Looking at a '99 Dakota R/T 5.9 Magnum

-
mario03srt

mario03srt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2015
Messages
830
Reaction score
255
Location
Hillsboro Oh 45133
All,

I found a 99 Dakota R/T with a 5.9 with 141k miles. After getting up on the keg intake issues and the small cracking in the heads, what should I look for when looking it over and driving. (low coolant, evidence of gaskets, running rough, cel's, oil contam, etc?) I believe it's being flipped and not a owner per se. I may run over and look. From what I hear it runs great. Getting it for a fall/winter project. It's yellow with a Rumble Bee tribute look.

Thanks,
Marion
 
I just got a 2000, biggest issue is rot, rot, rot. Look at the front cab mounts they seem to go first.
 
Also for some reason the lower rad support on the passenger side and also the bumpers.
 
Cooling system esp the heater core has been the worst issue by far for me.
50/50 one that year is already bypassed. Have to partially pull the dash to replace.

There was a ball joint recall but my 2000 never had issues.

There were transmission issues but mine never had those, either.

There was a cab leak related recall but again, mine never had it.

Surging can be map/maf sensor. Rough idle can be tps sensor.

On the positive side, mine at 177,000 miles runs just like it did when I bought it at 30,000 miles.
 
If Magnums run hot (gauge pegged hot) (note cooling system issues above) they can pop a head gasket or crack a head.

That happened to my 3.9. I had 2 blocks to go to get where I was going and didn't stop when the gauge went to max operating temp.

Fixed the leak issue and it never ran right after that. Had a rhythmic shudder, but other than that drove OK.

Never found out what it was but suspect what I said above.

Traded that truck in on the 2000 R/T, and have been extra careful about the cooling system.
 
Idler pulleys and tensioner pulleys can squeak frequently.
Annoying but cheap and easy.

Timing belt tensioner can loosen or fail causing the front end of the engine to sound like it's full of broken glass.

The steel freeze plugs in the front of both my heads rusted through at about 140,000. Thankfully neither of the rears have as of yet.

The ground between the body and the rear of engine failed at about 155,000 causing a no start condition. I added a battery cable between the same body location and the AC bracket, where the ground from the battery attaches.

255/55/17 tires are somewhat hard to find and can be pricey.
I'm using Federal brand via ebay right now.
255/45 (corvette size) are easier and cheaper but look silly on the rear.
 
Last edited:
I'm assuming you know about the oil getting sucked into the intake, through the bottom pan/cover gasket. The factory fix was a steel gasket, that usually resulted in a one and done repair. At that age and mileage, probably valves / valve train issues. Look for coolant at t-stat housing (not a big deal), timing cover to block - often, the timing cover gasket surface will erode. They can be fixed with a bit of skilled JB Weld application, and lots of luck. As mentioned, timing chain will most likely be loose.Use an aftermarket chain and gears. Rust is a big one, anything from frame to body. Trans / torque converter failures were very common. Look close at cooling system for sand like contaminants (though, that was more common after 2000). Rear diff wear, especially limited slip failure was also common. That's about all I can remember. Funny you mention this truck. There is one similar in Northern Wisconsin, for sale, only a few months after it being for sale in Whitewater (South). It is a very cool looking truck.
 
Number one thing to check is the frame. They rust out and crack. Also a R/T will have a Z in the vin.
 
Rot on the bottom of the doors, rear lower corners of the cab and the body mounts.
 
Rust is not much of an issue here in FL, but I've seen Northern trucks rust underneath the rear fender flares.

That's the first I've heard of axle issues.
Should be a 9 1/4. I tow and haul with mine all the time, and it's been rock solid.

Factory says "don't tow because of the plastic rear sway bar links", but it hasn't bothered mine in the least. I've even towed a few full size trucks with mine, some half way across the state.

I use it like a truck.
 
I will use mine like a truck. Leaving the crappy clear coat te way it is and just doing essentials on it now. I got lucky one owner truck never saw the winter here either, no rot at all.
 
YY1 said:
Rust is not much of an issue here in FL, but I've seen Northern trucks rust underneath the rear fender flares.

That's the first I've heard of axle issues.
Should be a 9 1/4. I tow and haul with mine all the time, and it's been rock solid.

Factory says "don't tow because of the plastic rear sway bar links", but it hasn't bothered mine in the least. I've even towed a few full size trucks with mine, some half way across the state.

I use it like a truck.
Click to expand...

Just a side note (I don't want to de-rail the thread) - I have had to rebuild a lot of Trac-loc equipped 9 1/4 diff's, DANA's, and even AA's. It's a strange thing, but geographic regions see different failures. I have a friend out West that never sees the failures I used to, and he has seen a lot, that I never saw much of here.
 
Heater core leaking AND AC CORE leaking. You have to pull the seats for room, drop the column AND YANK THE ENTIRE DASH to REMOVE THE HEATER/AC box.

If the fuel pump fails and you have an overhead area to lift/ hoist, just remove the bed. Faster and easier than dropping the tank I've forgotten.........6 or 8 bolts with an impact, pull the tail light wiring and unscrew the fuel fill flange and yank it right off

.Heater core has VERY small passages, and rust in cooling system can plug it I installed a water system strainer to try and help mine. Seems to have worked

Frankly I think the keg leakage/ head problems are overblown

If it has seen or you use it for off road be sure and inspect and properly route/ anchor the brake abs sensors. They "do other things" in the computer so they must work

Be aware that NONE of these 90's Mopars will run right in the event of a battery gone dead or a non charging system. Low voltage screws with the computer, and they will not run right or idle until the voltage gets back up and the computer "re learns"

I have pulled apart several of these all with over 150K and a couple way over 200K. I was amazed at the (good) condition of the crank, rods, and cylinders, and even valves. Biggest wear issue I've seen is that the cam starts to "pit" as if the core has cavities. The lifters (mostly) still looked OK except for a couple

Personally I think the front differential is a joke. (A joke on us) It is the smallest lightest differential I've ever seen. I would not want to put that thing to much hard use. It's aluminum and tiny.
 
Last edited:
I have a complete 5.9,tranny,injection harness,and ECM out of a 80k mile 99 Dakota R/T. $750 for everything
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top