LED bulbs for garage/shop

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Mostly I spend my time thinking about lights with wheels under them, but from time to time I think about ones that are intended to stay put.

There's a service called FromJapan whereby those of us outside of Japan can easily and cost-effectively buy stuff from the closed and opaque Japanese market. I've been using it for a few years for (big surprise) mostly car lighting equipment, though I've also recently been buying some other stuff, notably very-high-intensity LED bulbs. Japan's electric service (100v nominal) is close enough to North America's (117v nominal) for compatibility, and the plugs and lightbulb sockets are the same. I bought one of these 30w LED bulbs and put it in one of the ceiling sockets in my garage. Yep, it lives up to the claims. So when a customer recently had to have big round chrome yellow fog lamps (which are only made and sold in good quality any more in Japan) I also bought one of the 40w version, y'know, just to see what happens.

My laundry/utility room has two round porcelain sockets overhead, one over by the workbench and deepfreeze, and the other over by the washtub and washer/dryer. When my dad was growing up here, my grandma was doing laundry on what would've been an almost constant basis (grandpa liked gardening and fishing, and there were two kids, and no dryer) with that room barely lit by one 60w incandescent bulb (800 lumens) in each of those sockets.

From a couple years ago up til a few minutes ago, each of those sockets had a Y-splitter carrying two of these Feit 100w(equiv) 14.5w 3000K 1600-lumen bulbs, which are my go-to general-service bulb I put pretty much everywhere in my living spaces for lots of good quality light that's neither too yellow nor too blue and doesn't have any other weird colour casts, objectionable humming or buzzing, they're dimmable, etc. They're often on sale. Those four bulbs made the laundry room reasonably easy to work in, giving me 6400 lumens total (4× what grandma had).

A few minutes ago I removed that setup from over by the workbench and replaced it with the 40w bruiser from Japan. WOWWWWWWWWW!!! This makes the other side of the room with the twin Feits look dim. 25% more power (40w vs. 32w assuming claim = truth) and 25% more light (4000 lumens vs 3200 lumens assuming claim = truth). I would like to have a few more of these in the garage, basement, and other side of the laundry, though their 5000K "daylight" colour temp means I wouldn't want 'em in main living areas. Instant full intensity even at very low temperatures, very nicely made with a big finned heat sink, and the 4k lumens they put out is more than a 300w incandescent (which puts out 3600 lumens). All for the amount of power a standard fridge/oven bulb takes (40w). Seriously impressed! They're $25.37/ea bought one at a time, $22.91/ea bought two at a time, or $21.14/ea bought ten at a time.

I would like to play with one of these full-boogie LED floods. They come in 3000K warm-neutral or 5000K "daylight" white, and put out 4300 lumens (31% more than a 250w halogen flood).

BUT:

1. I don't often switch on the 250w floods around the outside of my house,

2. They're the big E39 ("Mogul") base, and my sockets are regular E26 ("Medium").

3. They're IP65 (means "highly waterproof"), but only if used in waterproof holders (which I don't have) like this—I'm not sure if these would be mountable on boxes available in North America.

4. They're $61.49 apiece—expensive for a "try it and see" item.
 
Hey Dan I live in Mississippi and have noticed some of my customers swapping the 8’ flouresent light bulbs for a 8’ led light. They are so bright they tell me now they have to keep everything clean because you see everything. I like led
 
What an enlightening topic in these dark days before Christmas! :)

I've been eyeballing LED lighting for awhile now but can't seem to shake the feeling the current prices are just the 'early stages' of the market and most manufacturers just try to 'grab' what market will bear.
I think, just like 20-30 years ago with computers/hardware, 5+ years from now LED prices will have come down to more sane levels.

Anything known first hand about what the realworld lifespan of these (quality) LED lamps is?
Compared to a 'regular' lamp which can last 5-10 years easily, the costs for LEDs are a bit insane still.
I know LEDs 'should' be able to last just as long or longer, my (little) experience of consumer LEDS tells me otherwise. Or are these the typical China-made LEC* lamps that crap out 3 months after they're unboxed?

*Light Emitting Crap
 
As part of my industry I have to deal with lighting. Personally I'm sick of the latest greatest thing (fiber optic, my, sv, t5, pc, xyz). LEDs so far have not lived up to the hype. I believe the technology is sound, but the QC leaves a lot to be desired. Sometimes I'm pleasantly surprised, but usually disappointed. The lighting output and quality is hit or miss, the energy and cost savings are usually WAY overstated, and the lifespan claims are a joke. If you believe the claims on lifespan every LED should still be going today. In many cases I find they burn out faster than standard lights. I let the customer pick their flavor and I don't offer opinions. I just make sure that any LED fixtures I install have a good warranty from a company that will actually honor it.
 
Interesting and timely thread. I replaced the overhead incandescent bulbs in my garage with LED floods from Home Depot. I was expecting blinding light in my work area and let's just say I was disappointed. My buddy found 4' LEDs on sale at the local farm and home store and he swears by them. That was going to be my next step. I have ONE bulb that sits directly over my engine/work bench. It's so high up on the ceiling that I get very little direct light under the hood of the car. I thought that placing the LEDs on chains and hanging them down closer to the ground might get more light under the hood?
 
I just wired up 4 of 12 LED 8’ twin tubes in my 48x64. I am going to be able to double my shop duty. When I’m not working on cars, it will be a tanning bed. I am happy with them.
 
I just put them in the barn to replace 4 foot fluorescents that I installed 20 years ago.
(The fluorescents were used when I put them in back then.)
Some fixtures I did this.
Lithonia Lighting FMLWL 48 840 4 ft. White LED Flushmount Wraparound Light-FMLWL 48 840 - The Home Depot

Check this out. You can save some money if you want to rewire yourself.
Some of mine I did this.
I got these on special purchase and only payed 10 dollars and change for each one.
This link doesn't always have the special price.
It changes.
TOGGLED 48 in. T8 16-Watt Cool White Linear LED Tube Light Bulb-A416-40210 - The Home Depot

Now we are reading things like this.
I'll just put some "black light" posters up.
Can LED Lights Damage the Eyes or Disrupt Sleep?
Can LED Lights Damage the Eyes or Disrupt Sleep?
2703.jpg
 
What an enlightening topic in these dark days before Christmas! :)

I've been eyeballing LED lighting for awhile now but can't seem to shake the feeling the current prices are just the 'early stages' of the market and most manufacturers just try to 'grab' what market will bear.
I think, just like 20-30 years ago with computers/hardware, 5+ years from now LED prices will have come down to more sane levels.

Anything known first hand about what the realworld lifespan of these (quality) LED lamps is?
Compared to a 'regular' lamp which can last 5-10 years easily, the costs for LEDs are a bit insane still.
I know LEDs 'should' be able to last just as long or longer, my (little) experience of consumer LEDS tells me otherwise. Or are these the typical China-made LEC* lamps that crap out 3 months after they're unboxed?

*Light Emitting Crap
The asphalt plant I ran for the better part of 30 years had a feeder tunnel. That's right, underground tunnel. Old rail tank cars welded together end to end with 400' of conveyer and little conveyors above it to feed the aggregate. It has to be lit? Right? As compact flourecents became available I replaced the old incandesents and I took my handy soap stone and on the wall of the tunnel wrote the date I did so. 24/7 they were on. There were bulbs in there that were 15 years old. New boss gets bright idea to replace them with LEDS. All they did was project a very bright spot on the wall on the far side of the tunnel, doing nothing for the work space. Glad I saved the floresents.
 
I replaced my two incandescent light bulbs in the garage with a pair of LED corncob lights 2 years ago. They are incredibly bright and make the inside of the garage like daylight using only 35w each.

They are so good, I replaced all the bulbs in the basement with them too.

IMG_0463.JPG
 
LEDs are like anything else: buy cheap ѕhіt, get cheap ѕhіt that works poorly for a short time until it dies. Buy good quality, get good quality that works well for a long time. There's a mountain of cheap ѕhіt on the market—avoid it. There's also a whole lot of really good stuff on the market. Buy products from companies who stand behind their product and constantly improve it, rather than from companies who import full containerloads of generic trinkets from China, slap a name on 'em, and cash in.

CFLs were never much good—and nobody ever claimed they were. They served one immediate need, they cut way down on the amount of power we use and pollution we generate to light our spaces. Light quality and other aspects of performance (cold start, etc) were poor. They served more or less adequately as a stepping stone, a sort of purgatory after stone-age glowing filaments but before LEDs were ready.

Tomorrow's LEDs will be better and cheaper than today's? Yes, for sure. But we're at a point where there are enough good, affordable, durable LED bulbs on the market that the total-cost-of-use math makes sense to buy now rather than continuing to pay higher electricity bills or put up with cruddy CFLs.

As for the thing about ZOMG LEDs ARE GONNA FRY OUR EYES OUT: Nope, read this. The Lighting Research Center at RPI is one of America's (and the world's) most highly respected research institutes in the lighting field—and deservedly so; they do good science there.

Effects on circadian rhythm (body clock): Yep, that's an issue being studied, and there's some substance to it. But in a world where we're surrounded by bioactive light sources (computer screens, phone screens, tablet screens, etc) this is not a sound reason for rejecting LED lighting in your garage or shop. The kind of light bulbs you use isn't going to determine whether you're gonna be out there at 2am rebuilding a carburetor.
 
CFL's will hopefully die a very quick death and no one will mourn their passing. Too unreliable, and sometimes char and smoke when dying. Plus the warm-up problems....

I have been slowly changing many apps to LED's and the cost savings are worthwhile. I have found Phlips BR30 LED spots to be rather unreliable however; some of them get hot and shut off and then on, over and over. The Sylvania brand has been much better. Still learning which is good for regular shaped bulbs.

Once thing I have learned for sure: the new electronic types do not survive hot, confined spaces as well as the old incandescent filament type. So neither is good for enclosed globes.
 
I had 6 100W incandescent bulbs in my back shop mounted in cheap ceramic bulb sockets. When I started having a hard time finding true 100W incandescent bulbs, I decided to check out LED shop lights (the ones that look like 4' Flourescent). All I did was replace the incandescent sockets with outlets and plugged the LED fixtures into the existing boxes. That way, if one goes out, I just unplug it and hang up a new one.

I just bought the $24 LED shop lights at Menards and hung them up near where the old incandescent lights were and I am happy with the outcome. I put them in last year and haven't had any issues with them. All 6 LED lights are still working and they light up the shop nicely. I still need a light if I'm working under a car on the lift, but that is to be expected. I had less light under there with the old lights.
 
My shop is 20'x24'. Just last month I replaced my 4' fluorescent lighting with 4" led lighting. Its now like working in daylight 24 hours a day. Made more of a difference then I ever expected. Also there wont be any starters going bad on these lights. Now, I was replacing at least 8-10 bulbs every 18 months because of burning out or they wouldnt start. Im hoping these LED lights will hold up over many years and that is unknown at this time, but I can certainly say they produce a much whiter brighter daylight appearing light then the fluorescent lights ever made.
Rod
 
Plus LED is not as yellow as incandescent or flourescent. LED is more towards blue.
 
I just bought 2 of the 3000 lumen shop lights in the "Tool Shed" brand sold by Rural King.
$24 ea, finally about what a standard fluorescent shop light costs.

They are WAY brighter than the 2x40w/34w FL standard shop lights currently in my shop.

However, they are quite harsh to look at if you happen to look directly at them compared to the F40CWs.

Interesting mentions of two name brands in above posts.

The first incandescent household lights I replaced with CFL were bathroom vanity bulbs.
We have 8 either 25 or 40w, and those are some of the most over priced incandescent bulbs ever made. We went many weeks with one or more burnt out.

Having 8 of them allowed me to test different brands, and I quickly learned that the new to me Feit brand was the more reliable. Phillips, OTOH, a nearly household word, was terrible. 30+% failure rate in under 2 months. I tried complaining on their web site, but wouldn't you know, the contact form errored out when the "submit" button was clicked. (it was this way for at least three months).
What does it say when a major tech company has a poorly written and monitored web presence?

Today, I'm also starting to install lighting for the newly added lower deck on my model railroad project. The room lighting that is placed to light the upper deck is T8 FL in spec 35 color temp.
It gives a kind of late afternoon sun effect.
I was able to find CE brand LED (another new to me name) 24" linkable narrow (1 inch) fixtures in 3000K color temp at 11w and 700 lumens. Linking them with the supplied 1 foot cable produces no shadow area between fixtures.

I'm claiming victory on that project.
 
Yeah, the first LED incandescent fixture bulbs we're Philips brand. One went out within a year, the other is still going. I think Philips got out of the market as I haven't seen any in a while. As for the color, it's usually because of filters. Color booths used for color matching will mimic different lighting, from daylight to sunrise or sunset. Flourescent and any other. When I commented on the color, I meant that was the standard that they use. And flourescent are better for long 'on' times. Look life is shortened with in/off cycles. Or they were when they came out. Haven't looked at them lately because I am turned off by the mercury warnings, not interested in using them anyway.
 
I think Philips got out of the market as I haven't seen any in a while.

What used to be Philips Lighting is now a spun-off, independent company called Lumileds. They still use the Philips brand name for light bulbs because of consumer familiarity.

As for the color, it's usually because of filters.

No, it's selection of the actual LEDs themselves.
 
What used to be Philips Lighting is now a spun-off, independent company called Lumileds. They still use the Philips brand name for light bulbs because of consumer familiarity.



No, it's selection of the actual LEDs themselves.
Interesting. Seems that the Kelvin/lumens of a particular light will determine the hue of a light, whether it is yellow tint up to blue; the lower the lumens the yellower it is. The higher the lumens the more blue. I did not know that. Thanks!
 
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Bring along a salt shaker when you're shopping for lights. That "Kelvin rating" stuff is thrown around as if it's this giant, big, massively important thing to the exclusion of all other things. It is not! Use it as a general guideline to know what kind of light you'll get—when a reputable manufacturer says "2700K", that's a yellow-orange-brownish white light like a regular old "soft white" light bulb. "3000K" is a warm (reddish) neutral white. "4000K" is a cool (bluish) neutral white. "5000K" is a cooler (more bluish), and "6000K" is even cooler (way blue). A higher number is not better; these aren't rankings or grades.

The reason why CCT (these kelvin ratings) are trumpeted so loudly is because fluorescent and LED light sources tend to be deficient in terms of another measure that's more important to how well you can see: CRI, Colour Rendering Index, that is how accurately the light source renders colours. Most fluoro and LED light sources are deficient in red, so items that are anything like red-orange-magenta-pink is going to look muddy or "off" (including people).

In itself that's not such a big deal when you're out in the shop working on car parts, but light that's too blue still makes problems. Light colour is a fairly complicated subject, but here are some key points:

Up to a certain intensity, compared to a yellower-white light (lower "kelvin"), a bluer-white light (higher "kelvin") causes about 50% more discomfort glare—WITHOUT any advantage in seeing. That is: given two lights of equal intensity, one producing a warmer-white light (yellower, lower CCT) and one producing a colder-white light (bluer, higher CCT), the warmer-white light will produce significantly less glare.

Above the threshold intensity, other effects come into play: blue and violet are the most difficult colors for the human visual system to process. Blue light scatters within the eye, and focuses ahead of the retina rather than on it. Prove this to yourself easily: next time you're in a window seat on a plane landing at night, take a look at the runway and taxiway lights: the amber, red, and green ones appear in sharp focus, but the deep blue ones look fuzzy. Or find a shopping centre with a storefront sign spelled out in letters lit in deep blue: unless you're at close distance, those letters' edges appear fuzzy, while adjacent signs of other colors don't.

How this matters to work lights, shop lights, street lights, and headlamps: if they're too blue, they create the very uncomfortable sensation of "light that's there, but doesn't work" (i.e., you can see that the light is on, you can see its light falling on the surrounding area, but you still feel like you can't see as well as you should be able to with that amount of light).

There is a small theoretical efficiency advantage to higher-CCT (bluer, colder, higher "kelvin") LEDs, which lets makers print higher output numbers on their packaging (never mind that a pretty large proportion of that bluer output is useless to your eyes) and marketers love babbling about "whiter" light (no, it's not really) and "closer to natural daylight" (no, it's not really), so it's easier to find high-"kelvin" LED lights.

Plus, there's all kinds of bulk wrap flushing around in the consumer lighting market. Not only people slapping whatever "kelvin" numbers they want on whatever light they want (calling a yellow or amber light "3000K", etc) but also this widespread nonsense about so-called "full spectrum" or "broad spectrum" light. Those are bogus terms; they mean whatever the marketer wants you to think they mean at any given moment.
 
Thanks again! I work with coatings, so lighting is very important to how you match paint. New information is always cool to hear. And who said you can't teach an old dog new tricks? I'm no where near an expert, but this has definitely taught me some things about lighting.
 
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