Let's talk instrument cluster voltage limiters!

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mullinax95 said:
The DemonIVR is 33.55 shipped to your door if I'm not mistaken..... not $50.

Actually , the cost of shipping is up to 6.80 now. Makes the total 35.75
The replacement warrenty is up to 2 years now too.
All the more reasons I should update the DeMonIVR website. I need to put my universal lights on buzzer package on there too.
The computer stuff like html editor is not my long suit.
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RedFish said:
mullinax95 said:
The DemonIVR is 33.55 shipped to your door if I'm not mistaken..... not $50.

Actually , the cost of shipping is up to 6.80 now. Makes the total 35.75
The replacement warrenty is up to 2 years now too.
All the more reasons I should update the DeMonIVR website. I need to put my universal lights on buzzer package on there too.
The computer stuff like html editor is not my long suit.
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Bill is still stuck in his world.... noticed how he didn't even recognize my post? But the truth hurts sometimes doesn't it? LOL

You don't have to answer that RedFish..
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Sorry, mullinax95, if you thought my previous post was directed at you. I guess I should have made it clearer that it was directed at slantsixdan. I am sure the DemonIVR is a really nice product for someone who can afford it and doesn't want to construct a 7805 regulator, and it is cheaper than a stock voltage limiter. It's just that I'm a cheapskate. I didn't mean to offend you.
 
Bill Crowell said:
Sorry, mullinax95, if you thought my previous post was directed at you. I guess I should have made it clearer that it was directed at slantsixdan. I am sure the DemonIVR is a really nice product for someone who can afford it and doesn't want to construct a 7805 regulator, and it is cheaper than a stock voltage limiter. It's just that I'm a cheapskate. I didn't mean to offend you.
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Well from the way I read your posts it's like you are saying DemonIVR is a rip off or something of that nature.

If a man wishes to sell something I don't really think it's nice to put the man's product down for all to read. It's like these jerks that have to comment on a car that is for sale on here. They have throw their two cents in "Hey what you going to do about that rust spot on the fender?" Comments like that needs to be kept to themselves because like many times before it has caused chaos rather than make a good sell. I'm no angel I did it myself until I actually realized what I was doing. I never comment on someones items on here or else where that are for sale. Might ask a question but nothing degrading.
 
"Well from the way I read your posts it's like you are saying DemonIVR is a rip off or something of that nature."

No, not at all. I'm sure it's a fine product and very convenient for someone who wants plug-in replacement voltage limiter. I don't know how you got that impression from my previous posts. I tried to make it clear that I'm going for the 7805 solution just because I'm a cheapskate. And besides, I already apologized once for possibly offending you. Please don't ask me to apologize again. Thanks.
 
FWIW, I have had a 7805 based IVR in my 68 Barracuda since late 2000 and in that time I have driven almost 60,000 miles. The 7805 has perfromed flawlessly.

IMHO, if you don't want to build one yourself the DemonIVR unit at $35 is a very fair price considering that there is going to be about an hour of labor putting it together and testing it. With the RTE unit you need to temper the advertised advantages with the knowledge that they want to sell them so the advantages are going to be overstated, then make the decision if it's worth the price.
 
I did that to my dash in my '70 valiant and it works well! the only thing that you'll notice a difference is when starting the fuel needle goes up slower especially on cold days (like 32 or colder out) other than that it's a pretty good deal. Paid $5.67 for the parts at the Shack
 
so um anyhoo, did you ever get the voltage regulator problem fixed? I'de like to hear how it went.
 
Wow penguin dude, I didn't know you sold these. Filed for future reference. 8)
 
From Slant six Dan... "I would really rather fix one thing right than two things half-assedly. "

I have to agree with this.... and I now have a new word for my dictionary!
 
X2 IF YOU CANT DO IT RIGHT THE FRIST TIME THEN DONT BOUTHER TO DO AT ALL thats what i think and dan is NOT going to give it to you bad you my not like it but i found out a long time ago that Dan REALY knows his stuff Paul
 
it sounds to me like they have a buck converter in that case. these are adjustable and can be had for about a buck. they are way more efficient than the 78xx series regulators and provide a slightly pulsed output that makes up for stiction in the gauge bearings. they also briefly spike on power up that would warm up the gauges.
 
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kursplat said:
reason being?
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Simple. It's a 12V system. The gauges are calibrated using 6V so they read half way. WTH good does 5V do? They'll be "close" but never right. If you do a search you'll find people who confirm this. The 6V 7806 is the right one.
 
RedFish said:
I must warn you, DO NOT attempt to adjust your gauge.
I really should update the website. It says I use a sender to calibrate a gauge along with other "shade tree" like statements. Truth is I bought the book of factory specs for all Stuart-Warner / Mopar gauges and senders, along with the equipment to properly test and recalibrate when needed. Nearly every gauge I've touched has needed some adjustment.
There is a bimetal strip inside that bows when heated. Thats what moves the needle. Over time that bimetal strip gets a fixed bow in it where is was originally straight as a arrow. The adjustment is made with a small screw driver in those slots on the back of the gauge ( look again at your gauge ).
again I must warn you, DO NOT attempt to adjust your gauge.

View attachment 122715
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@RedFish your inbox is full
 
This old thread popped up. I recall there are much newer ones about cluster voltage limiters. I suggest a generic 12 to 5 VDC adjustable one, as I've used ($10, Amazon). They come in a small plastic case with ears to securely mount. I recall you can adjust up to ~7 VDC. I adjusted the output voltage to get the fuel level range correct, after adjust zero w/ mechanical adjustment on the gage. For an early A, you are replacing the internal limiter inside the fuel gage (must disable it), so there is no external can to match like in later custers.
 
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