Left rear brake drum gets hot

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So I found a part number on the shoes. They go to a 1977 chevy caprice. The adjusters are on the correct sides, I pulled the cable the lever is attached to and it moves the adjuster out, and returns to its position once you let it go. I bought new shoes and one drum. I did find out the drum for a 77 caprice has a different bolt pattern, so they found one for a 68 charger and it looks exactly like the old one I had. The rear brakes both are getting to about 230 degrees now, vs just the left side like before. I lifted it up and notice the wheels will turn backwards somewhat easy, but like lock up when try to spin them forwards. I grabbed a wrench and opened the bleeder screw at the wheel cylinder on the left side, and no pressure in the lines. So I suspect the shoes are grabbing the drum and something mechanical is wrong.
 
Moparmadness408 said:
So I found a part number on the shoes. They go to a 1977 chevy caprice. The adjusters are on the correct sides, I pulled the cable the lever is attached to and it moves the adjuster out, and returns to its position once you let it go. I bought new shoes and one drum. I did find out the drum for a 77 caprice has a different bolt pattern, so they found one for a 68 charger and it looks exactly like the old one I had. The rear brakes both are getting to about 230 degrees now, vs just the left side like before. I lifted it up and notice the wheels will turn backwards somewhat easy, but like lock up when try to spin them forwards. I grabbed a wrench and opened the bleeder screw at the wheel cylinder on the left side, and no pressure in the lines. So I suspect the shoes are grabbing the drum and something mechanical is wrong.
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how tight is the emergency brake cable adjusted? are the individual cables, which go to each backing plate TOTALLY 100% free? they need to be FREE to apply when asked for and release completely when e-brake lever is released.
Maybe disconnect the e-brake cable from each rear shoe lever at each backing plate, and try driving it to see if it locks up or overheats again.
 
rustycowll69 said:
how tight is the emergency brake cable adjusted? are the individual cables, which go to each backing plate TOTALLY 100% free? they need to be FREE to apply when asked for and release completely when e-brake lever is released.
Maybe disconnect the e-brake cable from each rear shoe lever at each backing plate, and try driving it to see if it locks up or overheats again.
Click to expand...
That was my problem. The cable had just a slight amount of tension, and apparently that was just enough to push on the shoes and cause them to grab. I loosened that nut at the equalizer bar to the point where it sags down, and it made a huge difference. I thought as long as the shoes were resting against the pin on the backing plate it was all good. But today, I learned that wasn’t the case. The drums read 74 degrees and 87 degrees. You can actually touch them without burning your hand.
 
Moparmadness408 said:
That was my problem. The cable had just a slight amount of tension, and apparently that was just enough to push on the shoes and cause them to grab. I loosened that nut at the equalizer bar to the point where it sags down, and it made a huge difference. I thought as long as the shoes were resting against the pin on the backing plate it was all good. But today, I learned that wasn’t the case. The drums read 74 degrees and 87 degrees. You can actually touch them without burning your hand.
Click to expand...
I've found if nobody ever screwed with that cable adjuster, the oem setting is always just fine. If people screw with it, they are trying to compensate for a flaw elsewhere. The problem is these cars are 50 yrs old, and the chances that some less knowledgeable person hasn't dicked with the brakes is pretty slim.
 
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