Mech fan suggestions…..

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In light of the hot weekend coming, which will be perfect for testing, I'm doing just the following to see if each little change contributes enough so that as a whole it does the job. 1) I'm putting a 12" pusher fan back on the front, to help overall but especially at lights when the mech fan rpms goes down. 2) Going to use high 100 octane gas to help it run cooler. 3) Going to take a couple degrees of timing out. Hopefully with these three changes as a whole this will resolve the issue. If it doesn't, then it's scorched earth in the spring and starting over from the bottom up with a custom sized set up. I appreciate everyone's input and recommendations, I will run every one of them down and figure out the best way to resolve this.
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Here's the one I am gonna put on Vixen next.
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That motor will work with a fan clutch.
Water pump flange is same as stock 383 car.

Your clearance problem is from the radiator sitting too far back, aluminum pulley thickness (not much).

If you are running stock Trans mount, the motor probably isn’t shifted too far forward.
 
Scody, sounds like a great set up, wish I had the room to run something like that, but I’m running this thin fan cause lol…I can’t fit anything else in there.

MV, running a shroud.

set up I have now with griffin rad and this fan is ok if the day it’s hot, but when it is hot I’m shutting it down due to heat after a short while.

let me ask, would I be better off running a 6blade 19”, or a 7 blade 18 or 17”?

is there a company or shop that builds custom fans?

that hemi aint any longer than a 440 , there is enough room if u get it right . ditch the flex fan .
ur engine bay should be the same as my 68 barracuda ------
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That motor will work with a fan clutch.
Water pump flange is same as stock 383 car.

Your clearance problem is from the radiator sitting too far back, aluminum pulley thickness (not much).

If you are running stock Trans mount, the motor probably isn’t shifted too far forward.

I definitely no question do not have room for a clutch fan. The radiator sit right up against the cross support and cannot be moved forward..... not without cutting or modifying the cross support. The one pic where there is no fan is with my older March pulley set up, but the pic next to it shows where I moved back to the stock OEM bracket system and V-belts to create more room - cannot get any thinner with the pullies.

I'm running one of Denny's HDK front suspensions which actually locates the motor back about 1" from stock, so there again I think I'm getting everything I can get.
 
that hemi aint any longer than a 440 , there is enough room if u get it right . ditch the flex fan .
ur engine bay should be the same as my 68 barracuda ------View attachment 1715791314

Looks like a great set up. I have 3.5" between the cross support to the flat on the water pump pulley, how many inches thick is your rad/fan set up? Not sure why everyone keeps saying to ditch the flex fan, have stated and pics confirm I'm running a hard blade fan, and it's direct mount - I don't have room for a clutch.....but I agree if I were running a flex or a clutch, they would have been the first to go. I hear what you're saying about motors being the same size, but the tape measure doesn't lie, and what I have to work with total is 3.5" for a complete rad/fan set up.

If this round of small tweeks (puller fan, octane, timing) don't do the job, then in the spring its off to Wizard Cooling for a full custom set up that will fit with what I have to work with. I'm certainly open to ideas around how to create more room - I've considered a custom cross support that will allow me to locate the rad forward, I've looked at kits that will relocate the water pump to create room at the back end, cutting the opening in the cross support larger for more air flow - all options are on the table.
 
Looks like a great set up. I have 3.5" between the cross support to the flat on the water pump pulley, how many inches thick is your rad/fan set up? Not sure why everyone keeps saying to ditch the flex fan, have stated and pics confirm I'm running a hard blade fan, and it's direct mount - I don't have room for a clutch.....but I agree if I were running a flex or a clutch, they would have been the first to go. I hear what you're saying about motors being the same size, but the tape measure doesn't lie, and what I have to work with total is 3.5" for a complete rad/fan set up.

If this round of small tweeks (puller fan, octane, timing) don't do the job, then in the spring its off to Wizard Cooling for a full custom set up that will fit with what I have to work with. I'm certainly open to ideas around how to create more room - I've considered a custom cross support that will allow me to locate the rad forward, I've looked at kits that will relocate the water pump to create room at the back end, cutting the opening in the cross support larger for more air flow - all options are on the table.
mine is 3 1/2'' also , griffin 2 row, w/ 1 1/4'' tubes . cut the mounting brackets off and heli arced 1 1/2'' x 1 1/2'' angles flush with the front , to get that .
 
"mine is 3 1/2'' also , griffin 2 row, w/ 1 1/4'' tubes . cut the mounting brackets off and heli arced 1 1/2'' x 1 1/2'' angles flush with the front , to get that ."

How much did that adjustment gain you in depth? Thanks.
 
"mine is 3 1/2'' also , griffin 2 row, w/ 1 1/4'' tubes . cut the mounting brackets off and heli arced 1 1/2'' x 1 1/2'' angles flush with the front , to get that ."

How much did that adjustment gain you in depth? Thanks.

dont remember but the rad. has to be right up against the cradle , no gaps.
A short fan clutch is mandatory , hayden 2947 i think --------
 
Looks like a great set up. I have 3.5" between the cross support to the flat on the water pump pulley, how many inches thick is your rad/fan set up? Not sure why everyone keeps saying to ditch the flex fan, have stated and pics confirm I'm running a hard blade fan, and it's direct mount - I don't have room for a clutch.....but I agree if I were running a flex or a clutch, they would have been the first to go. I hear what you're saying about motors being the same size, but the tape measure doesn't lie, and what I have to work with total is 3.5" for a complete rad/fan set up.

If this round of small tweeks (puller fan, octane, timing) don't do the job, then in the spring its off to Wizard Cooling for a full custom set up that will fit with what I have to work with. I'm certainly open to ideas around how to create more room - I've considered a custom cross support that will allow me to locate the rad forward, I've looked at kits that will relocate the water pump to create room at the back end, cutting the opening in the cross support larger for more air flow - all options are on the table.
Have you checked the lower hose? It is possible to collapse the lower hose with rpm?
Just covering all the bases
Way cool car!
 
Have you checked the lower hose? It is possible to collapse the lower hose with rpm?
Just covering all the bases
Way cool car!

Thanks! - Never thought of the lower hose, will check it out, but truthfully I think my issue is much bigger - or rather I simply nee more cooling capacity.
 
Thanks! - Never thought of the lower hose, will check it out, but truthfully I think my issue is much bigger - or rather I simply nee more cooling capacity.
Make sure the hose is hot before you check it.
Run it up tp 2500 rpm when you check the hose.
Do a direct drive fan, you will lose 20% fan speed with a clutch set up.
 
Make sure the hose is hot before you check it.
Run it up tp 2500 rpm when you check the hose.
Do a direct drive fan, you will lose 20% fan speed with a clutch set up.

on my car, a direct drive fan is about 7-8 degrees better than a clutch type , altho I`m running the clutch type , my 68 426 hemi came out from the factory w/ a clutch type .
 
Make sure the hose is hot before you check it.
Run it up tp 2500 rpm when you check the hose.
Do a direct drive fan, you will lose 20% fan speed with a clutch set up.

I'm doing direct drive out of necessity, as it's all I can fit, no room for a clutch. I still don't understand why people are saying you need a clutch???? I think the DD set up has better pull and take sup less room.
 
Make sure the hose is hot before you check it.
Run it up tp 2500 rpm when you check the hose.
Do a direct drive fan, you will lose 20% fan speed with a clutch set up.

What am I checking for on the hose, that it continues to flow, or that its not collapsing with rpm?
 
What am I checking for on the hose, that it continues to flow, or that its not collapsing with rpm?
Kent hit the nail on the head.
When hot and you increase rpm to cruz'n speed, or above, you do not want the lower hose to collapse at all as it will shut off coolant flow to the water pump.
 
I'm doing direct drive out of necessity, as it's all I can fit, no room for a clutch. I still don't understand why people are saying you need a clutch???? I think the DD set up has better pull and take sup less room.
For max air flow you can not bet a direct drive fan.
Clutch driven fans were used to increase fuel mileage and reduce noise.
 
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Why do you need a clutch? The clutch will slip/overrun at higher rpms. That's so that at high rpms you don't get a fan blade through the hood...
 
I'm doing direct drive out of necessity, as it's all I can fit, no room for a clutch. I still don't understand why people are saying you need a clutch???? I think the DD set up has better pull and take sup less room.
You didn't read my response, evidently. Bob didn't say you NEEDED a clutch, PERIOD. He said he needed a SHORT clutch for HIS to fit. Understand?
 
You didn't read my response, evidently. Bob didn't say you NEEDED a clutch, PERIOD. He said he needed a SHORT clutch for HIS to fit. Understand?

Of course I read it, but I guess I didn't understand it, so thats on me. End of the day I don't have room for any type of clutch, so I'm continuing down my path to figure things out.

I did drive the car this weekend with the tweeks - dialed back the timing, higher octane, and pusher fan installed, and it was better than usual so thats good. However I don't think it wasn't good enough so that on a really hot day I still won't have issues. I'll likely do a scorched earth approach and have something custom made to really keep the degrees down. Uhg.....
 
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