Lunati Voo Doo Cam.

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Got a A833 with 3.23 rear gears as I live in the country & half my driving is doing 65 mp/h. I know the 3.23's are letting me down. Rear tyres are 255/60/15's.

That cam will NOT like the 3.23's with a 27" tall tire. I drove my car with 2.94's for a bit, it was not a good combination. There's a reason Lunati recommends 3.73's for that cam.

Unless you're planning on installing an overdrive transmission you might want to seriously consider the next cam down, the 10200703. It will be a lot happier with a set of 3.23's or 3.55's, and if you're spending half your time at 65 mph or above you probably won't want to go much lower than 3.55's.
 
that voodoo or
.506 267 220 140@200 Howards B/RB &LA 1600-5400 ( HM2203372A intake lobe) 1800-5800

{ 506/506 267/267 220/220 108/104 smallest .904 shelf cam 1500-5400 wants headers }

a little tighter on the LCA than the 268 voodoo 108 vs 110
 
I have the 703 in a .030 over 340.
One day a lifter decided it did not want to pump up.
Bent a push rod, and trashed a rocker arm.
The plunger in the lifter was stuck all the way down.
Replaced the lifter, the cam "looked fine" still have a slight lifter tick from that cylinder to this day.
 
All this makes me wonder... the only camshaft I have ever had that was noisy was a Comp Cams xe268h. It was noisy from day one and I never did like the way the car ran. That is why I replaced it with the VooDoo 703 cam. I changed only the cam, lifters and springs as called for. The engine other than the cam is all the same and it runs great, is quiet and is so much more driveable it's not even the same car. They are both fast ramp cams, so why would one be noisy for some people and not for others? The Comp Cams and lifters I took out look great, no ware at all but I wouldn't even give it to someone because I would want to piss them off. Shitty grinds from two different companies? Maybe someone got fired at one place and got hired at the other.
 
The 268 comp was a 1977 U D Harold Berkshire design- i.e. not his earliest but early maybe not hand calculator but early 8 bit computer
The Lunati Voodoo was after Ultradine- perhaps Harold had better tools or had learned a thing or two
I'm not a big Harold Berkshire fanboy- we used some of his General Kenitics profiles which were even earlier
But he left us all too soon
That 268 comp is still one of the most popular cams- if you like chevy cams or if your motor does
If I was getting a cam I'd figure out my intake closed point and intake duration
or use the Controlled Induction Package
then check with Jones, Howard, Bullet, Lunati, Crane, Engle, Crower for a profile to match Comp does have 3 choices now 10 degrees apart 274-284-294 @.006
some others have them at 2 degrees, then there are torque vs rpm lobes, intake vs exhaust lobes, street vs race (more spring high maintenance) etc
when comparing profiles Jones, Howard, Bullet Comp and Lunati use .006 Crane .004 Engle .008 and Crower varies
The chevy guys in the tech lines always steer you wrong
 
Well glad that 268 Comp Cam is popular with someone but it sure as hell ain't me. I'll take the Lunati :)
 
They are both fast ramp cams, so why would one be noisy for some people and not for others? The Comp Cams and lifters I took out look great, no ware at all but I wouldn't even give it to someone because I would want to piss them off. Shitty grinds from two different companies? Maybe someone got fired at one place and got hired at the other.
Oil weight and type has an effect too. I have found that the thinner actual viscosities of synthetics at even room temp makes lifters noisy when cool. And different weights of the same type can have an effect.

I also wonder about the exact lifter employed in these cases.. regular or anti-pump up can make a difference.
 
I run a slightly milder cam in my 367; an old Hughes 230/237/110, .549/.571 lift with 1.6 roller-tipped only aluminum rockers. But I think those old Hughes cams were spec'd at .008 lift.I also use their Anti-pump-ups at 1/2 turn preload and their springs, on the Eddies.
I really like this cam, but I did have to swap in the 3.09 low-gear ratio set to be able to continue using my 3.55s. The 2.66 low was just not doing it for me. Now it's a dump-it-and-go deal. The 3.09 is plus 16% more starter gear, just what she needed. With a 2.66, you would need 4.10s to compare.
But of course 4.10s would put you at 70~3700 with 26" tires.
Whereas with 3.55s it would be ~3200, except with a GVOD,~2500.
That Hughes cam has cruised thousands and thousands, and thousands, of miles, at 2100, allbeit with a ton of advance, and has always burned 87E10, with over 175psi cylinder pressure (10.9Scr); yay alloys! And no I don't stomp on it in overdrive,lol.
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AJ's ramblings,
In a 340,with alloys, I think it will like even more than 10.9Scr.
I sure would NOT run it on the street,at 9/1, with 3.23s. Well, I wouldn't run it at all with 9.1,lol. Even with a clutch...... cuz the vast majority of time, you will NOT be just taking off, NOR racing, NOR doing anything, but cruising.And your primaries will be nearly closed, and your effective compression ratio (not SCR, and Not Dcr) will be waaaay down, perhaps at 5/1 or even less. And 9/1Scr will be just wasting vast amounts of fuel..... because that 704 is not a cruiser type cam,lol.
But why does it waste fuel? Cuz at 5/1 and near-closed throttle, the fuel cannot find enough oxygen to react with..... until you fatten it up, and then a bunch of it goes right out the tailpipe having never contributed it's potential energy, and that would be with proper ignition timing.
With 3.23s you will be doing 70~2920rpm, with the primaries barely open. The engine will want about 50 to 60 degrees of advance, for you to lean it out, giving the fuel extra time to find oxygen, and still provide the push at the right time. Where are you gonna find that advance? More Scr will reduce your timing requirement.
So then in an effort to get some semblance of fuel economy, the more compression that you can run, the better. Plus it just makes the engine wake up so nicely.
Normally we don't care about economy with big cams. But if over half your miles are gonna be hiway, and I know your gas ain't cheap down-under, so it might be important to you. I know it was to me, and every part I put into my engine reflected that....... until I got a little better off financially, and slammed the big-cam into her. But by that time I already had the overdrive.
Your requirements might be different lol.
 
FYI AJ & everyone else here's a pic of the dyno sheet, (RWHP).

P7110036.JPG
 
What was or is the difference between the red and green lines. I’m taking noticed to the low end sip in the lines and how well improved the red is over the green line.
 
What was or is the difference between the red and green lines. I’m taking noticed to the low end sip in the lines and how well improved the red is over the green line.

Hi Mate,
The reds torque & the greens hsp.
 
Normally we don't care about economy with big cams. But if over half your miles are gonna be hiway, and I know your gas ain't cheap down-under, so it might be important to you. I know it was to me, and every part I put into my engine reflected that....... until I got a little better off financially, and slammed the big-cam into her. But by that time I already had the overdrive.
Your requirements might be different lol.

My Demon's only a sunny sunday driver so I do about 4,000 miles a year in it. for that reason I only put 98 RON in it. Yes 98's dear here, about $1.70/litre but like I mentioned it's not a DD.
AJ I'm I wasting my time putting 98 in it when the compression looks like 9.0:1?
 
You can always try and ask out T-Mobile down and see how it works. Just a small amount will do, a couple of gallons that’s it. If the fuel doesn’t work out, you can always load it back up with what it likes.
 
You can always try and ask out T-Mobile down and see how it works. Just a small amount will do, a couple of gallons that’s it. If the fuel doesn’t work out, you can always load it back up with what it likes.
Yes, easier to just try the lower octane than try to figure it out! Just listen for knocking at medium to hard throttle, and back off if you hear it.
 
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