Lug Nut Removal Help Needed

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I use a socket that's just bigger than the locking lug-nut. Take some 80 grit sandpaper and fold it in half. Wrap it around the nut then pound the socket on over the paper and nut. If you do it right it should be a very tight fit. Once on just use your impact wrench to remove it.

I've done this many times and if the nut isn't siezed onto the threads, it should work for you.
 
Already mentioned but a few carefully placed ratatats with the air chisel may bust it lose. I purchased an old Ford pickup many years ago where the locking key was lost and a mechanic friend used the air chisel to remove all 20 of them.
 
i had the same problem while back. I got some off by driving a metric socket on the nt, the last ones came off with that reverse cut socket mentioned earlier. a set of 4-5 sizes cost like $10-12 shipped off feebay. it was worth the $$ for me.
stupid locking lug nuts and dumb *** over sized wheels and band aide tires. Ha!
 
Angle grinder with a wafer wheel ?
Cut just enough until before you contact the wheel.
Then chisel or impact gun.
Lug nut should split.

???
 
Dfr360cuda said:
Angle grinder with a wafer wheel ?
Cut just enough until before you contact the wheel.
Then chisel or impact gun.
Lug nut should split.

???
Click to expand...
yes what he said and grind or cut off the "cap" or top so you can get to the threads to either try the wax or get some penetrating oil on the threads
 
Hold on, removing the axle nut is baby **** compared to using an impact. Its on with like 6 ft/lbs of torque. Is it a drum? Remove the grease cap or whatever the slots have over the nut and remove the cotter pin and castle. remove nut and pull hub off spindle with wheel in tow. Possible? You could even roll it off without lifting if your back is jacked. If you dont have a grinder, just use a 1/2 drill on the stuck stud head. Disk will still have the caliper to hold it on.....
 
pishta said:
Hold on, removing the axle nut is baby **** compared to using an impact. Its on with like 6 ft/lbs of torque. Is it a drum? Remove the grease cap or whatever the slots have over the nut and remove the cotter pin and castle. remove nut and pull hub off spindle with wheel in tow. Possible? You could even roll it off without lifting if your back is jacked. If you dont have a grinder, just use a 1/2 drill on the stuck stud head. Disk will still have the caliper to hold it on.....
Click to expand...


Thanks to all respondents for your suggestions. I have tried a couple of other things and it looks like the easiest approach at this point is going to be to remove the wheel/tire intact by pulling off the spindle nut and grinding off whatever is on the hub end and driving the threaded portion out from the back side. Ugh! What a freaking hassle!! Pishta, back is good now, just got the post-op all clear from the doc to work my way back to normal stuff. Yay!
 
Yote said:
Use a moto tool. Cut the darn thing off and install a new stud.
Yote
Click to expand...

Success!!! I ended up using a cut-off wheel to cut off the nut as close to the whesugel as I could. Then I used the cut-off wheel to cut an "X" across the top of the stump that was left. Then gradually cut it parallel to the face of the wheel until I got to the washer under the nut. Then I used a punch on an air chisel to pop the wheel off. The studs did not extent past the face of the wheel, so I was able to save the stud (not that it was a primary goal). Now I just have the short piece of the shoulder from the nut to remove from the stud, but this shouldn't be tough. Thanks again for all the suggestions guys! L8r

Jim
 
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