Low mount Alternator bracket

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M

MACKIN

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Has anyone successfully used Moroso bracket to mount a one wire alternator? http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=30001


I have really no other option but to mount low as I'm running a CSR electric water pump. I also have a Billet Mach V-belt crank pulley installed so I'm not looking at this point to go serpentine or back to OEM water pump.

Looking to run a 100 amp 1 wire set up. Should be ample even with electric fan,water pump,fuel pump and misc guages ,lights etc. Non Hvac car.

Suggestions? I'll get some pics up of the motor soon camera is MIA

TIA
 
Come on really nobody can help <sad> What I found out is Moroso sells a bracket BUT not for use with a CSR electric pump unless you shim it out more. Anyone do it? Then you run a mini alt denso style. This is very egg-spensive rout.

How many amps do you think I need for a ,electric fan,fuel pump,electric water pump and all the usual stuff lights guages perhaps tunes.

Here's the motor still in progress buttoning up. Enjoy

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Sweet looking engine.
Sorry, can´t be of any help to you.
Hope someone can give you the answer you´re looking for.
 
Yes I was to lazy to put the headers on. For HELP maybe :grin:

Here is the color the car is going to be painted,as of today,I've changed my mine 3 times so far. I had a lil accident with my bike coming home from a fall ride. A strap broke in my enclosed trailer and it fell over on my buddies Roadking's crash bar.

I figured I'd have matching sets. :grin:


Was done at Unlimited Motorsports in South Windsor CT, I know the owner Chad pretty good and the color mix is sworn to secrecy so don't get any ideas! :grin:

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Here was the original paint on my HD. It was sweet but HD WOULD NOT give up the paint codes. Could NOT get a good match and the insurance would not
buy the three NEW pieces of tin so I ended up repainting the whole scoot.


Come on folks pretty please Alt mount tricks or trys. I'm begging

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Mac, great lookin motor! Is that tie raps you are using on your wires? Keeps them neat, I never thought of that.
 
Sparky said:
Mac, great lookin motor! Is that tie raps you are using on your wires? Keeps them neat, I never thought of that.
Click to expand...


Pretty much. I'm a real stickler about wire be it all electrical organizations. Can really make or break a job. Nope not in the electrical field either.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
Its a bad idea.... Very bad idea.
Click to expand...


Would you elaborate more please. I've read where many have said no problems others like yourself have said no way.

I understand the whole pressure issue in addition this will be constant flow verses variable. My set up in particular I felt that being a complete NON HVAC set up ,no T-stat no Heater core etc etc would result in a pretty cool running engine. No? I could run pusher or puller fan.

Or is it reliability?

I have put a Radiator support in ,in stock location. In addition there are no inner fender wells so there will be plenty of air circulation. Also this isn't a car I'll be running from CT to PA

What am I facing as NOW is the time to retort.
 
There is a reason you don't run an electric water pump on the street.... Several reasons.

First lets clarify a street car... I should have asked if it was going to be for a daily driver.

An electric water pump is "OK" if it is a street car with VERY limited street use (250 miles a year or so).

When an electric water pump fails it gives no warning. A belt driven pump will often start to leak or make noise. The warning from a standard pump will give you time to get it fixed. Hell you can drive around for a month with a leaking standard water pump.

Electric water pumps are not designed for continues use, or continues use in high vibration dust environments. For example... A healthy street car with no inner fenders.

Electric water pumps are not used by NASCAR, custom builders or on regular production cars for the reasons above.

Really... Its your engine... Sure it will cool until it doesn't. Then you are SOL.

I know you want an argument as to why you shouldn't run one...

But what is needed here is a argument for running one.

BTW... You should run a T-Stat even if you don't have a heater. It helps in engine warm up, thats what it's there for.
 
Thanks for the information. No argument for or against needed and I've pretty much heard or seen similar statements except the dusty part. Seems pretty much a sealed motor so I cannot see where dust would contribute to failure. I'm not in a dusty area so to speak anyway.

Car will not be a daily driver of what most would consider a daily driver. It seems reliability is the key or shall we say main concern not so that they wont adequately cool.Having a spare motor is a easy alternative for mechanical failure. Obviously a good temp guage is in order to form a temp platform to follow . Hopefully there wont be any issues but if need be I would not have a problem switching to mechanical.

The T-stat was a toss up and I'm going to see where it runs temp wise . I thought either way your going to have to either take it out or put one in so I just picked a starting point,out.Plus no need to plumb a by-pass line.

It will be a fair weather summer car PERHAPS with an occasional off season rip around.

--------


Guess I'm on my own on a Alt bracket.
 
Pretty much all the horror stories about electric water pumps are urban myths from when the technology was still new; kind of like the horror stories you hear about using nitrous oxide.

The reliability issue from continuous use can be completely negated by making the water pump either manually controlled with a switch or thermostat controlled just like using a fan relay and actually a company sells a set up specifically for this; a simultaneous but independent thermostat controlled switch. Basically, it will automatically trigger the water pump to turn on at one temp and the fan at another.

The technology has come a loooong way and should be fine unless you are putting 50 miles or more A DAY on it everyday and this comes down to run time on the electric motor. I plan on running mine in Hawaii with crappy traffic and temps in the 90s in the summer. PLUS, you gain an automatic 10-15 HP over the entire RPM range and mostly on the bottom end and improve gas mileage AND they look good. I have read plenty of reviews and a vast majority of people dont have a problem with them so long as they are set up right. Also, think about this, if it does over heat than you can literally shut the motor off OR just let it idle, turn the pump on, and flow close to sixty gallons PER MINUTE of water threw the engine. My crank driven pump is nice hi flow aluminum piece and at 2000 rpms only flows 37. Thats almost twice the cooling with no load on the motor, seems much more efficient to me and really a no brainer if the car is not a daily driver.

NOW did you ever find a bracket that would work? I ordered the Denso alternator kit and TOTALLY did not think about the whole bracket thing, went to go put it on today took one look and said. . ."****."

Seems like - as with everything else - Chevy guys have it easy, I found three or four companies that make a kit specifically FOR the Chevy but none for the small Chrysler.
 
Two things in addition to that, one, the Toyota Prius utilizes an electric water pump, I see enough of them on the road to believe technology must have come a long way. Also, you could toss a fan/water pump belt and not notice and SEVERELY over heat a motor really quick, at least with an electric pump your fan would still be going.
 
I checked that out, sent the guy they were talking about an email. The Mezziere pump LOOKS similar to the CSI one but I'm sure looks doesn't cut it when your talking about a cad design program ;)
 
I've been running an electric Mezziere pump on my RB for almost three years now with no issues. The car is street driven but mostly just to local shows and some local cruises. I also have no T stat and run a restrictor - also never had an issue overheating, even in 90 degree weather. In fact when I first bought the car I tried to run a T-stat thinking it would be better - but every time I shut it down after running the upper hose would get sucked in (no bypass on the pump) so I have to run w/o a T stat. They do have a more limited life than a crank driven but the new ones today are good for 8000 hours or more -which is a whole lot of driving time.
I do like to be able to continue to circulate the fluid when I shut down for a few minutes to cool the motor down.
 
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