The "safety squint" lol
Manifold Lift Plate
- Thread starter Bodyperson
- Start date
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mopar head
DoD nuisance Alien/Squatch extermination team
I think allot of us might say a quick prayer to the motor gods with every lift.
Just watch yer toes, always watch yer toes. lol
Just watch yer toes, always watch yer toes. lol
H. Lindley
New Member
A Mustang magazine actually tested a lift plate years ago. They bolted an aluminum intake to a fixture and hooked up a load cell to the plate and started pulling. At 6000 lbs. the eye in the lift plate failed. They installed a more robust homemade plate and pulled again. The carb studs started to stretch at 8000 lbs. The threads in the aluminum intake never failed. You can lift your car with a lift plate on an aluminum intake.
dr dodge
Active Member
how many times do you stress a connector before it fails from lack of strength
a plate offers no way to change it's angle vs equalizer
just don't break a bolt, cascade the rest, and have a 400 w/ all accy, and trans end up
wedged between the master cyl, firewall and the previously virgin exhaust in my '78 d150 service truck
all the threads on the first bolt that failed, were still on it (from the manifold)
never again, and un balanceable, too
good luck and be safe
dr
a plate offers no way to change it's angle vs equalizer
just don't break a bolt, cascade the rest, and have a 400 w/ all accy, and trans end up
wedged between the master cyl, firewall and the previously virgin exhaust in my '78 d150 service truck
all the threads on the first bolt that failed, were still on it (from the manifold)
never again, and un balanceable, too
good luck and be safe
dr
dr dodge
Active Member
that is not realistic in the bounce wamp pry and pray of engine swaps
no plate carries the load evenly. some bolts carry more than others
Only time to use bolts with a plate is when you run long enough ones to put a nut on them to secure the plate, same as a stud. Sort of like you were going to pull an insert out.
NEVER EVER EVER run a bolt into aluminum , bottom it out and then put MORE torque on it. EVER. You are hurting the holding capabilities of the thread, trying to push the fastener out. Finger tight only similar to a stud approach. Another is people torque that 1/4 stud/nut or bolt as though they are fastening a main cap bolt, over tighten, overstretch, tensile is gone from the fastener and failure follows, not the fasteners fault!
Seen smart people F up lots of stuff over the 50 years of being in and around the auto business. Never surprised at some of the results.
Look up the tensile strength for 356 alum and the calcs for holding capacity of a 1/4 thread... If you F it up, with good threads/fasteners (even grade 5 stuff), it's not the equipment!
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MidnightSwinger
Well-Known Member
The amount of times I’ve pulled a motor/trans combo using a seatbelt from pick n pull would make y’all cry. Holy ****.
an oil soaked questionable condition seat belt with two half hitches to hold the devil and the sketchasaurous loaner cherry picker.
make it snappy, there's modelo's in the cooler out in the parking lot!
A buddy of mine designed and patented this engine lifting plate. It's pretty handy.
Summit:
Moroso 62675
Jegs:
https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/62675/10002/-1
Summit:
Moroso 62675
Jegs:
https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/62675/10002/-1
missing linc
Loose nut behind the wheel
Dang, that thing's pretty sweet!
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Used an old belt to pull a 440/727...... but at least I used a 3" perfectly good expired race set shoulder belt.
I ain't crazy!
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