LA stroker Cast or Forged crank???

[Cudafever]

I don't need my car to go like Guitar Jones. LOL!!! I want it streetable.

Sorry i mist that little tid bit!ops::violent1:

With that statement, i MUST jump on the "Cast Crank Band Wagon".:thumblef:

 

[cannucky]

My builder swears I can safely spray another 150hp on top of the 524hp my motor makes with the Scat alloy cast crank he uses for his small block stroker builds , I too was thinking more is better and was prepared to drop the extra for both a forged crank and a X or R block but he convinced me it was a waste of money .

 

[1970Duster]

Something to think about but people just over look or don't know. My forged eagle crank, my forged eagle h-beam rods, and forged Ross racing aluminum pistons (with total seal gapless piston rings) weigh less then the factory complete forged setup! Just something to think about.

 

[70aarcuda]

Something to think about but people just over look or don't know. My forged eagle crank, my forged eagle h-beam rods, and forged Ross racing aluminum pistons (with total seal gapless piston rings) weigh less then the factory complete forged setup! Just something to think about.

Stock 340 pistons and rods are slugs.....with a stroker crank you will knock 0.36 inches of aluminium off the compression height of the piston along with lighter pins....should be alot lighter along with eagle H beam rods weight in about 680 grams compared to about 745 grams for the stockers....the scat 4340 I beams weight about 585...even lighter...

 

[340sFastback]

Just stay away from the Eagle cast cranks. I would avoid Eagle I-beam rods too.

 

[340sFastback]

Something to think about but people just over look or don't know. My forged eagle crank, my forged eagle h-beam rods, and forged Ross racing aluminum pistons (with total seal gapless piston rings) weigh less then the factory complete forged setup! Just something to think about.

I am sure, those stock parts are so heavy its not even funny....

 

[wheelsup73]

I too would recommend a forged crank. As far as Guitar Jones I read in another thread that he left his crank and rods on the race track last time out.

 

[cuda67]

Go forged! This will leave room to upgrade the power output. Cast youre pretty much hitting the limit.
Also it's better to have piece of mind and always overbuild your motor then that Intended app. that way you won't have to worry about breaking them. It's what I did with my 340.

X2, we are always looking to increase HP.

 

[Lonewolf3165]

I'd contact your engine builder, or Mike @ MRL if that's where you're buying your parts & see what they recommend. I'm pretty sure Mike would tell you what he's seen work & give you an honest opinion & good advice. Everybody here is gonna tell you based on their bias of what they use but few here build engines for a living & have the oporitunity to tear down & analyze the wear & tear on a daily basis like a professional does. A professional's advice would be well worth the cost difference of the 2 cranks.
Let us know which way you go & post a build thread here as you go.

 

[moper]

I also would not use an Eagle cast. Finish quality on Eagle forged cranks is good, not perfect, but much better than the cast. If it was up to me, I'd give BPE a try for a forged crank at a good price.
But - I stand with what I said - cast will work in most double duty engines. The rings and pistons will wear out long before the crank fails. Forged is nice to have in this instance, but not needed. The Scat cast will take much more than 500hp if the assembly is properly balanced and the block prep is done right.
If it's first-hand teardown experience you need here's a few:
410" - with oiling issues experienced that were caused by a "Pro shop" (not an advertiser on this board) - the MP/Scat cast currently makes a dyno'd 550hp N/A and 700 on the spray.
416" - lost several pistons due to another "pro shop's" negligence (again - not on this board). The MP cast crank and Eagle H beam rods had no damage. New pistons, rings, and cleaning and currently makes a dyno'd 502hp.
422" - Defective balancer ate the thrust bearing and then thrust flange on the crank in under 500 miles. Bearings showed minor contamination (iron embeded) but no signs of flex or detonation. That was an Eagle cast - it was replaced with Eagle forged and while is not dyno'd is making around 480hp.
Pros are human just like the rest of us...lol

 

[airwoofer]

I might give Mike a call myself, I've spoken to him a few times. He used to live real close to me before he moved to Chesaning.

I currently have Mike setting me up with eddy heads to match the roller cam he used in that blue stroker he showed here last summer that made so much torque on a 418. Real nice guy to work with.

I would go with the forged crank. The engine I bought from a member here had a Scat forged 4.00 crank but for some reason used a lot of mallory metal. Mike says they usually don't need any. So far 7000 a bunch of times and it is doing fine even with hyd 508 PP cam it used to have.

You missed a nice 11-1 Callies balanced rolling assy with 360 journals he had back last summer for a killer deal.