Leakdown test on rebuilt engine

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4spdragtop

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OK so I noticed a slight "hiss" when I was using air psi to hold valves up when installing inner springs. I thought I better check with a home made leakdown tester.
#1 TDC compression and 60 psi, I can hear "leak" at oil fill. So that indicates rings, which are new. Now this engine(340) has only seen runstand time, and I'm assuming the rings aren't broken in yet?
I'm "ready" to start installing this engine but wanted to be sure. On breakin I noticed no blow by and 80 psi.
Tots/advice?
Thanks
Steve
 
Did you do a compression test?
A Leakdown test?
A blowby test?

In your case;
First let me say; here is a wild card;
if the oil has been washed off the cylinder wall in the low-reading cylinder, for whatever reason, well; ALL BETS ARE OFF. Assuming this has not occurred, then;
If you only have 80psi cranking cylinder pressure in one hole;
Or, if you have over 4% leakdown, then
Notta chance would I install that engine.

I would go to the side with the low CCP, and remove the rocker gear. Then I would check the LD on the bad cylinder again, with the piston at the bottom of the bore, which, if the engine has not been rebored, is the part of the cylinder with the least wear, and compare it to the LD with the piston at the top/the most worn part.
When checking, use no more than 30psi.
1) If the two LD measurements are not the same, but are very close, then measure a few more and compare them. If you get more than 4%, again I say, not a chance would I install this engine.
If any hole is over 4%, in my book that hole is no good, unless you installed chrome rings which on the street is a bad idea.
2) but if the numbers are not close to the same, then I would check the LD at several points between top and bottom, looking for a scratch in the cylinder-wall. For this test, you better not use more than about 30psi for this, cuz on a 4" bore this will make 376pounds of force, and you will need a 2ft or longer bar to hold the piston in any one place accurately.
3) but if the cylinders WERE bored and honed, then there should be NO DIFFERENCE in the LD numbers from top to bottom.
4) if all the cylinders measure the same CCP within a very few pounds, but all are low, check your gauge calibration, then if the gauge is OK, check the cam-timing.
Depending on your Ica, the pressure can range something like 20 psi over 20 degrees, so I cannot tell you what your pressure should be without more information;
but if my stone stock iron-headed 318LA didn't make at least 135 in every hole, I'd be tearing it apart. and whatever iron-headed SBM I build for personal use, it will never be built with less than 155psi; course it will never be built with open chamber heads either, lol..
5) I reiterate;
if the oil has been washed off the cylinder wall in the low-reading cylinder, for whatever reason; ALL BETS ARE OFF.

Just for reference;
On one freshening (not a rebuild) my 367, with Plasma-Moly rings,
on the engine-stand; (NOT a run-stand)
and with no break-in (cuz the cam was the previously installed one);
The Compression test was 187psi on every hole, and
the Leakdown was too low to even measure on my 2.5" gauge.
After start-up, the blow-by gauge was very difficult to stimulate.
I love those Plasma rings!
 
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Aj, did u watch the video?
Did you do a compression test?
A Leakdown test?
A blowby test?

If you only have 80psi cranking cylinder pressure in one hole;
Or, if you have over 4% leakdown, then
Notta chance would I install that engine.
Just for reference;
When I freshened mine with Plasma-Moly rings,
on the engine-stand;
and with no break-in (cuz the cam was previously installed)
The Compression test was 185psi on every hole, and
the Leakdown was too low to even measure on my 2.5" gauge.
After start-up, the blow-by gauge was very difficult to stimulate.
 
Steve, don't panic just yet. Imo, the rings don't fully seat until the've been under load, like several 4grand decel's in gear, and that can't be replicated on a run stand. Just 1 cyl is a concern thou. Wish i had a quick solution, but if i think of something i'll chime in.
 

Im far from a professional but imo that is probably from the rings not been seated yet on a new motor! Mine did the same thing when the engine was new I could crank it over by hand and hear air escaping between the pistons and walls down to the oil pan. I freaked out of course. After the engine was broken In and I put a couple hours on it is no longer an issue
 
Steve, even when the rings seat 100% they will not seal a constant pressure 100%. There will always be some air that gets by because the rings have gaps. Go ahead with your plans for that engine. It's fine.
 
OK, thanks all, so more stupidity on my part(that tanks always full ffs)....I drilled a 3/32 hole. Too big to be able to differentiate between the 2 gauges. Hardware store tomorrow for a 3/64 bit.
Thanks again for the reassurance being a new build. @Bennoel 10 was generous enough to loan me his 4spd bellhousing, so I wanna be as sure as I can I'm good before I pull it from run stand as I wanna give Noel his bellhousing back.
Thanks!
Steve, don't panic just yet. Imo, the rings don't fully seat until the've been under load, like several 4grand decel's in gear, and that can't be replicated on a run stand. Just 1 cyl is a concern thou. Wish i had a quick solution, but if i think of something i'll chime in.

part way only

Im far from a professional but imo that is probably from the rings not been seated yet on a new motor! Mine did the same thing when the engine was new I could crank it over by hand and hear air escaping between the pistons and walls down to the oil pan. I freaked out of course. After the engine was broken In and I put a couple hours on it is no longer an issue

Steve, even when the rings seat 100% they will not seal a constant pressure 100%. There will always be some air that gets by because the rings have gaps. Go ahead with your plans for that engine. It's fine.
 
OK, thanks all, so more stupidity on my part(that tanks always full ffs)....I drilled a 3/32 hole. Too big to be able to differentiate between the 2 gauges. Hardware store tomorrow for a 3/64 bit.
Thanks again for the reassurance being a new build. @Bennoel 10 was generous enough to loan me his 4spd bellhousing, so I wanna be as sure as I can I'm good before I pull it from run stand as I wanna give Noel his bellhousing back.
Thanks!
No rush Steve. Do what you need to do and be satisfied everything is good. The bellhousing is just sitting in inventory and not needed at this time.
 
''OK, thanks all, so more stupidity on my part.....''
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Not even close...

Your doing a great job makin' it right. Being anal about building things is a positive trait...Ask me how i know... :)
 

Thanks Noel, I appreciate it! I just don't wanna be "that guy" lol. Plus if I still have it that means the engine ain't installed lol.
No rush Steve. Do what you need to do and be satisfied everything is good. The bellhousing is just sitting in inventory and not needed at this time.
 
OK, thanks all, so more stupidity on my part(that tanks always full ffs)....I drilled a 3/32 hole. Too big to be able to differentiate between the 2 gauges. Hardware store tomorrow for a 3/64 bit.
Thanks again for the reassurance being a new build. @Bennoel 10 was generous enough to loan me his 4spd bellhousing, so I wanna be as sure as I can I'm good before I pull it from run stand as I wanna give Noel his bellhousing back.
Thanks!
Steve the so called standard is .040" There's more to it than that, if you find the original aircraft spec, it involves orifice entrance and exit angles and such, but close enough for us rednecks. My 1.99 thrift store TI scientific calc (solar LOL) says 3/64 is .0467. If you can get a no. 60 "number drill" that is right on .040
 
Thanks Del, gonna see what local hardware store has.
Mike I'll get proper bit and retest #1cyl, but that's it for leakdown test for now as from what I've learned the rings aren't seated yet.
Steve the so called standard is .040" There's more to it than that, if you find the original aircraft spec, it involves orifice entrance and exit angles and such, but close enough for us rednecks. My 1.99 thrift store TI scientific calc (solar LOL) says 3/64 is .0467. If you can get a no. 60 "number drill" that is right on .040

following...
 
STEVE: DO NOT DO THIS OLD HOME REMEDY,WHATEVER ELSE YOU DO. The local "know-it-all" had that problem, years ago. Some old timer told him to put a little Comet in the cylinders and it would help seat the rings. This k-i-a decided if a little will do a little good, a lot will do a lot of good. He put 1/4 can of Comet cleaner in cyl and after about 5 min of run time, it locked up. DON'T DO THIS. HAHAHAHA.
 
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