LUNATI 60403LK - 494/513

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rtee007

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Anyone have any words on this camshaft?
(360/727/8.75sg 3.55 unknown stall, 3400# car)
  • Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 268/276
  • Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 226/234
  • Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .494/.513
 
What do you plan on doing with the car that you put it in? Is it going to be a street car, a race car, or a dual purpose car. Personally, I'm running a solid lift Comp.cam that is .585 but my car is "race"only.
 
What do you plan on doing with the car that you put it in? Is it going to be a street car, a race car, or a dual purpose car. Personally, I'm running a solid lift Comp.cam that is .585 but my car is "race"only.

Just a street car. No drag racing. But I was told it might be too much for the compression ratio of the engine. I have no idea what CR this engine has.
 
I just installed this cam in my Scamp this spring. Love it so far.
360 with 10:1 compression. IMM LAX heads. Hughes 1.6 rockers. 3.91 sure grip. 904 with 2500 stall.
Mild lope at idle and pulls hard to 6000 rpm.
Ran a 13.11 in the quarter mile at over 105 mph (2700 foot elevation). Also runs great on the street.
 
If the engine is in the car and if the valve guides have not been machined for aftermarket guide seals you may have retainer to guide clearance issues. You should check to be sure how much clearance you have before deciding on the lift. A typical max people use is 0.500 lift for stock guides. Always best to check and not rely on these general rules. If you are rebuilding the engine and heads are off then you can have the machine work done if needed.
 
Ran that cam in my 416 when it was first built excellent results..all the Voodoo cams perform great i've used 3 different grinds..
 
Lunati cams work great. They were designed by Harold Brookshire a cam designer and a very smart man. He started to work for Comp Cams in January 1977. In April 1980 he opened his own cam company UltraDyne. He then went to work for Lunati in August 2003. He said his Voodoo cam lobes were easier on the valve train compared to Comp XE cam lobes that closed hard and the Voodoo cams made more power, then the Comp XE cams with the same lift. To bad he died this year. RIP Harold
 
That is some interesting history there. I have never ran one before. I bought this from a friend who passed away a year ago. He had quite a collection of parts. I bought quite a bit from them.
Perhaps I can find a Lunati camshaft that will work without having to buy heads or have machine work done.

Any recommendations on max lift?
 
Springs retainers and locks should be good to run that set up. Like anything, check to maje sure you have clearance. Lots of engines got 508 hyd cams and never got any machine work done to them!

You might net 480 on the intake and 500 on exhaust for lift.
 
Excellent combo minus the unknown stall & compression. A mild mill of the heads would help a little bit. A 2500 stall would be good. Like mentioned above. Wild Bill did pretty good at that elevation w/the 3.91's.

With your 3.55's, it should pull long and hard.
 
I run that cam in my duster. It idles decent and pulls hard from 2500-6000(sure it has more still but rev limiter) I am running 71 2.02 J heads 10.1 with no issues. 6 pack with nitrous

video of that cam pulling to 5k


For clearance you would have cam installed rocker on and get to the highest part of the lift to check to see if the retainer hits the valve guide where the seal goes. I don't think my j heads were touched and had no issues. 1.5 ration rocker
 
wonder if the 701 or 702 would be a better street cam with more lo rpm torque?
213 / 220 454 / 475
220 / 225 475 / 494
 
I ran that cam when I was running a naturally aspirated 408, it pulled good and had a good idle to it.
 
If your 360 has stockish pistons, then the cam won't be too much for the engine in terms of detonation problems or anything like that. But it might be too much in terms of lowering torque at the low RPM range. with a stockish type of torque converter and too low of a CR with too big of a cam, then what will tend to happen is that the engine will bog as you try to take off, will just kinda lazily rev up to a certain point, and then take off. For street use, that will be an unhappy combination as that is where you want to do a lot of driving: lower RPM ranges.

The typical solutions are to
1. Raise compression ratio (piston change) to recover the lost low RPM torque and widen the torque curve
2. Raise the stall speed of the TC (TC changeout) so that the engine revs past the bog range and gets up into the good RPM range when you take off. The higher stall speed can have some adverse effects on mileage and trans heating.
3. Use a different cam named a torque cam that has lower duration numbers but keep higher lifts. The Lunati Voodoo cam series like you have is about as good as that gets in a hydraulic lifter cam. A lower duration version would get past the bog.

For street, I'd go for 1 or 3 above, but opinions vary as to what constitutes 'street use'. And this is all predicated on you have a lower compression engine to start with.

Have you run any compression tests on the engine? And do you know if the cam is stock? If so, a compression test will give a general idea of what CR you have.
 
Instead of tearing into this 360, I have a complete Magnum core out by the garage from a 1998 Dodge truck. Guess I will just build on that.
The decision now is how to build it. I will probably use the stock crank and rods, adding some good pistons.

Any input from you all is always welcome.
Street ride, pump gas (93), #3500 car, 3.55sg and a push button 727. No PS, PB or AC.
 
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