Line lock options

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cli55er

cli55er

Tem Greene's Nephew
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What is your favorite line lock setup/brand? I’ve never put one on… but I’d like to with my updates on my project dart. Doesn’t seem hard… but just thought I’d ask.
 
You need a hydraulic solenoid about 2000psi and a couple of switches. That is all. You can buy a kit, or make it up yourself. Indicator lights are a bonus.
You need one arming switch, a simple on/off 12 volt item; and a momentary-on, that you can install on your shifter.. I installed a third switch in parallel with the momentary, that I use as a hill-holder, leaving my right hand and right foot , free, as in not on the brake pedal. If you have a manual trans, you will find that very handy, especially when starting off uphill from a stoplight.
 
My favorite was a Dico (might have been Mico)trailer brake. I bought it in the eighties at the OCIR swap meet for $35. Set the brake, it would hold till I kicked the brake pedal. Didn't need to hold the momentary switch.
When it finally died a bit ago, after 35 years, I went to get another. No overhaul kit I could find, a new one was $550.
Okay, something else.
Bought a summit version. I haven't installed it yet, doubt it will last 35 years.
Bought a version from Jegs a few years ago for a different car. Leaked fluid like mad.
For a recommendation? I would suggest the Hurst.
 
33IMP said:
My favorite was a Dico (might have been Mico)trailer brake. I bought it in the eighties at the OCIR swap meet for $35. Set the brake, it would hold till I kicked the brake pedal. Didn't need to hold the momentary switch.
When it finally died a bit ago, after 35 years, I went to get another. No overhaul kit I could find, a new one was $550.
Okay, something else.
Bought a summit version. I haven't installed it yet, doubt it will last 35 years.
Bought a version from Jegs a few years ago for a different car. Leaked fluid like mad.
For a recommendation? I would suggest the Hurst.
Click to expand...
I used to have a mico I think one failed, then had an all manual one on the old Landcruiser. You could set the brakes and move the lever, or move the lever and set the brakes. Obviously not for racing. It was meant for trucks, but for an old 4x4 it worked well. I've been stopped on hills so steep that the engine compression in gear would not hold it, in 4x4/ low range/ low gear. It would sit there a minute or 5 and then "poovvvv" it would roll over 1 cylinder, etc.
 
I would have bought a new electronic Mico in a heartbeat for a hundred bucks, and probably $150...... but when a summit is $65, and a Mico is $550.....summit it is.
 
sorry guys, i wasn't getting alerts on this thread. I was looking at the hurst version and a few other kits. I'm thinking steering wheel mount with the twirled wire and an indicator light on the dash, but not that huge red one you see in the kits. Just wondered what others were running. Thanks for the input.
 
The button, and it's location is your decision. With my Mico I didn't have to hold the button, so it was mounted where convenient, in my case on the shifter riser.
With the new summit line lock,, I will need a switch on the shifter, because I shift fron second to third in the water. My other cars used a button on the shifter knob
(The big giant knob button is usually used with a transbrake, in my experience. )
I mounted my tranbrake button on the trans tunnel (tall, custom aluminum tunnel) so when I let go of the button my hand was going TOWARD the steering wheel or shifter, instead of away.
 
33IMP said:
The button, and it's location is your decision. With my Mico I didn't have to hold the button, so it was mounted where convenient, in my case on the shifter riser.
With the new summit line lock,, I will need a switch on the shifter, because I shift fron second to third in the water. My other cars used a button on the shifter knob
(The big giant knob button is usually used with a transbrake, in my experience. )
Click to expand...

When I do a burnout....i usually drop the trans down to one and then shift if needed and my left hand is on the wheel. I was thinking it would be easy for my idle hand on the left to hold the button verses my shift hand moving up. I'd have to play around with it to see what was more comfortable for me....I've never used a line lock before.

no transbrake going in here. more of a street machine, with some track time. The most i'll have is a line lock and a two step (only cause the two step is part of the sniper EFI)
 
AJ/FormS said:
You need a hydraulic solenoid about 2000psi and a couple of switches. That is all. You can buy a kit, or make it up yourself. Indicator lights are a bonus.
You need one arming switch, a simple on/off 12 volt item; and a momentary-on, that you can install on your shifter.. I installed a third switch in parallel with the momentary, that I use as a hill-holder, leaving my right hand and right foot , free, as in not on the brake pedal. If you have a manual trans, you will find that very handy, especially when starting off uphill from a stoplight.
Click to expand...
i didn't think about putting in an on/off switch....i guess that would be good so you don't accidently hit the momentary switch for whatever reason....although you'd have to be holding the brake for it to matter, so i'm not sure the purpose of the on/off switch other then having to click one more switch before you can use the line lock.
 
If you have a manual valve body, I would avoid using first gear for a burnout! If you still have an automatic valve body, you don't have much choice. I would do some research on how to do a burnout with an auto valve body.
No worries about hitting the switch while driving, or going down track. I may activate the solenoid.... but it's not holding any pressure. Even if you inadvertent closed the switch and held it while stopping, you would still have rear brakes.
 
33IMP said:
If you have a manual valve body, I would avoid using first gear for a burnout! If you still have an automatic valve body, you don't have much choice. I would do some research on how to do a burnout with an auto valve body.
No worries about hitting the switch while driving, or going down track. I may activate the solenoid.... but it's not holding any pressure. Even if you inadvertent closed the switch and held it while stopping, you would still have rear brakes.
Click to expand...
its both. it'll shift on it's own in D.... or i can do it manually starting from 1 up to D. unless i'm misunderstanding. always dropped it down to 1 and did a burnout...never had a problem.
 
The idea is to AVOID first gear doing the burnout, if possible. If that isn't possible, there is a proper way...... but I just don't remember what it is. Either in "1" or "D".
All my 727 trans's have full manual valve bodies.
 
33IMP said:
The idea is to AVOID first gear doing the burnout, if possible. If that isn't possible, there is a proper way...... but I just don't remember what it is. Either in "1" or "D".
All my 727 trans's have full manual valve bodies.
Click to expand...
LOL...yeah my old motor didn't have the guts to start in D or 2nd even.....i would sooommmeettimmmesss get lucky after i put in 3.73 gears from the 3.23. the motor was tired....built in the 80s. but i got a new one coming that will put out 600hp....so it shouldn't be a problem lol.
 
bought the cheapest one on amazon, worked perfectly! just keep in mind that it's a 2 piece set up to get the brake lines from leaking, and the kit only gives you half, but you can get the other half at AutoZone for cheap too!

they let me do this!
 
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I used Hurst roll control on my manual trans dart.
Button on shifter ball.
I wired the light to the parking brake light in the dash.
I mainly do street driving. Have yet to get to a track in 6? years
 
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