Mopar 418 build.

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diymirage said:
243 HP at 2896 RPM and climbing to 300 H by 3400RPM, 400 HP by 4627 and 423 HP by redline 3-4-16
idles just fine



(still running BFGs in that video, but it does the same to the N-50s I mentioned earlier)

a few more specs, compression ratio is 9.0 to 1
the intake is a weiand action plus
carburetor is a preform 750 with mechanical secondaries
it does have an A/C compressor hooked up (no lines) and powersteering as well (though I can easily steer it with the throttle

I'm sure Mike massaged the heads and intake some aswell
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Looks like you have headers on it?

What mufflers do you have on it?
 
Yes, I'm running dougs headers and a summit 2.5 inch exhaust kit, with whatever mufflers come with it
 
diymirage said:
That sure looks like the kit I got on there
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Ok, so the raspiness of the idle is coming from the straight through "flowmaster" like mufflers.

A turbo type muffler will give a much different and quieter sound.

This is my 416 with the one size bigger 274-S solid cam, single plane intake ported/matched , open element air cleaner, full TTI exhaust headers/X-pipe/turbo muffler, ported Edelbrock heads.

So in the background of the exhaust you are hearing the mechanical tappets in the vid.

 
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diymirage said:
Not to mention that it will be a whole lot easier/cheaper to pull the heads and have them reworked later on, as money allows, then it would be to adress the rotating assembly
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I agree, he can upgrade the top end later.
The bottom end will be fine.
Hey so why do your pipes smoke as much as your tires? Did you have some kind of intake gasket leak??
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I agree, he can upgrade the top end later.
The bottom end will be fine.
Hey so why do your pipes smoke as much as your tires? Did you have some kind of intake gasket leak??
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I chalked that up to engine break in
I don't think I had 100 miles on it when I took that video
it stopped doing it shortly after
 
H ello everyone. Americal here with a question about ring gap. I have the Scat 418 stroker kit with file to fit rings.What gap should I set them at? It is a 4.080 bore.
 
americal said:
H ello everyone. Americal here with a question about ring gap. I have the Scat 418 stroker kit with file to fit rings.What gap should I set them at? It is a 4.080 bore.
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There should be instructions with the rings. What pistons, forged 2618 or 4032, hypereutectic? Ring manufacture?
 
I found the formula online for Total Seal rings. It came out a little over .018. so I think I will gap them at .019.
 
americal said:
Will stock 72 J heads be ok on mild 418 stroker?
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I built a 416 with j heads of course 2.02's installed. Full roller cam-liftes-rockers. -20 cc dish icon Pistons, air gap, and 750 eddy. It's a beast. The cam is a comp 286. Forged crank with h-beam rods.
Heading to drag strip next month. 73 dart sport 3:91 with a 3000 stall. This my first post. Comments welcome
Any ideas on hp and et. Let me know. Thanks.
 
Wow youre combination sounds killer. You should turn some good times at the drag strip.My build is a lot milder but I know I will be satisfied with it. Right now the heat index here is around 110 so I am kinda on hold for awhile. Good luck at the strip.
 
americal said:
Wow youre combination sounds killer. You should turn some good times at the drag strip.My build is a lot milder but I know I will be satisfied with it. Right now the heat index here is around 110 so I am kinda on hold for awhile. Good luck at the strip.
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Pic of my build. I just joined this forum yesterday. I have no clue what I'm doing so bare with me. I've owned this car since I was 14. My dad and I built it for my first car in the mid 90's. This past spring I thought it was a good time to swap in a new engine. And replace my 318 that replaced the /6. A good friend found the 340 in the woods about ten yrs ago. That had throwed rod at some point. But no block damage so figured it would be a candidate for a stroker. I'd like to say thanks for all the info I found on this site that helped me with the project.

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I finally have everthing for my 418 build.I have the short block together.The only problem is that it is really tight to turn over with a big socket and brakeover bar. I gapped the rings at .019 and thrust bearing is.005 and rod clearance is at .020 on all of them.Any ideas or is this normal?
 
Are the main and rod bearings oiled or dry? Cylinder boar can use a light coat of oil as well, like WD-40, ccr-336, just to help make things glide during assembly.
I have read it "should" only take a few pounds of torque to turn, though the actual number escapes me, I seem to have a number of less than 25ft. lbs. for this but I actually do not remember.

All of the bearing numbers above for clearance seem on the money. How is the crank clearance?
 
I used Comp Cams engine assembly lube on the rod and main journals. It was different than anything I have used before kinda like lithium grease.The crank didn't turn as easily as I thought it would. I installed all the pistons and cylinders with plenty of oil.
 
Ok I took the engine apart this afternoon, I cleaned the block and crank of all the Comp assembly lube. I used Casite Motor Honey I had on the shelf for crank assembly. Crank turns really easy now like it should. The pistons were hard to knock back out though.I gapped the two compression rings to .019.Do the oil rings need to be gapped too? I am going to clean the pistons and rods later next week and recheck everthing. I haven't built an engine in quite some time and I want it to be right but I know it shouldn't be that tight. anyone have any comments?
 
americal said:
Ok I took the engine apart this afternoon, I cleaned the block and crank of all the Comp assembly lube. I used Casite Motor Honey I had on the shelf for crank assembly. Crank turns really easy now like it should. The pistons were hard to knock back out though.I gapped the two compression rings to .019.Do the oil rings need to be gapped too? I am going to clean the pistons and rods later next week and recheck everthing. I haven't built an engine in quite some time and I want it to be right but I know it shouldn't be that tight. anyone have any comments?
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Hello every one.I am putting my 418 stroker kit together.I put my new oil pump and pickup on level with the bottom rails of the block.The only problem is that the pickup hits the bottom of the original oil pan.If I tilt it slightly it clears.Will that be a problem?
 
Bend the pick up to clear the pan. Get the pick up level and within a 1/2 inch of the pans bottom.

The pick up should be installed into the pump very tightly or held in place through a spot weld.
 
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