uses your existing spindle, as does Wilwood and others. Read all about these choices in past posts.
 
4 year old question. haha. But yea. There are pros and cons to each system and you can make any of them work badly or good.
 
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